Walter Shillington writes about products he knows firsthand. His articles focus on healthcare, electronics, watches, and household items.

Review of the Citizen Eco-Drive Brycen Chronograph

Watch collectors strongly favor mechanical timepieces. If you ask us why, we lovingly describe the craftmanship required to accurately measure time using dozens of tiny mechanical gears, a rotor, and—to power it all—a tightly coiled spring.

But there is another reason. Every week I pull a new watch from my collection and strap it around my wrist. And there is nothing more disheartening than picking through a selection of great-looking timepieces, desperately hunting for one with a working battery.

Quartz watches, however, do sell very well. They are light, accurate, inexpensive, and often include cool features that cannot be incorporated into their mechanical brethren.

Today I am taking a close look at a quartz watch that, according to its manufacture, is designed to alleviate the need to replace its battery.

Description

The Citizen Brycen Chronograph is truly an international watch. It was designed in Japan, manufactured in China, and is powered by a capacitor fabricated in Indonesia.

This timepiece weighs in at 75 grams. It is 13.6 millimeters thick and has a circumference of 42 millimeters. This black-faced analog watch features two light gray subdials and a tiny window that displays the day of the month.

The main hands of this timepiece note the hour and minutes and record elapsed seconds when the chronograph is activated. The upper subdial records elapsed minutes. The bottom subdial keeps track of the passing seconds.

Eco-Drive watches collect natural and artificial light and then convert it to the electrical energy required to recharge the timepiece’s power cell.

Specifications

• Manufacturer: Citizen
• Name: Brycen Chronograph
• Model: CA7027-08E
• Crystal type: Mineral
• Clasp type: Buckle
• Display type: Analog
• Case material: Stainless steel
• Case diameter: 42 millimeters
• Case thickness: 13.6 millimeters
• Band: Black leather
• Band width: 21 millimeters
• Dial color: Black with light gray subdials
• Bezel material: Stainless steel
• Bezel function: Stationary; Tachymeter
• Features: Chronograph and day of month
• Movement: Citizen B642N Eco-Drive
• Power cell: Panasonic MT920
• Water resistance: 100 meters (330 feet)

The Manufacturer

This company is trademarked by Citizen Tokei Kabushiki Kaisha of Japan.

Visual Appeal

The Brycen Chronograph is an attractive, if somewhat understated, timepiece. The upper dial is black, with silver studs marking each hour, and includes two circular cut-outs and a small window.

A pair of subdials and a date wheel are mounted to the lower level of this sandwich-style dial. I assume that the remainder of the lower dial consists of tiny solar cells.

The case is composed of stainless steel and topped off by a rather bulbous crystal.

While I like the overall design of this watch, I feel that the effect would have been more striking if the subdials had been colored white rather than gray.

The Eco-Drive System

First introduced by Citizen in 1996, Eco-Drive watches took advantage of several technological advances that resulted in smaller power cells and longer operating times.

Solar cells are mounted beneath a translucent dial. The light captured is then converted to energy and used to power the movement and charge its battery.

According to Citizen, a fully charged power cell store can store enough energy to keep the watch running for six months.

The Movement

This timepiece is equipped with an Eco-Drive B642M movement powered by a Panasonic MT920 rechargeable capacitor.

Power Source

The Citizen Brycen Chronograph requires either natural or artificial light which is collected by a set of solar cells hidden beneath its dial. This light is converted into energy which is used to both power and charge the watch.

It is equipped with a replaceable Panasonic MT920 rechargeable capacitor. The MT920 is a manganese/lithium/titanium cell with a nominal voltage of 1.5v and a capacity of 5.0 mAh.

The Strap

A good quality black leather strap with a stainless-steel buckle nicely matches the case of this chronometer.

Features

The Citizen CA7027-08E features a chronometer and a day of the month function. It is water-resistant for up to 100 meters.

Overall Impression

This is a well-designed timepiece manufactured by a company with an enviable reputation for quality. It is accurate, includes a very effective chronometer, and is fitted with an Eco-Drive system that removes the need for battery replacement. The Citizen CA7027-08E is recommended.

This content is accurate and true to the best of the author’s knowledge and is not meant to substitute for formal and individualized advice from a qualified professional.

© 2021 Walter Shillington

Walter Shillington writes about products he knows firsthand. His articles focus on healthcare, electronics, watches, and household items.

I do most of my shopping at Amazon and AliExpress. They provide good products and work hard to ensure their customers are fully satisfied.

Wish is another website that I sometimes visit. While not my favorite eCommerce site, Wish's vendors offer a variety of unique and interesting items. They even sell replica watches.

Most internet stores avoid selling replicas because these watches are produced without regard to copyright laws. The factories that manufacture them steal both the originating company's design and their branding information. These timepieces are of lower quality than the original and, when they fail, the company whose name is featured on the watch is the one whose reputation suffers.

Replica watches, however, are popular. Because of this, I sometimes tear one apart to determine its strengths and weaknesses. Today I am taking a close look at a replica of the Seagull 1963 Airforce Watch.

History

In 1961 the Tianjin Watch Factory was assigned to manufacture the first Chinese aviation watch for the People's Liberation Army's Air Force. Two years later, the factory completed and delivered 1400 of these timepieces.

The Seagull ST1901 mechanical movement was utilized to power these chronographs.

Lately, the Tianjin Watch Factory has begun to manufacture an official remake of this watch. It is equipped with the same hand-wound movement that powered the original.

However, the replica described below is not the official authorized version, was not manufactured by the Tianjin Watch Factory, and does not include a Seagull movement.

Description

This replica, which arrived packed within an attractive cardboard box, weighs in at two ounces. Its case spans 40 millimeters and is 14 millimeters thick. This timepiece is matched with a black PU leather strap.

A Sunon PE60 quartz chronograph movement is encased within what appears to be a stainless-steel case. An acrylic crystal hovers above.

The watch face is white colored with gold markings and a pair of subdials. The hour, minute, and chronograph second indicators are attached to the timepiece's center wheel and pinion. The left subdial is used in conjunction with the chronograph's 60-minute timer. Unfortunately, the right subdial—the movement's 24-hour clock—is mislabeled as a thirty-minute timer.

Specifications

• Manufacturer: Unknown
• Brand: Replica of Seagull 1963 Airforce Watch
• Condition: New
• Place of origin: China
• Gender: Male
• Display: Analog
• Movement: Sunon PE60 quartz chronograph
• Style: Retro
• Features: Chronograph
• Functions: Time of day, timer, 24-hour clock
• Band material: PU leather
• Band width: 20-millimeter
• Dial color: White
• Dial window material: Acrylic
• Case material: Stainless-steel
• Case diameter: 40-millimeter
• Case thickness: 14-millimeter
• Weight: 59 grams (2 ounces)
• Water resistance: 3Bar

Visual Appeal

The original timepiece was quite handsome, and this reproduction proved to be a reasonably faithful copy. The combination of a white face with gold numbering and a pair of subdials provides a clean and functional appearance. I also appreciated the use of blued hands offset by the red chronograph second-hand timer.

This watch is enclosed within a well-designed case and equipped with a black PU leather strap that matches well.

The Case

The case appears to be composed of stainless steel and is equipped with a metal crown and two metal pushbuttons. The caseback is of the screw-on variety and is relatively easy to remove.

The Crystal

This timepiece is fitted with an acrylic crystal. This type of cover can be easily scratched, but I won't complain because the original Seagull 1963 chronograph also featured an acrylic crystal.

The Movement

In an effort to build this watch as inexpensively as possible, the manufacturer substituted the Seagull ST1901 mechanical movement with a Sunon PE60 quartz chronograph movement. A G6A LR921 button battery provides power to this mechanism.

Sunon appears to have acquired a decent reputation as a manufacturer of low-cost quartz movements. Please note, however, that the gears of this movement are composed of plastic. This suggests a lifespan of approximately one year.

The Sunon PE60 can present a visual indication of hours, minutes, and seconds and provide both a 60-second and a 60-minute timer. There are also provisions to accommodate a 24-hour clock and a day-of-the-month indication.

The Strap

My timepiece is fitted with a black PU leather band of decent quality. A NATO-style strap is also available.

Operation

To set the time, pull out the crown and turn it until the hour and minute hands have reached their proper positions.

When the upper pushbutton is pressed, the chronograph begins to count. It will stop when the button is pushed again.

The chronograph hands return to their original position when the bottom pushbutton is depressed.

Chronograph Adjustments

If the chronograph's second counter is not centered correctly at the start position, pull out the crown. Then depress the top pushbutton and hold. This will cause the second counter's hand to turn. When it reaches the twelve o'clock position, remove your finger from the button.

If the chronograph's minute counter is not correctly centered at the start position, pull out the crown. Then depress the bottom pushbutton and hold. This will cause the minute counter's hand to turn. When it reaches the top center position, remove your finger from the button.

The Design

The designers of this replica worked hard to provide a faithful visual copy of the original timepiece while keeping costs to a minimum. This resulted in selecting a quartz movement with outputs that differ from those provided by the Seagull ST1901 movement.

The outputs associated with the second hand and day-of-the-week are not used. The left subdial is utilized as a 60-minute counter instead of a second hand.

The right subdial is used as a 24-hour clock rather than a thirty-minute timer. Because this subdial's indications are numbered from 0-30, it provides a measurement of thirty hours with a length of 48 minutes each. This feature would be helpful to the man who is always complaining that there are not enough hours in the day to get his work done.

Overall Impression

While it was a lot of fun to test this replica, I certainly cannot recommend it. This timepiece is overpriced, features an inaccurately marked 24-hour clock, and lacks a second hand.

If you like the style, I suggest you go to Amazon or AliExpress and check out the official Seagull 1963 Chronograph. This timepiece is reasonably priced, well constructed, and is fitted with an accurate and reliable mechanical movement.

This content is accurate and true to the best of the author’s knowledge and is not meant to substitute for formal and individualized advice from a qualified professional.

© 2021 Walter Shillington

I am a long time freelance writer and poet. I enjoy sharing my advice with the public.

Patek Philippe Watches

Patek Philippe is a luxury watch company founded in 1839. The watch company is considered to be one of the most renowned watch manufacturers in the world.

The Swiss company is known for groundbreaking, unique and rare watches. These timepieces include the Grandmaster Chime 6300A010 which holds the record for the most expensive timepiece in the world and the Patek Philippe Henry Graves Supercomplication which is the world's most expensive pocket watch.

The manufacturer has over ninety-eight patents in watch innovation and has invented over nineteen basic models.

The History of Patek Philippe

The history of the manufacturer is quite prolific. In 1845, the company received a patent for a keyless winding and hand-setting mechanism. The manufacturer also created the world's first Swiss wristwatch. By 1881, the company patented the precision regulator and, in 1902, the double chronograph.

Patek Philippe created the world's first split-second wristwatch in 1923. By 1949, the manufacturer had created the Gyromax balance and their 1986 invention of the secular perpetual calendar with retrograde date indication, which the company also patented.

The manufacturer also holds the record for the most expensive timepiece ever sold in the Asian market, the Star Calibre 2000. The timepiece features more than nineteen complications which include Westminster chimes, minute repeating, and lunar orbit.

Over the many decades, other high valued collections have been made. The company continues to be one of the most regarded and outstanding watchmakers in the world.

The World Time Collection

The world time collection was created in 1939. One of the collection's earliest models is its Ref. 1415. The timepiece features more than twenty-three world time zones. The collection also has more than five timepieces that are ranked among the most expensive in the world.

Nautilus Collection

This particular collection was introduced in 1976. The collection is made up of the most finely crafted steel sports watches in modern-day history. It is one of the most popular collections from the manufacturer. The most highly regarded models include the Ref. 5711 and 5712. Many watch collectors love this great and unique collection of handmade watches.

Patek and Phillippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Collection

The collection is quite alluring and exclusive. It is also among the most celebrated and groundbreaking watch collections ever. The timepieces were originally introduced in 1941. In 2016, Ref. 1518 became the most expensive wristwatch in the world.

The second edition wristwatch Ref 2499 is considered to be one of the most prolific timepieces ever created. A little over two hundred and ninety-nine plus pieces were created from the 1950s until the mid-1980s. It is why the watch collection is so highly valued.

Sky Moon Tourbillon Collection

The Sky Moon Tourbillon collection came about in 2001. The collection features amazing dials and more than eleven complications, including the tourbillon, sky chart, and moon phase. The crafting of some of the timepieces is one for the record books. The watches took over ninety hours to be made. It is why so many watch collectors love the timepieces so much.

Patek and Phillippe Calibre 89

The manufacturer is best known for its most difficult mechanical watch, the Caliber 89, which held the record for the most complicated mechanical watch in 1989. It has more than thirty complications which include the equation of time and a leap year application. It is so rare. The company made only three such watches. It is one of the most expensive watches on earth, with a price tag of five million U.S dollars.

Conclusion

What is your favorite collection from the amazing watchmaker? Have you heard of the company before? Do you own any of the luxury timepieces? Let me know in the comment section below. I look forward to hearing from you.

Comments

Mark Tulin from Palm Springs, California on July 01, 2021:

Great description of an amazing product.

Walter Shillington writes about products he knows firsthand. His articles focus on healthcare, electronics, watches, and household items.

I've always wanted to own a super-luxury watch. Unfortunately, I'm of meager means and, even if I were to mortgage my house, the Patek Phillippe that I so dearly love is far beyond my reach. While some luxury brands do have models within my price range, they are hardly inspiring.

But the search continues. Of the thousands of differently styled timepieces out there, surely there is one that would qualify as a working man's luxury watch.

Today's contender is the Sugess Men's Mechanical Chronograph. It's an attractive timepiece powered by a reliable Seagull ST1901 movement. Can this Chinese windup take on the giants from Switzerland? Read on and find out.

Description

The Sugess chronograph weighs in at 70 grams. It is 12 millimeters thick with a diameter of 40 millimeters.

This model features two black subdials set into a dark-rimmed white face. One of these subdials functions as the second hand. The other, along with the hand utilized in most watches to count seconds, measures elapsed time.

A pair of pushbuttons flank the watch's crown. A quick jab at the top button will either start or stop the timer. The chronograph is reset when the bottom button is depressed.

The watch's synthetic sapphire crystal hovers over the dial, which, along with the watch's Seagull ST1901 movement, is enclosed within a shiny stainless-steel case.

This timepiece comes fitted with a black leather strap.

Specifications

• Brand name: Sugess
• Model: ST1901 Chronograph
• Movement: 21 Jewel Seagull ST1901
• Frequency: 21600Hz
• Movement type: Hand-wound
• Power Reserve: 40 hours
• Complication: Chronograph
• Subdials: Second hand and 30-minute timer
• Crystal: Synthetic sapphire
• Case: 316L stainless steel
• Strap: Black leather with quick release
• Strap width: 20mm
• Buckle: Pin buckle
• Water-resistant: 5ATM (50 Meters)

The Manufacturer

Sugess is trademarked by Shenzhenshi Sugess timepiece development company.

The Tianjin Seagull Watch Group manufactures the movement. This watchmaking company is based in Tianjin, China. Founded in 1955, Seagull is the world's largest manufacturer of mechanical watch movements.

Tianjin Seagull has recently gained substantial expertise in the manufacture of advanced tourbillons, including a multi-axial orbital tourbillon movement.

Packaging

Presentation is the first of six key criteria commonly used to differentiate a super-luxury watch from a typical timepiece.

This watch arrived securely packed within a well-designed cardboard box. While the packaging was nice and included a user's guide, a screwdriver, and a cleaning cloth, luxury watches are always shipped within a wooden presentation case. The Sugess Chronograph earns only six of ten possible points.

Visual Appeal

I like the face of this watch. The two black subdials contrast nicely against a white background.

The strap is lovely, but if Sugess provides a luxury watchband with an alligator skin pattern, it better be composed of genuine alligator hide. I'm deducting one point.

This Seagull ST1901 is one of the most beautiful movements I've ever come across.

I am awarding this timepiece nine points for visual appeal.

Accuracy

Each day my Sugess Chronograph gains eight seconds. While this accuracy level would generally be considered excellent, a super-luxury watch should neither lose nor gain more than five seconds per day. I deducted one point.

However, this timepiece's movement is equipped with a gooseneck mechanism that allows the user to precisely adjust the timing. This enhancement earns Sugess a bonus point.

The total score in this category is ten out of ten.

Complication

A luxury-super watch must be able to perform at least one additional function beyond simply keeping track of the time. Sugess provided an easy-to-use and very effective chronograph. This, by the way, is a feature I have never seen included within a mechanical watch that costs less than five hundred dollars. The Sugess watch has easily earned the full ten points available for this category.

Durability

The Seagull movement, synthetic sapphire crystal, and 316L stainless steel case all pass muster, but I'm deducting a point for this timepiece's strap. It is of good quality, but a stainless-steel band will last far longer than one composed of leather.

Mechanical watches should be cleaned and lubricated every five years. Otherwise, their accuracy will suffer, and eventually, the timepiece will cease to function. I don't believe that anyone would be willing to go to the expense of servicing a watch that can be replaced for less than $250.00. Reluctantly, I am deducting a second point.

The total score for durability is eight.

Exclusivity

This is important. Just ask your wife how she would feel if she attended a party and discovered that another woman was wearing exactly the same outfit that she had carefully picked out for this occasion.

Unfortunately, the Sugess Chronograph is priced at a point where anyone can afford one. Even that snotty teenage boy next door who works at McDonald's! In this category, I cannot award a single point.

Overall Impression

This timepiece is not a luxury-super watch. It managed to gain only 47 points out of 60.

If, however, you are looking for a quality mechanical timepiece that is attractive, accurate, and durable, the Sugess Men's Mechanical Chronograph should be at the top of your list.

© 2021 Walter Shillington

Jonathan is a keen watch enthusiast with a collection that always seems to be one watch short. See more reviews at the Top Watch Picks blog.

The Vostok Amphibia SE

The Vostok Amphibia watches are a range of classic dive watches that were first produced in the USSR in 1967. Their simplicity and reliability meant that they quickly became a stalwart choice for the Russian military, with some even venturing into space and back again during the 1970s. This particular Vostok, (reference number 420B35), is a special edition model that has a number of noteworthy upgrades over the standard Amphibia watches. It is available with a blue or a black dial in a number of different configurations, but all of them retail for less than $150 USD.

Watch Specifications

There are at least six different case designs among the Amphibia range of watches. This model takes on the dimensions of the classic 420 series. It's a nice mid-sized case that is versatile enough to be worn on a variety of wrist sizes. Here are some specifications for the Vostok Amphibia SE.

• Case Size: 39mm case, 15mm thick, 46mm from lug to lug
• Band Size: 18mm
• Movement: Vostok 2415 (automatic)
• Water resistance: 200m of water resistance.
• Crystal: Acrylic

Vostok Dial Design

The design of the 420B35 has a classic vintage look. There are no Arabic numbers and no date complication. Instead, triangles denote the 12, 3, 6 and 9 positions with baton-style indices for the 5-minute markers. The Vostok logo sits below the 12 position with a single line of Russian text above the 6-hour mark. The Vostok Amphibia SE is very easy to read at a glance. The black dial has a hint of metallic shine to it but and a subtle sunburst effect can sometimes be seen, but otherwise there is nothing to distract the viewer.

Date complications are useful, but the absence of a date on this watch is not a problem for me. In fact, I always like to have a no-date watch in my collection. They are easy to pick up and set if they have been lying unused for a few days, especially when you don't need to worry about whether it is set to am or pm. I also enjoy the symmetry of a no-date watch and the fact that there are no numbers on this watch is the simplicity I was looking for at the time.

The face of the Amphibia SE has some noticeable depth due to the sandwich-style dial that is used in this model. If you have never seen a sandwich dial before, it is essentially two dials that are stacked on top of each other. The bottom layer is a lumed circle that is overlaid with a second dial that has stencil-like cutouts for the indices. This dial type is just one of several upgrades over the standard Vostok 420, but unfortunately the lumed dial on the bottom is not much better than a standard Vostok. It works, but not for as long as you might want.

The classic, silver sword-style hands are perfectly suited to the style of this watch and help add to the legibility. Both have applied luminescence. The red second hand matches the red on the bezel, as well as the stitching on the strap, and has a lumed pip to help show the position of the second hand after dark.

Vostok Amphibia Case Design

In a departure from the regular 420 series of Vostok Amphibia watches, this SE version has a brushed stainless steel case. This makes it look more like a tool watch and is less likely to show bumps and scratches compared to the glossy polished look on the standard Amphibia line. It has a screw down crown that is signed with the Vostok logo, and a black and red dive bezel with a lume pip at the 12 o'clock position.

Speaking of the bezel, it's a little stiff, but this watch is new so it may just need some breaking in. Although it is a dive watch bezel, it doesn't click like the bezel on a traditional dive watch. Instead, the Vostok uses friction and an internal retainer spring to make this a silent, uni-directional bezel.

The brushed case, in my opinion, is a big upgrade from the polished stainless steel. It fits in much better with the aesthetic of an all-purpose dive watch. Less ideal, perhaps, is the 18mm lug width. I have never found this to be a particularly good size for my 6.5-inch wrists, preferring 20 or 22mm where I can. However, the included silicone strap flairs out past the lugs to 20mm, with no taper, so you get the illusion of a larger lug to lug width if you use the stock strap. Personally, I find it a little chunky, so my watch spends most of its time on a two-tone Barton Elite Silicone band. It's comfortable, waterproof, and looks at home on the Vostok.

The domed acrylic crystal adds to the vintage feel of this watch with its off-angle distortion. Of course, Acrylic is more prone to picking up scratches when compared to a sapphire or mineral crystal, but I have had no problems with mine so far and I live safe in the knowledge that any scratches I do get can be polished out with a tube of Polywatch. Personally, I find the acrylic dial to be very tactile. I like the feel of it, and the fact that it seems to stay smudge-free for longer.

Vostok Amphibia Movement

This Amphibia SE has Vostock's in-house 2415 automatic movement. It is rated at -20 to +60 seconds per day by the factory. However, I have found the accuracy of mine to be very good. Over a 10-day period I measured this watch at +4 seconds a day. This makes it among the most accurate automatic watches I have ever owned. I know they won't all be this good, but if you were scared by the variance of the factory numbers, just know that there are some good ones out there.

The movement can be hand wound, but it does not hack. When not on your wrist, the 2415 movement is rated to have a power reserve of around 31 hours. That means if you don't wear if for a couple of days, you will have to set the time and wind it before you can use it again. However, like I said above, it is quick and easy to set.

The Vostok's movement is protected by 200m of water resistance. It achieves this feat in a very unique way. The method is well-documented in other places, but essentially the Vostok relies on a two-piece caseback that allows for a larger rubber gasket. When subjected to the kind of pressures you might expect from deep sea diving, the caseback actually compresses further to produce an even stronger seal.

Value for Money: Is it Worth it?

This isn't an easy watch to find, but if you are willing to wait a few weeks, you can order it direct from Russia via meranom.com for around $130 USD. It won't get mistaken for a high-end watch, but I think you still get a lot for your money. If you were to buy a 200m dive watch with a screw down crown and an in-house automatic movement from the likes of Seiko or Citizen, you would easily be looking at paying something closer to $200 or more. Of course, it's not perfect. The lume is pretty weak, the 31-hour standby time is not great, and the acrylic crystal may not appeal to everyone. However, if you are looking for a solid entry-level dive watch, the Vostok Amphibia SE represents good value for money.

Final Thoughts

This is the second Vostok Amphibia I have owned, and it may not be the last because they have a certain charm to them that is hard to resist. They are a quirky watch, and not one you will see on the wrists of too many of your colleagues, but maybe that is why I enjoy wearing the one I do and for the money, they just don't have very many competitors. So, if you want a good looking watch that is also a conversation piece, the Vostok Amphibia could be just what you are looking for.

This content is accurate and true to the best of the author’s knowledge and is not meant to substitute for formal and individualized advice from a qualified professional.

© 2020 Jonathan Wylie

Jonathan is a keen watch enthusiast with a collection that always seems to be one watch short. See more reviews at the Top Watch Picks blog.

The New Seiko 5 Sports Range

The SRPE67 is one of ten new watches that Seiko has added to their 5 Sports lineup in June of 2020. It is part of a modern and bold reimagining of the 5 Sports line that Seiko rebooted in 2019 when it launched a slew of dive watches that paid homage to the venerable SKX collection. This year, they expanded that collection to include these new SRPE models. They are not dive watches, but they do offer a versatility and a style that we have not seen from Seiko for some time. In short, they are a compelling everyday watch. Here's why.

Watch Specifications: Seiko SRPE67

In terms of dimensions, there are not many watches like the SRPE67. The 40mm case make it a great option for my 6.5-inch wrists, but it is versatile enough to wear well on larger wrists too. Below you will find a rundown of the important specs you need to know:

• Case Size: 40mm case, 11.5mm thick, 44.6mm from lug to lug
• Band Size: 20mm
• Movement: Seiko 4R36 automatic movement
• Water resistance: 100m of water resistance.
• Crystal: Hardlex
• Lume: Seiko LumiBrite on hands & indices

Seiko's Dial Design

The flat black dial on the SRPE67 is simple and uncluttered. It has minimal branding and text. The new Seiko 5 logo that sits proudly at the top of the dial is not universally loved by Seiko fans, but I really like it. I think it's a fresh, modern take that still manages to pay homage to the history and heritage of this popular brand.

The hands and indices are outlined in chrome and filled with generous amounts of Seiko's proprietary LumiBrite to aid legibility in low light. The SRPE67 might not be quite as bright as some of Seiko's mid-tier dive watches, but that's mainly in part due to the fact that dive watches tend to have larger indices. Overall, the lume is still leaps and bounds ahead of most competitors in this price range.

The white day/date complication is a hallmark of the Seiko 5 range. Purists often prefer the day/date complication to be the same color as the dial, but I feel that in this case, the white complication on this watch helps give the watch a symmetry and balance that it wouldn't otherwise get from a color matched dial.

The chapter ring around the outside of the dial has white minute markers to further improve legibility. Unfortunately, Seiko does not always have the best reputation for correctly aligning chapter rings with the dial, but on this particular watch, there are no such problems in that department. Just be sure to check for alignment issues if you purchase a watch like this for your own collection.

Overall, the dial is unmistakably a Seiko. The SRPE67 has all the hallmarks you might expect from the 5 Sports line while also tipping its hat to the design cues of watches like the Tudor Black Bay 36. It's classy, yet versatile, and very easy to read at a glance. You could dress it up or down with a strap of your choice. I decided to replace the included black NATO with a TM Bond strap from The Watch Steward, and I think it works really well with the design language of this watch.

Seiko's 40mm Case Design

The case of the SRPE67 is made from 316L stainless steel. The sides sport a high polished exterior, similar to what you would find on the SKX dive watches. However, the top of the lugs and the bezel have a contrasting brushed look that is pleasing to the eye and adds credence to its versatility as an everyday watch. The polished chamfered edge on the side of the bezel adds a flash of elegance to an otherwise low key case design. The finishing is good for a watch in this price range, but not necessarily great. If you catch the watch in the right light, and happen to look close enough, you can see that some of the brushing is a little coarse, but this is a Seiko 5 Sports, and not a Grand Seiko.

The crown is handily flanked by two crown guards that help add some protection from accidental bumps and knocks. It's an unsigned crown, but it's a nice size. It feels perfectly proportioned for this 40mm case and is easy to operate when winding or setting the time. The SRPE67 also has a screw down, see-through case back and boasts drilled lugs to make strap changes easier.

The 4R36 Automatic Movement

All of the watches in the new Seiko 5 Sports range use the same, tried and trusted, 4R36 automatic movement. It has both hacking and hand winding so it is a significant step up from the 7S26 movement found in older Seiko 5 watches. You can also find this movement in Seiko dive watches like the Samurai, Turtle or Monster. It beats at 21,600 beats per minute, so you get six ticks every second from the second hand, and it has a power reserve of around 41 hours when not being worn.

Seiko claim the accuracy of the 4R36 should be between +45 to -35 seconds a day. However, most people will see better accuracy than that. After a week of ownership, my SRPE67 is running at around +6.5 seconds a day, and I am pretty happy with that, especially when the 4R36 is an entry-level movement in the Seiko world.

Are Seiko Watches Good Value for Money?

This Seiko 5 Sports (SRPE67) has a recommended retail price of $275, but most people will pay less. For instance, I got my watch from an authorized Seiko reseller on Amazon for $206. Why the big discount? It's not uncommon to see new Seiko watches sell for less than their sticker price once the supply chain fills up. The price of their watches will often fluctuate, but there are deals to be had if you are patient and look in the right places.

So, is the SRPE67 worth $275? There's no denying you get a lot of watch for your money, but I think that most people will be happier with this watch if they can buy it when the price is closer to $200. The Seiko brand speaks for itself. The modern, automatic movement, coupled with great lume, an attractive design, and very wearable dimensions, make this a great package. However, it is not without competition. There are a plethora of micro brands who are also competing for your money and they may well offer additional perks like a sapphire crystal or better water resistance to try and tempt you in their direction.

Final Thoughts on the SRPE67

Overall, I really like the Seiko SRPE67. I think that this new line of watches are a great addition to the Seiko 5 Sports catalog, not least because they offer very appealing mid-size dimensions. The SRPE67 fits my wrist as well as any watch I have ever owned, and I could easily see myself getting another color in the future for that very reason. If you can find one at the right price, there is a lot of value in this watch, and if looked after properly, it will last you for years to come.

This content is accurate and true to the best of the author’s knowledge and is not meant to substitute for formal and individualized advice from a qualified professional.

© 2020 Jonathan Wylie

Comments

Jonathan Wylie (author) from Iowa, USA on September 01, 2020:

Thanks for taking the time to read this Danny.

Danny from India on September 01, 2020:

Seiko watches are very durable and have an array of features. This watch also looks rugged. Thanks for the review, Jonathan.

Jonathan is a keen watch enthusiast with a collection that always seems to be one watch short. See more reviews at the Top Watch Picks blog.

One Watch to Rule Them All

My first watch was a Casio. I don’t remember how old I was when I got it, or even what model it was, but my first watch was definitely a Casio. I’ve worn Casios on and off for most of my life, but none have connected with me more than the one I am wearing right now, the G-Shock GWM5610. It might not look like anything special, but this little thing is packed with history, (and technology), and that checks a lot of boxes for me. Here’s why.

The Classic G-Shock Square Design

In terms of how this watch looks, you can't get much more classic than this. The very first G-Shock, the DW5000C, was launched in 1983. It launched an entire sub-culture of watches that now boasts sales of over 100 million units. The GWM5610 has a lot in common with the original DW5000C. It has a similar shape, size and weight, but with some modern updates that still attract buyers to this day.

The 5610 is part of a collection of watches that Casio fans affectionately refer to as squares, because of the shape of the case. The squares are in fact octagonal, but once the moniker gathered pace, it stuck for generations. Today, it is an instantly recognizable shape that has become a hallmark of the G-Shock brand. They are available at a number of different price points and a variety of styles.

With dimensions of 46.7mm (H) x 43.2mm (W) x 12.7mm (D), the GWM5610 wears really well on almost all wrist sizes. Mine are on the small side, around 6.5-inches, but the size and shape of this watch sit really well on my wrist and, when it needs to, it will easily tuck under a shirt sleeve. The 5610 is not a big, chunky G-Shock. It has presence, but if you have never seen one before, it is not as big as you might think. It is comparable in size to an Apple Watch. Best of all, the GWM5610 weighs only 51.7g, (1.8 oz), so you barely notice that you are wearing it.

A Brief History of G-Shock Watches

Notable Features of the GWM5610

The two headline features of the GWM5610 are Tough Solar and Multi Band 6. Tough Solar is Casio's solar charging system that converts sunlight, or indoor light, into energy that can be used to power a rechargeable battery. This means far fewer battery changes than you would expect in a typical digital watch. Although it does not come with a guarantee for how long it will last, most users see ten years or more before the rechargeable battery needs replacing.

Multi Band 6 is Casio's atomic time sync technology. The 6 refers to the six transmission towers that are located in Japan, North America, UK, Europe and China. If you are in range of one of these towers, the GWM5610 will receive that time signal and adjust the time and date to ensure that it is always displaying the correct time. The watch looks for these signals each night and will even adjust for daylight savings time so you don't have to.

Like all G-Shocks, the GWM5610 is shock resistant. The case is designed to withstand numerous drops from any direction, and it's tougher than you might think. Take a look on YouTube for "G-Shock Torture Tests" and you will see what I mean. The 5610 is also water resistant to 200 meters so you will have no trouble using it while swimming or doing chores outside. Other notable features include:

• Full Auto LED Backlight
• World Time (31 time zones)
• Stopwatch function - 1/100 sec. - 24 hours
• Countdown Timer - 1/1 min. - 24 hours
• 5 daily alarms
• Automatic calendar with Date, Day and Month to 2099
• 12/24-hour timekeeping

In-Depth Review of the G-Shock GWM5610

Is the GWM5610 Good Value for Money?

The GWM5610 has a retail price of $140, but you can find it for much less on Amazon. To some, that may seem like a lot for a watch that looks like it was found in an 80s time capsule, but given everything that this watch can do, and the abuse that it can take, the price begins to look a lot more appealling. There are no maintenance costs and no need to set the time for as long as you own the watch. It is perhaps the ultimate grab and go watch because it is always ready when you need it, and for that alone, I think it is well worth the $85-90 that this watch usually sells for.

If you like the style and can live without the Tough Solar and Multi Band 6, you can save some money with the similarly styled G-Shock DW5600. It is about half the price of the 5610. Alternatively, if you prefer a dressier look, you can upgrade to the GMW-B5000. It comes with Tough Solar and Multi Band 6. It also has essentially the same design, but it comes in a shiny, stainless steel case and usually sells for around $400. That's why I think the GWM5610 is the sweet spot here. It has the features you want at a price that most people can afford.

Final Thoughts

Ever since I stopped wearing an Apple Watch, I’ve worn a variety of different watches as part of a rotation. I’ve had dive watches, tool watches, dress watches and sports watches. I learned a lot about watches, and as my style evolved I learned more about what I liked in a watch. Some of those watches were sold and used to purchase others, but of all the watches in my rotation, the one that I kept coming back to was the GWM5610.

It’s reliable, comfortable, and easy to read. I can wear it to the office, while working out, or when I’m running errands because this watch has a versatility that few others can match. Collectors like to have a variety of watches in their collection, but for everyone else, this might just be the only watch you ever need.

© 2020 Jonathan Wylie

GreenMind publishes authoritative and detailed guides to the things you're curious about.

Classic Watches for Older Men

Your wristwatch is one of the most visible elements of your style, and one of those fashion choices by which people, for better or worse, will judge you. Older men like me can make a clean, clear statement simply by choosing the right watch—and we can confound expectations by not being too conservative. This article is not about Rolex "investments"—it's about affordable, handsome, functional style statements for the older man.

Virtually all wristwatches can tell time, so this guide is focused more on the impact and message of your new watch than the precision of its movement. In this article, we're focused on the look.

1. Michael Kors Men's Slim Runway Quartz Watch

As an older man myself, I am positively fired up about this piece by Michael Kors. It manages to be both classic and cool, one of the hardest tricks to pull off. The stone-cold black metal presentation goes with the steel-gray touches in my hair, and the monochrome design radiates confidence and, above all, decisiveness. Basically this watch just looks like it was made for me, and for all older men.

Michael Kors has the touch, in my opinion. Nearly everything he touches is something you want in your closet, from sleek blazers to timepieces and other accessories. Those of us who remember him from his Project Runway days know that he is a highly discerning designer with a take-no-prisoners approach to style.

The Basics:

• Imported
• 2 Year International Warranty
• Slim Runway Black IP Three-Hand Watch
• Japanese-quartz movement
• Water resistant to 50m

From the brand: "The Michael Kors Slim Runway watch is polished perfection. A classic three-link bracelet and monochromatic sunray dial with stick indexes add up to a wear-with-everything timepiece that dresses up and down with ease."

2. Timex Men's Weekender Watch

A Timex Weekender is, in my opinion, both reliably old-fashioned and cool as hell. The watch just says "confident man," and combined with a little age and a touch of gray, it's a guaranteed win.

You can't always wear a dark, serious piece that goes with your best suit -- when you're out on a sunny Saturday, or walking in a crisp fall forest, a Timex Weekender is simply the watch you need to have on your wrist. It's definitely not for kids, which in my opinion makes it even better.

The Basics:

• Imported
• Brown Genuine Leather Slip Thru Strap
• Round Cream Dial
• Full Arabic Numerals
• 24 Hour Military Time
• Indiglo Light Up Watch Dial
• Water resistant to 30 meter (100 feet)

From the brand: "The Weekender collection is all about versatility. Easily switch it up with interchangeable slip-thru and quick-release straps. From leather to fabric and with a wide selection of colors to choose from, you’ve got options."

3. Fossil Men's Grant Quartz Stainless Steel and Leather Chronograph

I love the weight and authority that this Fossil watch brings to an older man's wrist. While the Michael Kors piece is dark and serious, and the Weekender is built for a weekend in the country, this beautiful Fossil wrist watch is made for more casual moments when you nonetheless want to impress. This watch also has an impressive range of features, more than the previous two.

This is made for the man who appreciates a watch that can do a little more than you might expect: it has stopwatch functionality, three separate dials to track hours, minutes and seconds; a timer; and 24 hour display.

The Basics:

• Quartz movement with luminous 3-hand analog display
• Mineral crystal face
• Imported
• Round blue plated stainless steel case with silver top ring
• Blue dial and Roman numerals
• Brown leather band with buckle closure
• Multifunction watch with stopwatch functionality; three separate dials to track hours, minutes and seconds; timer; 24 hour
• Water resistant to 165 feet

4. Timex Men's Easy Reader Date Leather Strap Watch

I have included this watch because I think there needs to be one for older men who are, you know, a little older. I can still read without glasses for the most part, but there are times when I need to get up close on the smaller print. This sturdy, worthy Timex has large numerals that don't look tragically LARGE—the piece is still stylish.

If you're looking for a watch for an older man that will be kind to his aging eyes, but also sharp and stylish, then Timex Easy Readers are an excellent choice. They're convenient and age-appropriate, in the best way.

The Basics:

• Made in USA or Imported
• Easy to Read White Dial with Full Arabic Numerals
• Black Genuine Leather Strap
• Date Window
• Indiglo Light Up Watch Dial
• Water resistant to 99 feet (30 Meter)

From the brand: "True to its name, easy-to-read numbers are balanced with the clean dial design. When it comes to a well-made watch, every detail matters. The all-metal case and mineral glass lens offer strength and durability. The revolutionary Indiglo back-light technology changed how the world told time in the dark."

Timex Was a Rebel Company?

It may seem hard to picture, but according to Timex the brand now synonymous with "solid choice" was once on the cutting edge of timepiece style. The venerable company was established in 1854, under the name "the Waterbury Clock Company." Timex was among the first watchmakers to use metal instead of wood, reflecting the all-encompassing influence of what historians sometimes refer to as the Second Industrial Revolution, when automation and interchangeable metal parts changed much more than just the way watches were made. Timex watches were also smaller and more accurate, thanks undoubtedly to the mechanized assembly and precision metal gears.

According to the Timex website, the company can even claim influence in the rise of the automobile assembly line adopted by Henry Ford to revolutionize his industry. The more you look at Timex, the more you see a trend-setting brand that has literally been there from the beginning of modern watch-making.

The first Timex wristwatch was simply its smallest model of clock, given two metal posts and a leather band to be worn on the wrist.

5. Invicta Men's 8928OB Pro Diver Gold Stainless Automatic Watch

This is the last watch I'll discuss here, and it stands out for its flashy, gold-and-stainless presentation. It's also a diver watch, which might seem a little pretentious on an older man. Unless, of course, that older man is actually a diver, or could pass for one.

For the man who can pull off a fairly flashy piece of wrist steel, this watch is just about perfect. For the rest of us, one of the other watches in this guide are probably a smarter choice. You be the guide, and as the kids who almost certainly will not be wearing a watch with this heft like to say, "you do you."

The Basics:

• Corrugated unidirectional bezel
• Luminous hands/markers
• Magnified date window at 3 o'clock
• Gold-plated stainless steel case with mineral dial window
• Water resistant to 200 m (660 ft)

What's the Difference Between a Chronometer and a Chronograph?

In simple terms, the difference is this:

A "chronometer" is a watch with the highest possible standard of precision. It's a coveted designation that's withheld for watches that have passed the very stringent tests conducted by the Swiss Official Chronometer Control (COSC). No quartz-movement watches can earn the "chronometer" imprimatur—only automatic and mechanical watches can qualify.

A "chronograph" is essentially just a timepiece that can be used as a stopwatch, with no designation of quality or rigorous testing. If your phone can serve as a stopwatch, then technically it too is a chronograph.

So What About That Rolex?

Rolex is, of course, the standard bearer of high-style men's watches. They can easily cost as much as your car, even if your car is a Jaguar, and some models are vanishingly rare. That, of course, is one of the secrets to the Rolex mystique, as well as the price-point: the company tightly controls the supply of its product, which serves to drive up the price.

But there's more to Rolex than just a keen understanding of supply-side economics.The watches themselves are the product of genuinely high-quality craftmanship, and the design of a Rolex shows foresight and an appreciation of classic style. But is that enough to make a Rolex watch, which is after all simply a means to tell tell time, an investment-level possession? There's literally no answer to that. If the world believes that a Rolex is precious, then a Rolex is precious. Sometimes it's truly that simple.

More Great Articles About Men's Style

• Designer Fragrance Samplers for Men
  You can get sample-size designer cologne for men for a fraction of the cost.
• Things You Need To Know About Watches - AskMen
  Chronometer - How to buy a watch

Comments

JC Scull from Gainesville, Florida on March 07, 2020:

I enjoy reading about watches and have a few quality time pieces. Excellent article.

Angelladywriter on October 14, 2019:

Very interesting subject.

Walter Shillington is an avid collector of mechanical watches. His reviews focus on inexpensive but often intriguing Chinese timepieces.

Watch collecting tends to be an expensive hobby. To satisfy my appetite without forcing myself into bankruptcy, I joined a subscription service that sent me a new, deeply discounted timepiece every month.

After a year, I’d increased my collection significantly and decided to cancel my membership with Watch Gang. An J. Brackett Navigli automatic was my final purchase.

Description

The J Brackett Navigli weighs in at 5.16 ounces. It is 13 millimeters thick with a diameter of 43 millimeters.

A brushed stainless-steel case encloses a Seiko Nh35a automatic movement. Water resistance is rated at 5ATM.

This timepiece’s black colored dial is engraved with a relatively conservative pattern and features shiny silver studs at each hour position. Decent quality luminous paint has been dabbed onto the watch’s silver-colored hands, and a tiny cut-out at the three o’clock position allows a view of the date.

This watch’s caseback features a window, through which the movement can be seen. A quality stainless-steel strap is included.

Specifications

• Brand: J Brackett
• Model: Automatic
• Condition: New
• Place of origin: Designed in the US and manufactured in China
• Gender: Male
• Display: Analog
• Movement: Seiko NH35A automatic with date feature
• Style: Dress
• Features: Date indicator
• Band material: 316L stainless steel with hidden buckle
• Band color: Silver
• Bandwidth: 22 millimeters
• Dial color: Black with silver studs
• Dial window material: Mineral glass
• Case material: 316L Stainless-steel
• Case diameter: 43 millimeters
• Case thickness: 13 millimeters
• Weight: 146 grams (5.16 ounces)
• Water resistance: 5ATM

The Manufacturer

J. Brackett is a small company that sells variations of two watch models. The Camden is equipped with a Ronda quartz movement, and the Navigli is powered by a Seiko automatic NH35A.

Little is known about this company. J. Brackett is not trademarked, and I have been unable to locate their head office. I assume that they are based in the United States and import their watches from China.

J. Brackett timepieces can be purchased online at their website. They are also available at several web-based stores such as eBay. The cost of a Camden quartz varies between $50 and $140, and their Navigli automatic is priced in the $300 range.

Visual Appeal

The Navigli exudes an aura of conservative competence, which fits in well with a wide variety of clothing styles.

Its simple dial features an easy to read design and includes a date window large enough to determine the day of the month quickly.

For those of us fascinated by whirling timing wheels, this watch’s movement can be examined through an observation window which pierces the caseback.

I was especially impressed by this timepiece’s strap, which is composed of stainless steel and includes a buckle that is virtually undetectable when fastened. It is one of the most comfortable bands I have come across.

Durability

Both the case and strap of this watch are composed of 316L stainless steel, which provides excellent resistance against rust.

The strap is comfortable and well constructed. Its nifty fold-over buckle is unnoticeable when engaged, fitting almost seamlessly into the overall band.

J Brackett fitted a quality Seiko NH35A automatic movement into this watch. It contains 24 jewels and oscillates at 21,600bpm. The movement is hackable, which means that the second hand can be stopped by pulling out the timepiece’s crown. This feature is useful when setting the watch.

With water resistance rated at 5ATM, the Navigli can be worn during light swimming but not while diving or snorkeling.

Accuracy

The Seiko NH35A movement’s accuracy range is within -20~+40 seconds per day under normal conditions. During my test, the Navigli gained an average of 23 seconds per day, and power reserve worked out to 44 hours.

Overall Assessment

The J Brackett Navigli is a well built and capable automatic. Unfortunately, aside from its high-quality strap, there is nothing about this timepiece that separates it from a myriad of competitors. Most potential purchasers will put it on their shortlist, and then move on to a watch they find more appealing.

Accuracy is an important consideration when purchasing a mechanical watch. The following poll is designed to discover the precision expected by my readers when purchasing a $300 timepiece.

This content is accurate and true to the best of the author’s knowledge and is not meant to substitute for formal and individualized advice from a qualified professional.

© 2019 Walter Shillington

Comments

Walter Shillington (author) from Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada on July 03, 2019:

I just slipped the watch on to refresh my memory. Grab one section of the band (above the buckle) between thumb and forefinger, pulling. One side of the buckle will open. Then stick the end of a fingernail between the buckle and the unopened piece of the band above it, levering it open. If your fingernails are too short, pull this section with your thumb and forefinger again.

Walter Shillington is an avid collector of mechanical watches. His reviews focus on inexpensive but often intriguing Chinese timepieces.

Whenever I buy a new watch, I scan through the internet, searching for timepieces that look great and are reasonably priced. Product reviews are then scrutinized to determine accuracy and quality. I also check for interesting features.

This year I purchased several watches in the 20-dollar range. You don’t expect much in cases such as this, but sometimes you are pleasantly surprised.

Description

The Sewor automatic weighs in at 58 grams and, with a diameter of 39 millimeters, is smaller than most of my other watches. This timepiece is 14.5 millimeters thick. A Chinese manufactured automatic movement is fitted into a gold-colored, stainless-steel case.

The caseback includes an observation window and the watch’s crystal is composed of a type of mineral glass referred to as Hardex. Hours are marked by either studs or Roman numerals, and the pointers are coated with mediocre quality luminous paint. A sturdy brown leather strap is attached to the watch head.

Specifications

• Brand: Sewor
• Model: Automatic
• Condition: New
• Place of origin: China
• Gender: Male
• Display: Analog
• Movement: Asian automatic with date feature
• Style: Dress
• Features: Date indicator
• Band material: PU leather
• Band color: Brown
• Band width: 20 millimeters
• Dial color: Silver and white
• Dial window material: Hardex
• Case material: Stainless-steel
• Case diameter: 39 millimeters
• Case thickness: 14.5 millimeters
• Weight: 58 grams (2.06 ounces)
• Water resistance: Not rated

The Manufacturer

Sewor was trademarked in 2016 by Sisi Huang of Guangzhou, Guangdong, China. This company markets an impressive variety of inexpensive mechanical timepieces.

Visual Appeal

A well-designed dial, crocodile-patterned strap, and gold case evoke an impression of luxury. I especially like the combination of large golden Roman numerals and silver-toned studs which are used to mark each hour. Although I prefer larger watches, I did not experience difficulty reading the time and date.

This watch’s caseback includes a round glass window, allowing its owner to view the movement in operation. While the crocodile patterned strap fits well with the overall design, its silver buckle somewhat spoils the effect.

Durability

20 dollars is a crucial price point for Chinese watch manufacturers. In this range, factories can provide more than just a basic timepiece. Their offerings might include a stainless-steel band, extra functions, or, as in this case, a mechanical movement.

The stainless-steel case is electroplated to provide a shiny gold coloring. It looks great but be aware that wear and tear will eventually degrade the coating, revealing the stainless steel beneath.

An automatic movement is used to power this timepiece. Time adjustments can be performed smoothly, and a satisfying audible click accompanies manual date changes. The overall mechanism runs well but will probably not enjoy the lifespan of its more expensive brethren.

Most straps used on inexpensive timepieces are composed of PU leather. This substance is formed from inner splits of hide that have been covered with polyurethane. Bands of this variety look good, but their lifespan is very short. This strap responded exceptionally well to my wear and tear tests. While it probably is made from PU leather, I suspect it will survive longer than most bands of this variety.

Accuracy

During my review period, the date window correctly displayed each day of the month.

I tested the accuracy of the Sewer automatic for three days. During this time, it lost an average of 23 seconds every 24 hours. This is considered excellent for a timepiece in the 20-dollar price range. Reserve power worked out to 22 hours.

Overall Assessment

This watch looks great, includes a date feature, and is powered by an automatic movement. It is fitted with a higher-than-average quality PU leather strap. If you are looking for an inexpensive timepiece that will provide decent service, this Sewor automatic is worthy of consideration.

Sewor chose a gold-colored case for this timepiece. The following poll is designed to determine what type of case is preferred by my readers.

Comments

Kjell Ohlsson on March 15, 2020:

great looking watches keep up the good design work

Walter Shillington is an avid collector of mechanical watches. His reviews focus on inexpensive but often intriguing Chinese timepieces.

I’ve purchased several chronographs over the last few years. Not because they were particularly useful—how often do most people require a stopwatch? I bought them because they were trendy, attractive, and crammed with sexy subdials and pushbuttons. And this lack of common sense has benefited companies such as Corgeut, William L. 1985, Guess, and Parnis.

Sadly, I have yet to curb this affliction.

Description

My new watch arrived, enclosed within an attractive and sturdy traveling case.

The WLAC02NRCN is a lightweight, weighing in at 53 grams (1.89 ounces). If the crown is included, its width is 43.5 millimeters. This watch is 13.5 millimeters thick.

Surprising for a timepiece that can be purchased for only $63.00, the William L.’s case is composed of 316L Stainless Steel.

Shiny Arabic numbers, representing the hours, are backdropped by a black dial. Two subdials are used to keep track of elapsed time, and both the minute and hour hands are coated with luminous paint.

William L. fitted a Hattori VD51 quartz movement into this timepiece.

This watch is equipped with a black, crocodile patterned leather strap with a silver buckle.

The WLAC02NRCN is rated 5ATM. It is suitable for light swimming.

Specifications

• Brand: William L. 1985

• Model: WLAC02NRCN

• Condition: New

• Place of Origin: Shenzhen, China

• Gender: Male

• Display: Analog

• Movement: Hattori (Seiko) VD51 quartz

• Style: Chronograph

• Band material: Leather

• Band color: Black

• Bandwidth: 20 mm

• Dial color: Black

• Dial window material: Curved mineral glass with anti-reflective coating

• Case material: 316L Stainless-steel

• Case diameter: 43.5 millimeters (including crown)

• Case thickness: 13.5 millimeters

• Weight: 53 grams (1.89 ounces)

• Water resistance: 5 ATM (Suitable for light swimming)

The Manufacturer

William L. 1985 is the brand name of G & L Watches and Accessories.

Guillaume Laidet launched his first Kickstarter campaign in 2016, eventually producing a line of vintage-inspired quartz watches. Later he returned to Kickstarter in a bid to finance several automatic timepieces.

G & L Watches is based in France. Their timepieces are designed in Paris and then manufactured in Shenzhen, China.

Visual Appeal

When it comes to styling, this timepiece covers all the bases. A brushed stainless-steel case is sandwiched between a shiny bezel and caseback. Bright silver numbers contrast well against the black colored dial.

Two subdials display elapsed time. Although I prefer this system, those that are serious about their chronographs will favor using the traditional second hand as part of the stopwatch function.

A flat mineral glass crystal would be less susceptible to scratches, but I do enjoy the effect of light reflecting against this crystal’s curved surface.

The black, crocodile patterned strap goes well with the overall styling of this watch.

Durability

A Hattori VD51 quartz movement is protected by a 316L grade Stainless-steel case. This material is robust and highly resistant to corrosion.

The William L. 1985’s crystal is dome-shaped and composed of anti-reflective mineral glass. Mineral glass is very hard, promoting resistant to scratching.

Seiko manufactured movements have earned a reputation for excellence. This watch’s crown and pushbuttons work correctly, and its hands adjust easily with minimal play. These are the hallmarks of a quality mechanism. According to my research, the VD51 supports a date mechanism. William L. 1984, probably to avoid a cluttered dial, failed to include this feature.

A quality leather band was supplied with this timepiece. I was surprised to find that it was equipped with release bars, enabling the strap to be quickly removed and replaced. Until recently, this system was only available on higher-priced watches.

This timepiece is rated 5 ATM. It can be worn during light swimming, although a watch with this rating is not considered suitable for snorkeling.

Overall Impression

This timepiece is one of my favorites. It works well, feels comfortable, and looks great on my wrist. I was especially impressed by the quality strap that came attached to this timepiece. If you are looking for a good chronograph and don’t want to spend a lot of money, this offering from William L. 1985, should be on your shortlist.

The manufacturer of this watch used a combination of features and quality materials, striving to increase its appeal. The poll below is intended to determine which enhancements are most desired by my readers.

This content is accurate and true to the best of the author’s knowledge and is not meant to substitute for formal and individualized advice from a qualified professional.

© 2019 Walter Shillington

Walter Shillington is an avid collector of mechanical watches. His reviews focus on inexpensive but often intriguing Chinese timepieces.

Occasionally, I will examine offerings from AliExpress, DhGate, and Wish, searching for an intriguing timepiece that won’t set me back a lot of money.

Last month I came across a rectangularly shaped automatic from Sewor. Although attached to a cheap strap, it appeared to be a decent watch. I took the plunge, paying $21.00 to a merchant on AliExpress and waiting patiently for it to arrive.

Description

The Sewor automatic weighs in at 72 grams (2.56 ounces). It is 33 millimeters wide and 45 millimeters from lug to lug. At 14 millimeters, this timepiece is chunkier than many that I have previously reviewed.

This watch’s Chinese-manufactured movement is enclosed within a shiny, gold-colored stainless-steel case. The crystal is composed of glass, and four tiny screws secure the caseback.

Gold colored Roman numerals are superimposed onto a black dial. At the three o’clock position, a small window displays the date.

Sewor equipped this watch with a 24-millimeter-wide PU leather strap.

Specifications

• Brand: Sewor

• Model: 065

• Condition: New

• Place of Origin: China

• Gender: Male

• Display: Analog

• Movement: Chinese-manufactured automatic

• Style: Business

• Band material: PU leather

• Band color: Black

• Bandwidth: 24 mm

• Dial color: Black

• Dial window material: Glass

• Case material: Stainless-steel

• Case diameter: 33 millimeters by 45 millimeters

• Case thickness: 14 millimeters

• Weight: 72 grams (2.56 ounces)

• Water resistance: 3 ATM (Not suitable for swimming)

The Manufacturer

Sewor was trademarked in 2016 by Sisi Huang of Guangzhou, Guangdong, China. This company markets an impressive variety of inexpensive mechanical timepieces.

Visual Appeal

A well-designed dial and rectangular, gold-colored case suggest this Sewor is a far more expensive timepiece that it is. I especially like the use of large golden Roman numerals to mark each hour.

This watch’s caseback includes a round glass window, allowing its owner to view the movement.

While the crocodile patterned strap fits well with the overall design, its silver buckle spoils the effect.

Durability

Twenty-one dollars is a crucial price point for Chinese watch manufacturers. In this range, factories can provide more than just a basic timepiece. Their offerings might include a stainless-steel band, extra functions, or, as in this case, a mechanical movement.

The stainless-steel case is electroplated to provide a shiny gold coloring. It looks great but be aware that, over time, wear and tear will eventually degrade the coating and the silver stainless steel beneath will be revealed.

I especially liked the caseback which is held in place by four tiny screws. Unlike most casebacks, this one can easily be removed and replaced.

An automatic movement is used to power the Sewor 065. Adjustments to the time and date were made smoothly and without difficulties. The overall mechanism runs well but will probably not enjoy the lifespan of its more expensive brethren.

Sewor equipped this watch with a strap composed of PU leather. PU leather is formed from inner splits of hide, which have been covered with polyurethane. While this material appears leather-like, it is not as durable. If you wear this watch every day, plan to replace the strap within a few months.

Accuracy

During my review period, the date window correctly displayed each day of the month.

I tested the accuracy of the Sewer automatic for three days. During this time, it gained an average of one minute every 24 hours. This is considered reasonable for a timepiece in the 20-dollar price range.

Reserve power worked out to 39 hours.

Overall Assessment

This watch looks great, includes a date feature, and is powered by an automatic movement. Provided the purchaser is willing to replace the strap with one of decent quality, the Sewer 065 represents real value. Keep in mind, however, that the lifespan of a timepiece of this type is one to two years.

Watch manufacturers attempt to increase sales by offering features that potential purchasers value. In this case, Sewor provided a date display. The following poll is designed to determine which features my readers prefer.

© 2019 Walter Shillington

Walter Shillington is an avid collector of mechanical watches. His reviews focus on inexpensive but often intriguing Chinese timepieces.

A mechanical watch can usually be found strapped around my wrist. It’s sort of cool to own a timepiece filled with tiny gears, a spring, and a timing wheel, all working together to turn the hands of a watch. This type of timepiece incorporates solid design and finely crafted parts, which, when assembled and correctly adjusted, provide decent accuracy.

I dislike quartz watches. In my opinion, a battery-powered timepiece is more an appliance than a watch and, while they are more precise and may sometimes display flair, these devices lack soul.

My new Komono Winston is an exception to this rule.

Description

The Komono Winston is a lightweight, weighing in at 47 grams (1.67 ounces). It spans 22 millimeters and is 9 millimeters thick.

A case composed of silver-colored brushed metal, a stainless steel caseback, and a mineral glass crystal protects this watch’s Miyota 1L45 quartz movement. The crown protrudes at the four o’clock position.

This watch’s dark blue dial includes minute markings and slim silver studs which denote the hours. Situated at the bottom is a silver-colored subdial.

According to information inscribed onto its caseback, the Winston is water resistant to 3ATM. Also included is the timepiece’s serial number.

The Komono Winston is equipped with a brown leather strap. This band can be quickly and easily removed using two tiny levers.

Specifications

• Brand: Komono

• Model: Winston Subs Blue Cognac

• Condition: New

• Place of Origin: Probably China

• Gender: Male

• Display: Analog

• Movement: Miyota 1L45

• Style: Business/Luxury

• Band material: Leather with brushed silver metal buckle

• Band color: Brown

• Bandwidth: 20 mm

• Dial color: Blue

• Dial window material: Mineral glass

• Case material: Metal

• Case diameter: 42 millimeters

• Case thickness: 9 millimeters

• Weight: 4 grams (1.67 ounces)

• Water resistance: 3ATM (not suitable for swimming)

The Manufacturer

Komono was founded in Belgium in 2009 by Raf Maes and Anton Janssens. In 2012 Komono Bvba applied for a US trademark. It was registered in 2013. I believe that Komono timepieces are designed in Belgium and manufactured in China.

Visual Appeal

A silver brushed-metal case surrounds a blue dial. Depending on how light reflects against it, this dial’s color lightens or darkens. Sometimes it appears to be black. I quite like this effect.

Rather than utilizing a traditional second hand, Komono has employed a subdial to keep track of passing seconds. Both the subdial and crown are situated slightly clockwise to what is traditionally their normal position.

The slim design and light weight add sophistication and comfort.

I particularly like the brown leather strap, which is equipped with a buckle that matches the timepiece’s case.

This watch reeks of luxury and looks great on my wrist.

Durability

Most watches in this price range are encased within 316L grade stainless steel. The Komono’s case is composed of an alloy, which is probably neither as strong nor as rust-resistant. It is, however, very light.

Hidden inside resides a capable Miyota 1L45 quartz movement. This mechanism should provide excellent service for several years.

A scratch-resistant mineral glass crystal protects this timepiece's dial.

The Komono Winston is equipped with a reasonably thick leather strap, which I expect will provide good service. The band can easily be removed and reattached employing small levers, which are attached to its spring bars. This feature is usually reserved for more expensive timepieces.

Overall Impression

I wear this watch a lot, despite my preference for mechanical timepieces. Its offbeat but business-like styling is remarkably attractive, and the Winston is considerably lighter than the automatics I usually strap around my wrist. If you like the design, the Komono Winston is recommended.

Although much of the Komono’s appeal revolves around design, they also utilized an easy-to-remove strap. In the following survey, I am attempting to determine the level of interest in a band of this type.

© 2019 Walter Shillington

Walter Shillington is an avid collector of mechanical watches. His reviews focus on inexpensive but often intriguing Chinese timepieces.

Once a year, I check online, searching for the cheapest mechanical watch available. In this price range, you don’t expect much. These timepieces are always equipped with a throwaway strap, accuracy is laughable, and their lifespan is usually short. Sometimes these watches arrive DOA.

I did get lucky once. I purchased a skeleton watch by Winner that, despite an inadequate strap, was reasonably accurate and looked great. I don’t wear it often, but the timepiece still works well.

This year’s pick is the Sandwood Jushidai mechanical watch, which I purchased at AliExpress for ten dollars.

Description

Like my older Winner, the Sandwood Jushidai is a skeleton watch. It weighs 49 grams (1.73 ounces), has a diameter of 38 millimeters, and is 12 millimeters thick.

This timepiece’s dial and case are composed of gold-colored metal. Both the crystal and part of its caseback are glass, allowing a good view of the inner workings. Luminous paint coats the watch’s hands.

The strap is made from PU leather and equipped with a silver-colored buckle.

This watch’s mechanical, hand-wound movement is labeled Jushidai.

Specifications

• Brand: Sandwood

• Model: Steampunk

• Condition: New

• Place of Origin: China

• Gender: Male

• Display: Analog

• Movement: Jushidai mechanical

• Style: Skeleton

• Band material: PU leather

• Band color: Black

• Bandwidth: 20 mm

• Dial color: Gold

• Dial window material: Glass

• Case material: Metal

• Case diameter: 38 millimeters

• Case thickness: 12 millimeters

• Weight: 49 grams (1.73 ounces)

• Water resistance: Not rated

The Manufacturer

Sandwood is trademarked by the Shenzhen Bluelans Network Technology Co., Ltd. of China. My understanding is that Shenzhen Bluelans is a trading company.

Jushidai is trademarked by the Guangzhou Shifenmiao Watches Co., Ltd. They have offices in Arcadia, California, but are physically located in China. I am unsure if Shifenmiao is another trading company or the manufacturer of this timepiece.

Visual Appeal

An intricate metal dial is well engraved and features a rapidly spinning timing wheel. Hour markings make use of Roman numerals. The Jushidai trademark and name are marked on the dial.

Despite a coating of whiteish luminous paint, the thin, gold-colored hands are not as easy to pick out as I would like.

A shiny, gold-colored case frames two expansive glass crystals. This watch is equipped with an alligator skin patterned, black PU leather strap. While the band matches the timepiece, the inclusion of a silver buckle spoils the effect.

Durability

The case is composed of an alley but appears reasonably sturdy and does not annoy the ear with a tin-like ring when rapped against metal.

While they are probably not of good quality, the crystals have survived my tests unscathed.

The Jushidai movement appears to be a version of the standard Chinese Tongji mechanism. This movement has worked well during my tests and, although I cannot vouch for how long it will continue to do so, I have no immediate concerns.

This timepiece is equipped with a very cheap PU leather strap with an expected lifespan of three months.

Water-resistance is not provided, suggesting this watch should not be worn in the pool.

Accuracy

During a five-day test period, the Sandwood Jushidai gained an average of one minute per day. Although this watch will definitely not be certified by the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres, it is accurate enough to be worn on a daily basis.

I fully wound the watch and checked its power reserve. It continued to keep time for 46 hours. That is an excellent result for a mechanical watch.

Overall Assessment

The Sandwood Jushidai looks good and is reasonably accurate for a watch in this price range. If you are willing to replace its strap with one of better quality, the Jushidai would be a nice little skeleton watch to add to your collection. It should, however, not be considered durable enough to be worn every day.

To assist in my selection of watches to review, I am conducting a poll to determine the price range of timepieces that my readers would consider purchasing. Please fill in the survey below.

© 2019 Walter Shillington

Walter Shillington is an avid collector of mechanical watches. His reviews focus on inexpensive but often intriguing Chinese timepieces.

It’s a tough world out there, and this is especially true for those that manufacture and sell watches. After all, if you own a cellphone, the timepiece strapped around your wrist is not particularly necessary. You wear it because you like the style. Competition is cutthroat in every price category, and, for a watch company to survive, name recognition is the key.

Many of the smaller and more obscure brands work with the watch subscription service, Watch Gang. Profit is minimal because their timepieces are sold at a price far below retail. If, however, their product is appealing, the result will be a healthy uptick in sales.

Today’s test subject is J. Brackett’s Camden watch. My expectations are high because I already own, and really like, one of their automatics.

Description

The Camden weighs in at 53 grams (1.9 ounces). Its diameter reaches 42 millimeters, and it is 10 millimeters thick.

A black dial is marked with indications for hours and minutes. Large white Arabic numbers denote the even hours, and a small round window displays the date. The timepiece’s hands are coated with luminous paint.

The case is composed of shiny 316L stainless steel and, from all appearances, is equipped with antique style wire lugs. In actual fact, clever design work allows attachment of a modern 20-millimeter strap.

A Ronda 505 quartz movement powers this timepiece. It is labeled Swiss parts, suggesting the movement was assembled at Ronda’s factory in Thailand.

This watch has been rated 5ATM and is suitable for shallow swimming.

The Camden is matched to a pressed wool strap backed with leather.

Specifications

• Brand: J. Brackett
• Model: Camden - Black Charcoal
• Condition: New
• Place of Origin: US designed but probably assembled in China
• Gender: Male
• Display: Analog
• Movement: Ronda 505 quartz
• Style: Casual
• Function: Time plus date
• Band material: Leather and pressed wool
• Band color: Black
• Band width: 20 mm
• Dial color: Black
• Dial window material: Hardened mineral crystal
• Case material: 316L stainless-steel
• Case diameter: 42 millimeters
• Case thickness: 10 millimeters
• Weight: 53 grams (1.9 ounces)
• Water resistance: 5 ATM (Shallow swimming but not diving, snorkeling or water sports)

The Manufacturer

J. Brackett is a small company that sells variations of two watch models. The Camden is equipped with a Ronda quartz movement, and the Navigli is powered by a Seiko automatic NH35.

Little is known about this company. J. Brackett is not trademarked, and I have been unable to locate their head office. My assumption is that they are based in the United States and import their watches from China.

J. Brackett timepieces can be purchased online at their website. They are also available at other sites such as eBay. The price of a Camden quartz varies between $50 and $140.

Visual Appeal

This watch features a black dial with large, easy-to-read hour indications. This contrasts well against the shiny stainless-steel case. I particularly like the faux wire lugs and their suggestion of antiquity.

I’m not so enamored by the leather-backed, pressed wool strap. It may be innovative, but I suspect this band will attract dirt and prove difficult to clean.

Durability

The J. Brackett Camden is powered by a genuine Ronda 505 quartz movement. While it is not a Swiss timepiece, the Camden is as close as you’re going to get within this price range.

A 316L stainless-steel case in conjunction with a scratch-resistant, mineral glass crystal protects the inner workings of this watch. 316L stainless steel is highly corrosion-resistant.

The accompanying strap is fabricated from leather-backed, pressed wool. It appears quite sturdy, but, since I have not encountered this type of band before, I cannot comment on its longevity.

Water resistance of 5ATM ensures this timepiece can be used for swimming.

Overall Impression

The Camden is a clean looking watch with a name-brand movement and a well-designed case. It should provide years of yeomen service. J. Brackett’s Camden is recommended.

The following poll is designed to determine what type of movement is preferred by potential purchasers of a watch.

© 2019 Walter Shillington

Walter Shillington is an avid collector of mechanical watches. His reviews focus on inexpensive but often intriguing Chinese timepieces.

Because of how I’ve set my preferences, the timepieces I receive from Watch Gang all conform to a specific pattern. They are uncluttered and fitted to quality leather straps. This month, however, the watch club decided to widen my horizon, sending me a Bernoulli complete with a large rotating bezel and a shiny metal strap. That was fine with me. It was time I tried something different.

Description

The Bernoulli Wayland weighs in at 126 grams (4.46 ounces). Its diameter reaches 47 millimeters, and the watch is 11 millimeters thick. It arrived enclosed within a sturdy cardboard box and strapped around a large white cushion.

This timepiece features a gray dial with lines indicating the minutes, and large, well-defined hour marking. The hands are reminiscent of those found on an antique pocket watch. Both hour markings and hands are heavily coated in luminous paint.

The quartz movement, a Seiko PD21J, is enclosed within an ion-plated metal case, which includes a sturdy crown protector. The dial is shielded by a mineral glass crystal, which is surrounded by a large, rotating bezel.

Bernoulli equipped this timepiece with an ion-plated metal strap.

Specifications

• Brand: Bernoulli

• Model: Wayland

• Condition: New

• Place of Origin: Probably China

• Gender: Male

• Display: Analog

• Movement: Seiko PC21J

• Functions: 12-hour time and rotating bezel

• Band: Ion plated metal with fold-over clasp

• Band width: 20 millimeters

• Dial color: Gray

• Dial window material: Scratch-resistant mineral crystal

• Case material: Ion plated metal

• Case diameter: 47 millimeters (including crown)

• Case thickness: 11 millimeters

• Weight: 126 grams (4.46 ounces)

• Water resistance: 3 ATM (unsuitable for swimming.)

The Manufacturer

There are indications that Bernoulli is based within the United States, but I was unable to pin-point this company’s exact location. At the time this review was being prepared, I discovered that their website, bernoulliwatches.com, was no longer active. A trademark search failed to find a watch manufacturer/importer using this name.

Bernoulli is—or was—an importer of quartz and mechanical watches. My expectation is that these timepieces were designed by the company and manufactured in Guangdong, China. These watches are widely available online. Bernoulli timepieces range in price; the Wayland, for example, sells for $149.50 at most sites. Their automatics tend to be more expensive.

Visual Appeal

Perhaps because I’m fond of pocket watches, I find the Wayland’s antique style hands and easily viewable hour markings to be very attractive.

Bernoulli made heavy use of luminous paint, ensuring this timepiece looks great in the dark. A dot of this paint is also applied to the rotating bezel. This would be useful for measuring elapsed time in darkened conditions.

In my opinion, however, the Wayland’s rather striking dial is overridden by the watch’s large bezel, metal case, and ion-plated strap.

I have recently reviewed the Lige Fashion Automatic Watch. This came equipped with an excellent stainless steel strap. I especially liked the design of this timepiece’s deployment clasp. In comparison, the more expensive Bernoulli’s band appears drab and cheap.

Durability

The Bernoulli Wayland’s case and strap are composed of ion-plated metal. I would have preferred stainless steel due to its superior resistance to corrosion, but this material should ensure a long lifetime.

This watch features an adjustable bezel. It works well, but when rotated, its action is sloppy. Often these bezels rise slightly above the crystal, protecting the mineral glass from damage. Bernoulli chose not to include this safeguard.

A Seiko PC21J movement is utilized to power the Bernoulli Wayland. Seiko has amassed a good reputation, and this mechanism should serve well for several years.

Overall Impression

I really like this watch’s dial and appreciate Bernoulli’s use of a movement manufactured by Seiko. I don’t, however, understand why a timepiece in this price range would fail to use a case and strap composed of stainless steel. When this lack of quality components is coupled with my inability to track down and contact the importer, it is impossible to recommend the Bernoulli Wayland.

Stainless steel components are useful because of their resistance to corrosion. Drawbacks to this material include price and weight. In the following poll, I am attempting to determine my readers' opinion of the use of stainless steel in watches.

© 2018 Walter Shillington

Walter Shillington is an avid collector of mechanical watches. His reviews focus on inexpensive but often intriguing Chinese timepieces.

I subscribe to Watch Gang. Every month they send me a brand new wristwatch to test. My latest timepiece, a Breda 8184B, was produced by an American company called Grand Time. Most of the watches I review are designed in China, and I was looking forward to discovering which styling techniques would be favored by a Texas-based firm.

Description

The Breda 8184B arrived enclosed within a good-quality cardboard box and wrapped around a piece of stiff foam-like material. Accompanying it was a card providing the watch’s serial number and a strict warning to register my new watch.

This timepiece is 12 millimeters thick and 44 millimeters across. Although the Breda 8184B is quite large, it weighs only 68 grams (2.42 ounces). This watch is equipped with a thick brown leather strap.

A simple white dial is broken only by the brand name and marks intended to designate hours and minutes. The main hands are silver and reflective, ensuring their position can be easily detected in low light. The second hand is painted red.

The watch’s case and caseback are composed of stainless steel. Its crystal is made from mineral glass, and Miyota supplied the timepiece’s quartz movement.

Specifications

• Brand: Breda

• Model: 8184B

• Condition: New

• Place of Origin: China but designed in US

• Gender: Male

• Display: Analog

• Movement: Miyota quartz

• Functions: 12-hour time

• Band color: Brown with stainless-steel buckle

• Band width: 20 millimeters

• Dial color: White

• Dial window material: Scratch-resistant mineral crystal

• Case material: Stainless-steel

• Case diameter: 44 millimeters (including crown)

• Case thickness: 12 millimeters

• Weight: 68 grams (2.42 ounces)

• Water resistance: 5 ATM (suitable for light swimming but not snorkeling or water sports.)

The Manufacturer

Breda was launched by Grand Time Corporation in 2009 as a private label brand. Grand Time, which is based in Dallas Texas, also owns JBW (Just Bling Watches).

Breda timepieces are designed in Dallas and, most probably, manufactured in a factory situated in Guangzhou, Guangdong, China. Grand Time has a studio, located in the historic Deep Ellum district of Dallas, which functions as their retail store. Breda watches are also sold online.

Visual Appeal

This watch’s simple white dial, surrounded by a stainless-steel bezel, exudes an impression of casual cheerfulness.

Although lacking luminous paint, the hands attached to this quartz watch reflect light, allowing it to be read under low-light conditions.

A thick and very attractive brown leather strap matches well with the overall design of this timepiece.

Durability

A stainless-steel case and crystal composed of scratch-resistant mineral glass provides decent protection against shock and water ingress. Its 5ATM rating is good enough to allow the wearer to go for a dip in the local swimming pool.

Breda provided this timepiece with a Miyota quartz movement, although, sadly, I could not locate its model number. Miyota, a division of Citizen, enjoys a good reputation.

The included strap is quite thick, but, unlike many leather bands of this size, I did not find it awkward to secure around my wrist.

Overall Impression

The Breda 8184B is a cheerful watch with a decent movement and a quality strap. It is intended for casual rather than business use. If you like its style, this timepiece is worthy of consideration.

The watches I review are generally designed for either business or casual use, the biggest determining factor being the thickness and weight of the timepiece. In the following survey, I am attempting to ascertain which type is more desired by my readers. Please take the time to fill in the poll below.

© 2018 Walter Shillington

Walter Shillington is an avid collector of mechanical watches. His reviews focus on inexpensive but often intriguing Chinese timepieces.

I’m a minimalist at heart. When purchasing a watch, I normally gravitate toward one with a large, easy to read dial. A window displaying the date is the only feature that holds my interest.

This month I decided to try a fancier timepiece. After scanning a selection of low-priced mechanical watches on eBay, Amazon, and Gearbest, I ordered a Lige Fashion Automatic watch.

Description

This watch came enclosed within a cardboard watch box and strapped around a large white pillow. The package included a plastic tag, international guarantee card, polishing rag, and one of the nicest instructions guides I’ve come across.

The Lige fashion automatic weighs in at 152 grams (5.36 ounces). It spans 45 millimeters, when you include the crown, and is 13 millimeters thick.

A flat mineral crystal hovers over a silver dial inscribed with Roman numerals. The window at the 12 o’clock position provides date information. Below that, two subdials display the day of the week and the month. Decent quality luminous paint marks each hour, and a generous coat is applied to the watch’s hands.

At the bottom, a cut-out reveals a rapidly oscillating timing wheel.

The movement, an Asian automatic, is protected by a stainless-steel case. This timepiece’s crown is flanked by two pushbuttons. The top one advances the date, and the bottom adjusts the month. An inset button on the opposite edge of the case is used to advance the day of the week.

A window incorporated into this watch’s caseback, allows the user to view the movement.

Lige equipped this timepiece with a good-quality stainless-steel strap.

Specifications

• Brand: LIGE
• Model: Fashion automatic
• Condition: New
• Place of Origin: China
• Gender: Male
• Display: Analog
• Movement: Asian automatic with complications
• Features: Full calendar and cut-out displaying timing wheel
• Band material: Stainless-steel
• Band color: Silver
• Band width: 20 millimeters
• Clasp type: Fold-over clasp
• Dial color: Silver with Roman numerals
• Dial window material: Scratch resistant mineral glass
• Case material: Stainless-steel
• Case diameter: 45 millimeters, including crown
• Case thickness: 13 millimeters
• Weight: 152 grams (5.36 ounces)
• Water resistance: 30 Meters. (Unsuitable for swimming)

The Manufacturer

Lige timepieces have been available for sale since April of 2016. This brand was trademarked by Zhongshao Huang of Pingxiang City in July of 2017.

Lige watches are manufactured by the Guangzhou Lige Watch Co., Ltd. This company is based in Guangdong, China, and employs between 101 and 200 workers. Although Lige timepieces are sold worldwide, their top three markets are Central America, Western Europe, and Southern Europe.

The Guangzhou Lige Watch Company is a division of the Shenzhen Kaiser international trading company.

Visual Appeal

For this timepiece, Lige promotes a low-key conservative atmosphere despite the multitude of functions and spinning timing wheel. This effect is accomplished by matching a shiny stainless-steel case to a silver dial and silver subdials. For those that prefer a more striking appearance, Lige automatics are available in several different colors.

This watch gains points by including a relatively large date display window. I need not squint to read the date. The subdials are readable but a bit cramped, due to a lack of space. I appreciate the use of large Roman numerals, and the spinning timing wheel adds movement.

In order to minimize contrast, this watch’s crown and pushbuttons are colored to match their case. Lige also chose to include an inset button, which is used to set the day of the week. If the button is poked by a tack or the end of a pen, the subdial’s pointer will advance.

The timepiece’s caseback incorporates a medium-sized window, allowing the user to view the movement. Both the rotor and movement are nicely engraved.

This watch is equipped with a shiny stainless-steel strap.

Durability

A solid stainless-steel case and scratch-resistant, mineral glass crystal offer decent protection. The crown and pushbuttons work properly, although I suspect the rod connecting the date pushbutton to the movement is shorter than ideal. This button must be pushed firmly in order to advance the date.

The movement appears to be of good quality, and I expect it will provide yeoman service for several years. Then, like all mechanical mechanisms, cleaning, and a fresh application of oil will be required.

I like the stainless-steel band. Its nifty fold-over buckle is unnoticeable when engaged, fitting almost seamlessly into the overall strap. This buckle opens easily at the touch of a button.

Accuracy

Over a seven-day test period, the Lige fashion automatic gained an average of six seconds a day. That is an excellent result for a timepiece in this price range.

All three calendar-related functions advance properly.

Overall Assessment

This automatic is a handsome watch with a full calendar and luminosity strong enough for use at night. It is equipped with a comfortable and sturdy stainless-steel strap. The Lige Fashion Automatic is recommended.

The dial of this timepiece is pierced to allow a view of the movement’s timing wheel. I am conducting a survey to determine if my readers like this feature. Please fill in the poll below.

Questions & Answers

Question: I have a Lige without the open back. It appears standard. But is there a clear sticker over the info ( specs of watch ) or is the info printed on the vinyl? I started to peel it off thinking it was there to protect, not serve as the label. Any thoughts?

Answer: The sticker is probably meant to protect the surface of the watch during shipping.

Comments

Walter Shillington (author) from Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada on July 04, 2020:

Hi Harvey,

My Lige automatic still works really well. If yours does not function properly, you should contact your vendor and ask for a refund.

Harvey Rabiner on July 04, 2020:

Absolutely do not buy the Lige automatic eatch. It stores zero energy and will actually die on your wrist if perchance you happen to be reading or watching TV.

Walter Shillington is an avid collector of mechanical watches. His reviews focus on inexpensive but often intriguing Chinese timepieces.

Every month, Watch Gang sends me a new watch. What I receive depends on a combination of my stated preferences and my subscription rate. Normally, I stick to the basic $29.99 monthly payment, and Watch Gang provides me with a decent Japanese, quartz driven timepiece.

The premise behind this contract is that newer and more obscure brands, attempting to make a name for themselves, will ship Watch Gang members a timepiece at far below the normal retail price. This month they sent me a watch manufactured by Evelon of Bloomfield, Michigan.

Description

The diameter of the Evelon Hughes ELE101 is 49 millimeters, and it is 11 millimeters thick. This timepiece weighs 73 grams (2.57 ounces).

A stainless-steel case is matched to a gray dial, which sits beneath a scratch-resistant mineral crystal. Silver studs mark the hours, and luminous paint is applied to each of the watch’s hands. Arabic numbering designates the hour and minute. A tiny round window, situated at the three o’clock position, allows a view of the date.

Evelon fitted a (Seiko) Hattori PC32A quartz movement into this timepiece. The watch’s caseback, which is composed of stainless steel, screws into place and assists in providing a water resistance of 5ATM.

Although my timepiece came equipped with a gray leather strap and dial, a variety of colors are available.

Specifications

• Brand: Evelon
• Model: Hughes ELE101-7
• Condition: New
• Place of Origin: China
• Gender: Male
• Display: Analog
• Movement: Hattori PC32A
• Functions: 12-hour time and date
• Band color: Gray with stainless-steel buckle
• Band width: 22 millimeters
• Dial color: Gray
• Dial window material: Non-glare, scratch-resistant mineral crystal
• Case material: Stainless-steel
• Case diameter: 49 millimeters (including crown)
• Case thickness: 11 millimeters
• Weight: 73 grams (2.57 ounces)
• Water resistance: 5 ATM (suitable for light swimming but not snorkeling or water sports.)

The Manufacturer

Elevon is one of 16 watch brands registered to Resultco Inc. of West Bloomfield, Michigan. This company was incorporated in 2010 and employs approximately 20 workers. Resultco was also incorporated in London, England, in 2017. I have previously reviewed their Morphic M63, which utilizes the same movement as this timepiece.

While Resultco branded timepieces are not particularly well-known, sales are robust. This is due to a technique called virtual inventory. Watch stores and jewelers feature these timepieces on their websites. Purchasers pay the merchant who keeps a percentage of the sale and forwards the remainder to Resultco. This company, in turn, ships the product to their customer. The virtual inventory system is attractive to online merchants because they are neither required to stock these timepieces nor pay shipping or storage.

My assumption is that Elevon watches are designed in the US by Resultco and manufactured at a factory in Guangzhou, Guangdong, China.

Visual Appeal

The Evelon Hughes features a flat mineral glass crystal, which hovers over a silver stud-punctuated dial. Subtle contrast is provided by matching its shiny stainless-steel case with a burnished bezel. While I feel the overall styling is inordinately conservative, this is a matter of individual taste.

This watch is fitted with a leather band, colored to match the timepiece’s dial. It includes a stainless-steel buckle marked "Elevon."

Durability

The Elevon Hughes ELE101 is fitted with a Hattori PC32A. This movement works well and should last for several years. The date indicator changes smoothly with a distinct click, and time can be easily set.

A solid stainless-steel case houses the movement and is capped by a crystal composed of hardened mineral glass.

This watch is equipped with a decent quality leather strap.

Most of the timepieces I review are rated 3 ATM. The Elevon Hughes, with its 5 ATM rating, can be worn while swimming.

Overall Impression

The Evelon Hughes is a well-built watch with decent water resistance. While I am not enamored with its styling, this timepiece would be a good choice for someone who wants a reliable watch without a lot of flash.

Timepieces are designed to attract the attention of specific segments of the population. I have put together a poll intended to pinpoint the styling preferences of my readers. Please take the time to submit your opinion.

© 2018 Walter Shillington

Walter Shillington is an avid collector of mechanical watches. His reviews focus on inexpensive but often intriguing Chinese timepieces.

When it comes to watches, I am fanatical, acquiring at least one every month. To stave off bankruptcy, these purchases are normally limited to interesting but modestly priced timepieces. For my latest birthday, however, I decided to splurge.

I belong to Watch Gang. Each month they dispatch a timepiece that retails for far more than my $30.00 subscription fee. For one month, I upped the payment to $300.00. This was a risky strategy because I had no idea what brand or model Watch Gang would send.

Three weeks later, my brand new Lüm-Tec RR2 arrived.

Description

The watch arrived, packaged in a light-colored wooden box equipped with spring-loaded hinges. With the timepiece removed, the container weighs 13.4 ounces (381 grams). Felt-like material lines its bottom and interior.

Wiegand’s Lüm-Tec RR2 automatic weighs in at 3.24 ounces (92 grams). When you include the crown, this watch spans 47.5mm. It is 11mm thick.

A sapphire crystal hovers over a white face with blue Arabic numbering. The date indicator is located at the three o’clock position.

This timepiece’s Miyota 9015 movement is enclosed within a shiny 316L stainless steel case. Its caseback incorporates a small window, which allows a view of the movement.

A screw-down type crown helps to provide a water resistance rating of 100 meters.

My watch came attached to a thick brown leather strap. This band is equipped with specialized spring bars, which allow easy removal and reattachment of the strap.

The Manufacturer

The Lüm-Tec brand is owned by Weigand Custom Watch, LLC. Weigand is a family-run business based in Mentor, Ohio. They build custom OEM and ODM production and private label watches.

Lüm-Tec is considered Weigand’s showcase brand, demonstrating its capability to produce innovative timepieces of high quality. Generally, this company manufactures watches in limited production runs. My watch, for example, was the 93^rd RR2 manufactured in a series limited to 100 units.

Specifications

• Brand: Lüm-Tec
• Model: RR2
• Condition: New
• Place of Origin: USA
• Gender: Male
• Display: Analog
• Movement: Miyota 9015 automatic
• Features: Day of month, screw-down crown, strong luminosity, and quick-release strap
• Band material: Leather
• Band color: Brown
• Band width: 22 millimeters
• Clasp type: Buckle
• Dial color: White with blue Arabic numbering
• Dial window material: Anti-reflective sapphire
• Case material: 316L Stainless-steel
• Case diameter: 47.5 millimeters, including crown
• Case thickness: 11 millimeters
• Weight: 92 grams (3.24 ounces)
• Water resistance: 100 Meters. Suitable for snorkeling

Visual Appeal

The Lüm-Tec’s shiny stainless-steel case contrasts nicely against the watch’s white dial face, and the use of blue numbering adds a suggestion of crisp cheerfulness. Although I could read the date, a larger window would have been appreciated. I really liked the old-style blued hands with their healthy coating of luminous paint.

This timepiece’s caseback incorporates a window, which allows the user to view the movement. I would have preferred a larger opening but, perhaps, this would have affected watertight integrity.

The sturdy and comfortable brown leather strap goes well with this watch.

Durability

The 316L stainless-steel case incorporates a screw-down crown. This combination provides an excellent defense against corrosion and water ingress, and the anti-reflective coated sapphire crystal further augments this protection.

In order to provide bright and long-lasting luminosity, the hands of this watch received eight coats of Lüm-Tec’s Super-Luminova photoluminescent material. From personal experience, I can attest that this watch is quite readable after seven hours of darkness.

Lüm-Tec matched this timepiece with a Miyota 9015 automatic movement. The 9015 can be wound by hand, and its power reserve, according to specifications, is 42 hours. This movement includes a hacking feature which allows the user to halt the second hand by fully extending the crown.

The included strap is composed of thick leather and should wear well.

Warranty and Customer Service

I noticed that the movement’s rotor would rapidly spin counter-clockwise every time I removed the watch from my wrist. Concerned that the timepiece might be defective, I sent the watch-head back to the manufacturer.

Ten days later, I received a phone call from a technician at Lüm-Tec. She explained that the ball-bearing mounted rotor was free-wheeling, a perfectly normal event. During her tests, however, the technician discovered that the watch was running nine seconds slow. She had adjusted the regulator to the point where the movement now gained a measly three seconds each day. The watch’s seals had also been lubricated.

After researching the Miyota 9015, I concluded that the technician, who is far more of an expert than myself, was correct. The rotor of this movement winds the mainspring only when it swings in a clockwise direction. When it returns, counter-clockwise, the rotor is simply free-wheeling on its ball-bearing.

It is worth noting that, although Lüm-Tec provides only the standard one-year limited warranty, they do offer a free timing adjustment service.

Accuracy

When I first received this watch, it ran three seconds slow. Later tests at the Lüm-Tec repair facility concluded that it lost nine seconds each day. The timepiece was regulated to a point where it gained three seconds. My final tests determined the watch ran six seconds fast.

Why did the repair facility’s accuracy reading differentiate from mine? Most likely, it was due to the difference in temperature between sunny California and chilly Nova Scotia.

When wound fully, I found this timepiece would continue to run for 46 hours.

Overall Impression

The Lüm-Tec RR2 is a great-looking watch that covers all the bases. It is solidly constructed, water-resistant, accurate, and can be easily read in the dark. This timepiece is expensive but should last for many years. The Lüm-Tec RR2 is recommended.

This watch is the first timepiece I’ve reviewed that comes equipped with a quick-release strap. Is this an option that would convince you to purchase a watch? Please fill in the poll below.

© 2018 Walter Shillington

Comments

Eve Hunt on November 09, 2018:

This article is actually a fastidious one it helps new internet people, who are wishing for blogging.

Walter Shillington is an avid collector of mechanical watches. His reviews focus on inexpensive but often intriguing Chinese timepieces.

Although I have little use for a chronograph, shiny timepieces loaded with functions do tend to attract my attention. I feel the same about computers, bikes, and automobiles; pile on the chrome and accessories, and I might pull out my wallet.

My original chronograph was a Benyar BY-5103M. It’s an excellent watch, but the timepiece’s alloy case seemed a bit cheap. I decided to upgrade, and Corgeut appeared to offer the best balance of quality and price.

Description

The Corgeut C02006PYR weighs in at 100 grams (3.55 ounces) and, including the crown, spans 50 millimeters. It is 16.5 millimeters thick.

The watch is housed within a stainless-steel case coated with a flat-black PVD film. Physical vapor deposition (PVD) is characterized by a process in which the material goes from a condensed phase to a vapor phase and then cooled to a thin film. PVD coatings can be harder and more corrosion resistant than those applied by electroplating.

The stainless-steel caseback is marked by six circular indentations, suggesting a specialized tool will be required to open the watch. Specifications note that this timepiece is equipped with a Japanese movement.

The watch’s dial is black with large, easy to read Arabic numbering and appears to be a version of the sandwich design. The hands are whitened with medium quality luminous paint. A window on the right side provides a view of the date, and two circular holes allow the inclusion of subdials.

The bottom subdial is utilized as the timepiece’s second hand. The hand normally reserved for that purpose, and the top subdial are used to keep track of elapsed time.

This watch’s crown is flanked by a pair of pushbuttons. The upper button starts and stops the chronograph. The lower pushbutton is used to reset elapsed time. Date and time are adjusted via the timepiece’s crown.

22-millimeter lugs are utilized to attach a fabric band composed of cloth and leather. Both the strap and buckle are colored black to match the watch’s case.

Corgeut provides many versions of this model with an assortment of differently colored cases, dials, and subdials.

The Manufacturer

Corgeut has been manufacturing timepieces for several years, but it was not until February of 2017, that this company was trademarked by Zhang, Gong Wei of Hubei Province.

While they do not share the same ownership, it is likely that Corgeut and Parnis are closely associated. Their designs are similar, and both companies utilize high-quality components. E-commerce websites that sell one of these brands usually handle both and, quite possibly, they are manufactured in the same factory.

Specifications

Brand: Corgeut

Model: C02006PYR

Condition: New

Place of Origin: China

Gender: Male

Display: Analog

Movement: Japanese quartz

Style: Chronograph

Functions: Date indicator and chronometer

Band material: Woven cloth and leather

Band color: Black

Band width: 22 millimeters tapering to 15.5

Dial color: Black with red subdials and white numbering

Dial window material: Mineral glass

Case material: 316L stainless-steel with PVD coating

Case diameter: 50 millimeters (including crown)

Case thickness: 16.5 millimeters

Weight: 100 grams (3.54 ounces)

Water resistance: 3 ATM (splash resistant only)

Visual Appeal

It comes down to individual taste, but I think it’s a shame to cover a quality stainless-steel case with a flat black coating. Those that do like this effect, however, will appreciate how closely the manufacturer has matched this timepiece’s case, strap, and dial.

Corgeut has created a beautiful dial. The sunken, red-colored subdials convey an impression of quality and precision. They contrast well with the black dial, white numbering, and oblong shaped date window.

The fabric strap is an interesting change of pace, but I do prefer leather.

Durability

The case of this watch is constructed from 316L grade stainless steel. This material provides excellent resistance against corrosion. The case is further protected by a PVD film. A hardened glass crystal shields the dial.

Corgeut has equipped this timepiece with a Japanese quartz movement. Time and date adjust easily and smoothly. The chronograph functions correctly, providing the ability to utilize this device as a stopwatch.

The fabric strap appears to be quite durable. I suspect it might outlast a leather strap of similar thickness.

Like many Chinese manufactured watches, this chronograph’s greatest drawback is water resistance. It is rate 3ATM, which translates to splash-proof only.

Overall Impression

The Corgeut C02006PYR is a well-designed timepiece, and because it is available in a variety of colors, it should appeal to many potential customers. I recommend this watch.

There are many different types of watchbands available. In the following poll, I am attempting to determine which are the most popular. Please take the time to provide your opinion.

© 2018 Walter Shillington

Walter Shillington is an avid collector of mechanical watches. His reviews focus on inexpensive but often intriguing Chinese timepieces.

Lists online denoting the best timepieces generally concentrate on expensive Swiss brands. There is a good reason for this tendency; Swiss watches are well designed, accurate and built to last.

I work a little differently. I consider only timepieces that I have reviewed over the last year, and these inhabit the inexpensive to the medium-priced range. While not the best watches available, these are excellent products and at a price point most people can afford.

Ranking of 2018 Watches

• Best Watch of 2018
• Best Automatic
• Best Mechanical
• Best Value
• Best Replica

Best Watch of 2018: One Eleven CMP0002 Solar Powered Watch

About a year ago I joined Watch Gang. I pay a monthly subscription and every month they send me a new watch. I didn’t think much of the first timepiece I received but the next month they sent the solar-powered CMP0002 manufactured by One Eleven. One Eleven was trademarked by The Fossil Group in 2016.

Description

This watch weighs in at 61 grams (2.15 ounces). It is 42 millimeters across and 10 millimeters thick.

A brushed stainless-steel case is wedged between the bezel and its caseback, both of which are highly polished. Simulated wire lugs and a large crown provide an effect that greatly enhances the appeal of this timepiece.

A black, sandwich-type dial fits beneath a flat sheet of hardened mineral crystal. The bottom layer accommodates an array of photovoltaic solar cells. The upper layer, which rims the outside edge of the dial, is marked with hour and minute indications.

One Eleven deliberately suggests wear and tear by incorporating a distressed dial. Perhaps I am old-fashioned, but I find this technique confusing. Of course, everyone has different tastes. In my opinion, the Itronix GoBook 3 is the coolest laptop ever produced. However, when I enthusiastically introduce this wonderful device to my friends, they laugh and shake their heads in amusement.

The CMP0002 is powered by a Japanese manufactured, solar-powered movement and includes a 22-millimeter band composed of thick, brown leather. The strap is both visually pleasing and comfortable.

Water resistance, at 5ATM, is higher than many competing watch brands. This timepiece is coupled to a Japanese solar-powered movement. The battery, according to the One Eleven, should last for approximately 10 years and, during this time, is expected to maintain at least 70% of its original capability. When adjusting the time, there was noticeable resistance and the pointers’ movement proved consistent. These are traits you would expect in a quality movement.

Overall Impression

Despite my initial confusion with One Eleven’s distressed dial styling technique, I really like this watch. The CMP0002 is well designed, light-weight and extremely durable. This solar-powered timepiece wins the Dunn award for the best overall watch.

Best Automatic: William Gregor BWG30090-203

William Gregor is trademarked by KIN AB of Upplands Vasby, Sweden. This watch is one of my more expensive timepieces but as is often the case, a higher price indicates superior quality.

Description

My new automatic arrived enclosed within a large watch box composed of a flexible plastic-like material.

This William Gregor timepiece features a design that is both traditional and simplistic. Silver studs, positioned atop a black dial, are used as hour markers. At the three o’clock position a larger than normal window displays the date. Silver hands sweep around the dial.

The case and caseback are composed of shiny stainless-steel. Like a Corgeut that I have recently tested, shifting the watch in light will often cause the dial to appear blue. This effect, I assume, is produced by a filter or protective coating applied to the watch’s crystal.

A steel mesh strap came attached to this timepiece. This band is easily adjusted and quite comfortable. A crocodile patterned leather strap of medium quality is also provided.

This watch utilizes a Seiko 24 jewel, NH35A automatic movement. Time can be easily set because the second-hand ceases rotation when the crown is fully extended. Seiko holds a well-earned reputation for quality control.

During a one-week test period, the William Gregor automatic gained an average of sixteen seconds per day. Throughout this period, the date indicator reported accurately. After being removed from my wrist, the watch continued to keep time for an additional thirty-five hours.

While not appropriate for scuba diving, the William Gregor’s water-resistance of 100 meters ensures it can be worn whilst swimming or snorkeling.

Overall Impression

The William Gregor BWG30090-203 automatic is a medium-priced timepiece that is well built, conservatively styled and should function effectively for many years.

Best Mechanical Watch: Unbranded Parnis Mechanical Watch

While this example is unbranded, it is very similar to Parnis’s Classic St3600. It is equipped with a Seagull 6497 movement and priced in the fifty to the one-hundred-dollar range.

Parnis designs their own timepieces and assembles them at their manufacturing facility at Tong De Wei, Guangzhou. The various components are contracted out from companies such as Seagull, Miyota, and Dixmount. Fu Yuan Xin manufacturers their cases.

Description

This pilot watch is quite large, spanning 45.5 millimeters, but weighs only 75 grams (2.66 ounces). It is 11 millimeters thick.

The case is composed of brushed 316L stainless steel. A large onion-shaped crown juts from the watch’s right edge.

This timepiece features a black dial with white indicators and hands. It includes a subdial to keep track of passing seconds. All hands and indicators are coated with a white material that emits a bluish glow in darkness.

Except for a narrow stainless-steel rim, held in place by screws, the entire caseback is composed of hardened mineral glass. This allows a completely unobstructed view of the timepiece’s well engraved Seagull 6497 movement.

This pilot watch is equipped with a thick brown leather strap with white stitching and a brushed stainless steel buckle.

The heart of this timepiece is its Seagull mechanical movement. It is a first-rate version of the ETA 6497 pocket watch movement and should last for many years. During its test period, this watch gained an average of 2.7 seconds per day. This is a level of accuracy expected in far more expensive timepieces.

Reserve power is a respectable 58.5 hours.

Parnis equipped this watch with a decent leather strap. Water resistance, the timepiece’s weakest characteristic, is rated 3ATM.

Overall Impression

If you are searching for a quality mechanical watch at a decent price, this unbranded Parnis and its sibling, the Parnis Classic St3600, are worthy of serious consideration.

Best Value: Benyar BY-5103M Quartz Chronograph

I have reviewed three watches that were worthy of consideration for the Dunn award representing the best value. While they came up short, both the Chenxi Businessman’s Rectangular Watch and Tevis’s Perpetual Datejust Automatic provide excellent value.

The Benyar By-5103M, which is trademarked by Ye Yingbin of Guangdong, China, can be purchased for about $35.

Description

The case of the Benyar chronograph is composed of black painted alloy metal. A crown and two pushbuttons jut from its right edge. The top button starts and stops the chronograph function. The bottom switch resets it to zero.

This watch features a black dial with orange hour and minute indicators. All but one of the hands are colored to match.

A tiny window at the 4:30 position displays the date. The subdial directly above this function serves as a twenty-four-hour clock.

Three subdials are used in conjunction with the chronograph feature. One hand rotates once every hour, and one completes a full cycle every minute. The indicator of the uppermost dial circles every two seconds. If your hand and eye coordination are up to it, you can time an event to within one-tenth of a second!

This watch’s strap is composed of a napped leather; perhaps suede. The band looks great but the fine hair coating its surface tends to pick up oil from your skin. This results in a strap which is darker where it is handled. I consider the effect to be one of building the timepiece’s character. Others will feel the strap is covered with filth.

The Benyar BY-5103M came enclosed within a solid cardboard and plastic presentation box. They also included a tag, guarantee card, polishing cloth, and a professionally produced user’s manual. If my intention were to purchase a timepiece as a gift, this presentation box would provide an incentive to choose the Benyar chronograph.

While I prefer stainless steel, this watch’s metal alloy case appears to be reasonably sturdy.

The pushbuttons jut out from the edge of the case, and at times I have unintentionally initiated the stopwatch function. If unnoticed, this will reduce battery life.

The Benyar chronometer includes a genuine Japanese movement. All pushbuttons function correctly, and both the time and date can be easily set. These are the hallmarks of a quality movement.

Overall Impression

While I have no use for the chronograph function, it is sort of cool, and the watch looks good on my wrist. If you are looking for an inexpensive but attractive timepiece, the Benyar BY-5103M should be on the top of your list.

Best Replica: Replica Panerai Pam 563 Luminor Marina

Although I disapprove of replicas, they represent a healthy portion of the total sales of Chinese manufactured watches. Since I specialize in reviews of Chinese timepieces, I buy and test several replica’s each year.

2018 proved to be a bad year. I purchased four replicas. Two lasted less than a month, and one was so cheaply built I could not force myself to strap it around my wrist.

I obtained the replica Panerai 563 on eBay under the understanding that it was a used but genuine timepiece. Imagine my surprise when it shipped from Hong Kong.

When I received the watch, I discovered it was powered by an automatic movement rather than the expected hand-wound movement. This timepiece was a fake.

I contacted eBay and; within two weeks, my purchase price and shipping fee had been returned. The seller, not willing to pay to ship the replica back to Hong Kong, did not bother to ask for its return.

Description

Inside what appeared to be legitimate Panerai packaging, I found a wooden watch box. It measures eighteen centimeters by eighteen centimeters (6.80 inches) and is ten centimeters (3.80 inches) deep. This box weighs 862 grams (30.4 ounces) and is covered with a light-brown veneer. The hardware consists of a pair of stainless-steel hinges. The bottom is covered with a protective layer of felt.

The inside of the box is well appointed with a felt-like material. Accessories include a jeweler’s screwdriver, and a rubber strap labeled Officine Panerai Italy. The timepiece was secured around a soft black cushion; it's face obscured by a form-fitting silicone cover.

Strangely, the metal tag attached to the inside of the box misidentified the watch as an Officine Panerai Firenze.

I removed the timepiece, slipped off its silicone cover and, out of habit, gave it a shake. To my surprise, the replica began to tick.

Quickly, I pulled the watch free from its cushion and examined its back. An Officine Panerai labeled rotor slid into view behind the glass observation window. Someone has slipped an automatic movement into a manual winding watch!

The replica Panerai Luminor Marina is a heavy timepiece, weighing in at 134 grams (4.74 ounces). Its diameter reaches 51.7 millimeters, and this timepiece is 18 millimeters thick.

The brushed stainless steel case is topped by a bezel which is either polished stainless-steel or plastic.

While most Panerai timepieces utilize a sandwich-style dial, the Pam 563 employs a simpler design. It is white with Arabic numbering to identify the hours. The subdial, located at the nine o’clock position, functions as the second hand. A generous dollop of luminous paint marks each hour, and a thick layer covers all three pointers.

This watch features a crown protector which appears identical to those used on Panerai timepieces.

Its band is composed of thick black leather and includes a brushed metal buckle labeled Panerai.

I timed this replica over a ten-day period. It gained 1.8 seconds per day which I consider incredibly accurate for a mechanical watch in this price category. Measured power reserve tested to forty-six hours.

A lever attached to the crown protector is used to push and hold the crown fully closed. The tiny roller which presses firmly against the crown ensures this mechanism will enjoy a long life.

Quality Control

About three weeks after I received this replica, the rattle of gears whirling far faster than normal drove my eyes toward the face of the watch. I expected to see the second and minute hands revolving at helicopter blade speed and detaching from their pinions. This was not the case.

I removed the watch and gave it a shake. The mainspring unraveled further, and the rotor circled around in a counter-clockwise motion.

This is not good. Some part of the automatic winding assembly is malfunctioning, allowing the mainspring to unwind. This action could wear down the gears within this assembly and degrade the replica’s ability to self-wind. Furthermore, if these components deteriorate, fine bits of metal dust could spread throughout the watch, affecting the timepiece’s accuracy and shortening its lifespan.

The leather strap is quite durable but, during assembly, a shorter than necessary pin was used to attach its buckle. I simply replaced the pin but, for many customers, this repair would include an expensive trip to the jeweler.

Overall Impression

The replica Panerai is a beautiful watch. However, it appears to have been assembled from whatever parts were available and while the timepiece proved to be extremely accurate, I am dubious of the quality of its movement. This type of replica normally sells in the three to the four-hundred-dollar range. At that price, there are better and more legitimate, options.

© 2018 Walter Shillington

I've always loved buying and collecting minimalist watches, and I found the Brathwait automatic to be quite nice.

Brathwait Company History

Brathwait is an American watchmaker that has been in business since 2014. They are calling themselves the only transparent watchmaker in the world. Meaning they are showing exactly what it means to make watches and illustrating where some watchmakers take shortcuts or cut costs. Personally, at first glance, I thought it was a shtick, but after digging into the company, I changed my tune. I am intrigued by the way they break down their cost and show exactly why they charge what they do. And bottom line, looking at the components, the products look to be good value, in general.

Brathwait was founded by Henrik Torp. He wanted to create a company that could claim transparency and really, honestly mean it. It looks to me that he is doing just that. They are not Rolex or Omega. They are purchasing movements and straps and assembling the watches, so they are not hand-making the product, but they are putting together a good product. It makes me think of Shinola, but comparing costs, you will see what you get for 800 dollars from Shinola, you will probably get for about 150 dollars from Brathwait.

Brathwait is located in Delaware. They currently have a fairly large selection of watches, mostly revolving around a minimalist look. If it is a look you like, I would suggest you take a look at what they have.

Watch Specifications

The Brathwait Automatic Minimalist has some very nice specs for a watch for under 300 dollars. It has a Miyota movement, and a sapphire lens, as well as a leather strap. Those are things you will be hard-pressed to find on a watch for under 500 dollars. It is impressive to me.

• Case: 40mm wide 316l stainless steel. 20mm between strap lugs.
• Glass: 1.9mm Sapphire glass with anti-reflective coating
• Movement: Miyota 9015 caliber automatic movement with date, 24 Jewel with 42-hour power reserve. 28,800 BPH.
• Water Resistance: 100 meters/10 bar

The watch has excellent components. Do the components make the whole just as good?

My Opinion of the Brathwait Automatic Minimalist

If you haven't already guessed, I am going to give this watch a very good review. I think that pound for pound, you are getting a whole lot of watch for the cost. Let's start from the inside and work our way out.

The Miyota 9015 Movement

Miyota is a Japanese movement maker that has been making movements since 1956. They are a 65% held subsidiary of Citizen Watch Group, and they are the maker of all Citizen movements. On top of that, other than ETA, I believe they may be the most popular movements available today.

The Miyota 9015 is an automatic movement. Meaning it is a mechanical self-winding movement. It has been in production since 2009. It has 24 jewels with a 42-hour power reserve and a ball-bearing rotor. It has hacking seconds and date, and it runs at 28,800 BPH.

The specs for the movement are solid for what I would expect from a sub-300 dollar watch. And it is a movement from a well-respected company. This is a positive for this watch, as far as I am concerned.

The Watch Case

The watch case is machined from 316l surgical grade stainless steel. The elemental composition for 316l is similar to most other stainless steels, with a lower carbon content. It has a yield strength of around 25,000 psi and has great wear characteristics for an everyday watch. The case is machined from one piece. The backplate is a separate piece that is threaded into the case body. The crown is also stainless steel. This isn't groundbreaking technology. Probably about 75% of watches are made from stainless. It is a cost-effective metal that can be in regular contact with the skin without having an abundance of possible chemical reactions.

The Lens

It is really hard to find a reasonably priced watch with a sapphire lens. At this price point, I would usually expect some proprietary material (which basically is either glass or plastic) or just an acrylic lens. A sapphire lens is the standard for high-end watches and I really am impressed that they include it with this watch.

The Band

The band is Italian leather. It doesn't wow me. But in my mind, it doesn't have to. Bands are replaceable and are generally going to give you a few years of use before they will require replacing. I cannot give you a true opinion of the band without actually wearing the watch.

My Recommendation

Overall I think the Brathwait Automatic Minimalist is a really nice watch. And I think it is doubly nice for the price-point. Generally, at the 200–300 dollar range you are going to get a quartz watch. Or you're not going to get a sapphire lens. And both of those are really what put this watch over the top.

Readers Poll

© 2018 Leonard L Sampson

Walter Shillington is an avid collector of mechanical watches. His reviews focus on inexpensive but often intriguing Chinese timepieces.

Many of the watches I review are recycled as Christmas gifts. One of my relatives, noticing this tendency, took me aside and noted that he was not overly fond of wristwatches. A pocket watch, however, would be welcomed.

Fair enough. I checked out eBay and Amazon, quickly discovering a large selection of pocket watches ranging in price from three dollars to 10,000.

The cheapest watches available actually looked good but were fitted with quartz movements. That was cheating; in my opinion, old-fashioned styled timepieces should be mechanical.

All the pocket watches in my price range originated from China. There were a number of brands available, but since I already own a couple of timepieces manufactured by Kronen & Söhne, I concentrated on their offerings.

In the end, I settled on the KSP034, a handsome watch that happened to be on sale.

Description

Packaging is a strong point for Kronen & Söhne. My new KSP034 came encased within an attractive cardboard watch box along with a gold-colored chain, key fob, tag, and international warranty card. The only quibble I have is that the foam cut-out in which the timepiece sat, was designed for a slightly larger timepiece.

My new watch sports a shiny gold alloy case. It is also available in silver and gray. Pushing down on the crown disengages a latch designed to secure the front cover.

This timepiece’s dial is gray and appointed with large gold Roman Numerals. Its center is removed, allowing a view of the movement. A variety of styles are available for those who dislike this variation.

The caseback includes a circular window, through which the mechanical, hand-wound movement can be observed. Both the caseback window and dial are composed of an acrylic material.

The Manufacturer

Kronen & Söhne is trademarked by TRILLION TOP COMPANY LIMITED, which was founded in 2012 and is headquartered in the international financial center of Hong Kong. This company, an import/exporter, owns several watch brands and markets its products around the world.

Kronen & Söhne do not actually operate a watch factory. My expectation is that they purchase the required components from a variety of Chinese manufacturers. These parts, in turn, are assembled into watches and packaged by other companies.

Specifications

Brand: Kronen & Söhne

Condition: New with box and tag

Part number: KSP034

Place of origin: China

Gender: Male

Display: Analog

Movement: Mechanical, hand-wound

Style: Pocket watch

Features: Full hunter with chain and key fob

Chain material: Gold-colored alloy

Chain length: 340 millimeters (13.4 inches)

Dial color: Gray

Dial window material type: Acrylic

Case material: Gold-colored alloy

Case diameter: 47 millimeters (1.85 inches)

Case thickness: 14.7 millimeters

Weight: 86 grams (3.05 ounces) with chain

Water resistance: Not resistant to water

Visual Appeal

The outside case is very bright and shiny. While some people will appreciate the little window, displaying the movement, I would have preferred a solid caseback.

The gray dial with large Roman Numerals looks great, but this styling has one drawback. The gold numbers tend to obscure the watch's similarly colored hands as they sweep around the dial.

This pocket watch is equipped with a matching chain and a gold key fob. A smallish timepiece, it will fit snugly into the tiny pocket sewn into most brands of jeans.

Accuracy

I tested the Kronen & Söhne KSP034 over a four-day period, winding the timepiece every twelve hours. It lost an average of 7.5 seconds per day. Considering the price range of this watch, this result is excellent.

After being wound for the final time, the KSP034 continued to run for 32 hours.

Quality Control

This watch’s dial was installed incorrectly. Under normal circumstances, the twelve o’clock indicator can be found directly below the timepiece’s crown. In this case, the crown was centered between the twelve and one o’clock indicators.

The hour hand of a timepiece should be positioned at the proper hour indicator at the same time as the minute hand reaches the twelve o’clock position. On the KSP034, this does not occur until the minute hand approaches the half-hour point.

This watch was sloppily assembled, and lax—perhaps non-existent—quality control measures failed to ensure it was pulled from production.

Durability

The alloy case feels flimsy but, to be honest, has suffered no dents or scrapes during its testing period. The latch used to release the front cover works well and should continue to do so.

Both the dial and rear display window are composed of an acrylic material instead of mineral glass. The front cover will adequately protect the dial but, over time, the display window may become scratched.

I could not determine the make of this pocket watch’s movement. It is a cheapy for sure, but sometimes these no-name mechanisms operate remarkably well.

The included chain is strong enough to support the weight of this timepiece. Water resistance was not listed, suggesting this pocket watch should be kept away from liquids.

Overall Impression

Kronen & Söhne’s KSP034 is a great-looking, accurate, and reasonably priced mechanical pocket watch. Unfortunately, due to inadequate quality control, I cannot recommend this timepiece.

Questions & Answers

Question: What is the little key that comes with a Kronen and Sohne pocket watch for?

Answer: Some of the earlier pocket watches were wound using a key which tightened the timepiece's mainspring. In this case, the key is simply a fob to remind you of the past. I thought it was a nice touch.

Question: Is your Kronen & Söhne mechanical watch still working?

Answer: I have not been using it since the test. I did wind it a few turns this evening and the watch started ticking right away.

© 2018 Walter Shillington

Walter Shillington is an avid collector of mechanical watches. His reviews focus on inexpensive but often intriguing Chinese timepieces.

While Thüringer Uhren Werke (TUW) Ruhla is fairly new on the scene, they are based in the heartland of German Horology.

In 1862, Georg and Christian Thiel founded a metal factory in Ruhla, manufacturing products such as door hinges and pipe fittings. Gebruder Thiel GmbH proved to be successful, enabling the company to expand.

A children’s clock they created became very popular in England and the USA. In the early 1890s, Gebruder Thiel moved on to pocket watches and, in 1908, wristwatches. Over time, this company developed a reputation for manufacturing solid and reliable timepieces at a reasonable price.

After World War Two, the USSR assumed management of Eastern Germany. Although much of its equipment was expropriated as war reparations, this company continued to perform well. In 1952, it was nationalized and renamed Uhren und Maschinenfabrik Ruhla. A few years later, watch manufacturers Ruhla, Glasshutte, and Weimar were merged in VEB Uhrenkombinat Ruhla.

In 1974, Ruhla invented the first fully automatic assembly line for the assembly of the basic gear-work of a mechanical watch. This system used magnetism and gravity to place tiny gears into exactly the proper position inside each individual case.

By the late 1980s, Ruhla began to experience difficulties. Western buyers demanded greater variety and frequent product changes. This required investments in additional machinery that the company could not afford.

Ruhla was relatively top-heavy. Of 77,000 workers, one-third were either management or support personnel such as doctors, optometrists, and garbage men. As sales faltered, expenses could not be reduced.

In 1991, shortly after the reunification of Germany, Ruhla failed. The remains of this company were split into several private companies. One of these—Gardé watches and precision mechanics Ruhla GmbH—remains in operation, and their timepieces can be found on eBay and Amazon.

Description

The TUW Ruhla 1892 Automatik is relatively lightweight for a 42-millimeter automatic timepiece, weighing in at 73 grams (2.6 ounces). It is 12 millimeters thick.

This watch’s case is composed of 316L stainless steel. While the Automatik is available in a variety of colors, mine came with a silver dial and blue markings.

Subdials are provided for the second-hand and twenty-four-hour clock. A circular cutout positioned at three o’clock, reveals the date.

A caseback window allows the wearer to view this timepiece’s Miyota 8219 automatic movement.

The Automatik is fitted with a black leather strap, featuring a stainless-steel buckle.

The Manufacturer

Gunther Beck and Alexander Langue, two Thüringen-born entrepreneurs, created an online watch store in 2006. They used company’s profits, along with seed money derived from a successful 2016 Kickstarter program, to organize and fund their new watch manufacturer.

Thüringen Uhren Werke (TUW) Ruhla began operation in 2016 and is based in Ruhla, Thuringia of Germany.

TUW Ruhla sources the parts used in their timepieces and assembles them in a local workshop. At present, this company uses movements manufactured by Miyota, Seiko, Vostok, Hattori, and Epson. TUW Ruhla produces both mechanical and quartz timepieces.

Specifications

Brand: TUW Ruhla

Model: TUW Ruhla 1892 Automatik

Condition: New

Place of Origin: Ruhla, Germany

Gender: Male

Display: Analog

Movement: Miyota 8219 Automatic

Style: Business

Features: Second-hand and 24-hour subdials, and a date indicator

Band material: Leather

Band color: Black

Band width: 20 millimeters

Clasp type: Stainless-steel buckle

Dial color: Silver

Dial window material: Sapphire crystal

Case material: 316L Stainless steel

Case diameter: 42 millimeters

Case thickness: 12 millimeters

Weight: 73 grams (2.6 ounces)

Water resistance: 10 ATM (100 meters)

Visual Appeal

A shiny stainless-steel case is matched to a silver dial. Two subdials reflect light quite nicely, and a tiny hole pierces the dial, revealing the date. When I describe this timepiece, words like tidy, crisp, and professional spring to mind.

The caseback has been fitted with a window, which displays a rather sexy automatic movement. I particularly like the Miyota’s minimalistic rotor.

This timepiece is equipped with a black leather strap. It matches well with the case.

Support and Service

Small watch companies often differentiate their business by providing personal service. During preparation for my review of the Oniss Paris Meca, I emailed the company for additional information. Three hours later, I received an actual phone call from Oniss, and the representative patiently answered all of my questions.

I was equally impressed by the response from TUW Ruhla. Mr. Gunther Beck, one of the company’s proprietors, politely responded to my long list of queries. He even offered to provide photographs of his workshop.

Accuracy

During a one-week test period, the TUW Ruhla Automatik lost an average of 27 seconds per day.

A second test consisted of wearing the watch for two days and then removing it from my wrist. It continued to keep time for an additional 22 hours.

Both subdials and the date mechanism worked properly.

Durability

The TUW Rulha’s case is composed of 316L stainless steel. This grade of steel contains two to three percent molybdenum, which increases the metal’s resistance to corrosion.

Miyota manufactured the movement shipped with this watch. They have, over the years, acquired an excellent reputation for consistency and quality.

The Automatik’s dial is protected by a genuine Sapphire crystal, and this timepiece is equipped with a leather strap of decent quality.

Most of my watches are rated either 3 ATM or 5 ATM. The TUW Ruhla has a water resistance of 10 ATM. It can be worn while swimming or snorkeling.

Overall Impression

I like this timepiece. Its overall quality is high, and whether you are wearing a suit or a pair of ragged jeans, the TUW Ruhla 1892 Automatik will add value to your attire.

My older Russian watches are capped by Plexiglas crystals. In direct contrast, this offering from TUW Ruhla is fitted with a Sapphire crystal. The following poll is designed to determine what value the prospective customer attaches to the materials used to manufacture his timepiece’s crystal.

© 2018 Walter Shillington

Comments

Adam on October 15, 2018:

Mine is only plus 7seconds a day

Jim Rees on March 25, 2018:

Maybe I overlooked the price in your review, however upon checking Amazon, I think that this watch is overpriced. Plus, over 20 seconds off is not good for a Miyota movement. I just do not get the appeal of this piece. Great review as always my friend.

Walter Shillington is an avid collector of mechanical watches. His reviews focus on inexpensive but often intriguing Chinese timepieces.

For a number of years, Parnis manufactured the Marina Militare, a homage version of Paneria’s highly coveted luxury watch.

Compagnie Financière Richemont SA., Paneria’s owner, disagreed with that designation. They felt the Parnis line was composed of a series of outright replicas. They had a point, and, in 2017, all Parnis Marina Militare watches were removed from Amazon, eBay, and other large e-commerce sites.

Parnis Marina Militare timepieces are now being heavily discounted at websites such as mywatchcode, and further production has ceased.

These timepieces are being sold for $74.00 (including shipping), and that’s a lot of money for an orphaned watch. Is it worth it? I decided to purchase one and find out.

Description

At 192 grams (6.8 ounces), this automatic owns the record as the heaviest watch in my collection. The Marina Militare spans 47 millimeters, and if you include the crown protector, its diameter increases to 52. This timepiece is 19 millimeters thick.

The watch’s Seagull 2555 automatic movement is encased within a hefty case composed of 316L grade, brushed stainless steel. Its black colored dial is surrounded by a massive and rotatable bezel and protected by a hardened mineral glass crystal.

A tiny window at the three o’clock position allows the wearer to view the date. The second-hand subdial is located at the nine o’clock position.

Hour indications are white and trimmed with silver. Luminous paint coats the hands, and a generous dollop is applied to the twelve o’clock position of the timepiece’s bezel.

A large, Panerai style, crown protector juts from the timepiece’s right edge. On the left, a button is engraved with the symbol He.

Most modern mechanical watches incorporate a window as part of the caseback. For this timepiece, Parnis went old-school, providing a traditional stainless-steel caseback.

Heavy watches necessitate the use of high-quality straps. This one includes a thick brown leather band with white stitching and a brushed stainless steel buckle.

The Manufacturer

Parnis is a small Chinese watch company, trademarked by Xiao Jian Hong of Guangzhou.

Parnis designs their own timepieces and assembles them at their manufacturing facility at Tong De Wei, Guangzhou. The various components are contracted out from companies such as Seagull, Miyota, and Dixmount. Fu Yuan Xin manufacturers their cases.

Parnis produces both mechanical and quartz driven timepieces. Some of these watches, such as the Marina Militare, closely resemble their Swiss competitors’ more expensive luxury timepieces. Other designs are fresh and original.

Parnis has acquired a good reputation due to its use of superior components and respectable quality control.

The Vendor

Because they offer excellent buyer protection, I usually confine my internet purchases to Amazon, eBay, DhGate, and AliExpress. Before buying this timepiece on mywatchcode, I conducted some research.

Mywatchcode is registered to HiChina Zhicheng Technology Ltd. HiChina is a China-based web hosting company. HiChina Zhicheng Technology Limited is a wholesale supplier of electronics, apparel, and home and garden supplies. This vendor also runs watch stores on eBay, Amazon, and AliExpress.

Mywatchcode accepts Paypal. This is good because I am loath to provide credit card information to obscure Chinese websites.

My purchase went smoothly and my new watch arrived on schedule.

Specifications

Brand: Parnis

Model: Marina Militare Automatic

Condition: New (clearance item)

Place of Origin: Guangzhou, China

Gender: Male

Display: Analog

Movement: Seagull 2555 Automatic

Style: Luxury

Features: Second-hand subdial, date indicator, rotatable bezel, and crown protector

Band material: Leather

Band color: Brown with white stitching

Band width: 26 millimeters

Clasp type: Brushed stainless-steel buckle

Dial color: Black

Dial window material: Hardened mineral glass

Case material: 316L Stainless steel

Case diameter: 47 millimeters (not including crown protector)

Case thickness: 19 millimeters

Weight: 192 grams (6.8 ounces)

Water resistance: 3 ATM (splash resistant only)

Visual Appeal

The Marina Militare’s huge brushed stainless-steel case, combined with its massive rotatable bezel is sure to attract attention. The Panerai styled crown protector also contributes to this effect.

Parnis, however, added a touch of simplicity, choosing to provide a black dial marked with white indicators and a second-hand subdial. A date indicator at the three o’clock position works well but is difficult to see in low light.

While I would prefer a window at the back, displaying this timepiece’s movement, the hefty stainless-steel caseback certainly suggests ruggedness and durability.

The thick brown leather strap goes well with the overall design of this watch.

Accuracy

I tested the Parnis Marina Militare for one week. Over this time, it gained an average of 7.5 seconds per day. This is excellent accuracy for an automatic watch in the one-hundred-dollar price range.

After I removed the timepiece from my wrist, it continued to keep time for a further 47 hours. I consider this exceptional.

Durability

A solid stainless-steel case and hardened mineral glass crystal provide the movement with good physical protection.

This watch incorporates a well-designed crown protector. The end of the lever, which pushes against the crown is fitted with a roller, ensuring the mechanism enjoys a lengthy lifespan.

Parnis matched this watch with a Seagull 2555 automatic movement. Seagull has established and maintained a good reputation for quality control.

The attached strap is composed of thick leather and should provide yeomen service for several years.

The case of this watch is fitted with a button inscribed He; the symbol for the chemical element helium. When commercial divers operate at great depths, they spend periods of time crouched inside diving bells breathing a mixture of gases in which helium is included. Helium atoms are very small natural gas particles that can seep past a timepiece’s O-rings. While this will cause no immediate effect, when the diver rises to the surface, these gas particles will expand, possibly damaging the timepiece. Several brands of diver’s watches are equipped with a Helium release valve, which allows the gas to dissipate as pressure decreases.

I assume the helium release valve fitted to this watch is decorative in nature. Also, while the crown protector does secure the timepiece’s crown properly, the Parnis Marina Militare should not be considered a diver’s watch. Timepieces from this manufacturer are normally rated 3 ATM and are not suitable for swimming.

Overall Impression

The Parnis Marina Militare is an impressive watch with a strong air of machismo. It is coupled to an accurate Seagull movement and equipped with a quality leather strap. This watch is highly recommended.

Watch manufacturers often include functions that are purely decorative in nature. Some people like these additions, and others hate them. The following poll is meant to determine which of these decorative functions are appreciated by the average watch purchaser.

© 2018 Walter Shillington

Comments

Jeremiah Dimetrio on June 05, 2019:

Parnis PAM watches are nice and classy. The designs may be inspired by a more popular brand but they would modfy it a bit to avoid being called as replicas.

Walter Shillington (author) from Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada on April 07, 2018:

These Seagull movements are very accurate. I was disappointed with a similarly priced Miyota movement I tested recently. I am now testing a William Gregor with a Seiko NH35A 24 jewel movement. I hope it is accurate because I really like this watch.

Jim Rees on April 07, 2018:

Parnis watches are very popular with me because they use Seagull movements, one of the most accurate movements made in any price range in my opinion. Another great review my friend, please keep them coming!

Walter Shillington is an avid collector of mechanical watches. His reviews focus on inexpensive but often intriguing Chinese timepieces.

I spend a lot of time on eBay, throwing away my hard-earned cash on irresistible deals. One day, I came across an unbranded Parnis watch fitted with a hand-wound mechanical movement.

Why unbranded? Was Parnis so ashamed of this particular style that they refused to put their name to it? Maybe so, but I liked the timepiece. I put in a bid and, three days later, I was the proud owner of my first Seagull-equipped mechanical watch.

Description

This Parnis pilot watch is quite large, spanning 45.5 millimeters, but weighs only 75 grams (2.66 ounces). It is 11 millimeters thick.

The case is composed of brushed 316L stainless steel. A large onion-shaped crown juts from the watch’s right edge, and what appears to be a sliding switch is fitted to the opposite side. A device such as this could be used to apply pressure to the movement, holding it firmly in place. Then, to allow easy removal of the movement for cleaning, pressure could be removed by sliding the switch. It’s a moot point, however, because this mechanism is strictly decorative.

This timepiece features a black dial with white indicators and hands. It includes a subdial to keep track of passing seconds. All hands and indicators are coated with a white material that emits a bluish glow in darkness.

Except for a narrow stainless-steel rim, held in place by screws, the entire caseback is composed of hardened mineral glass. This allows a completely unobstructed view of the timepiece’s Seagull 6497 mechanical movement.

This pilot watch is equipped with a thick brown leather strap with white stitching and a brushed stainless-steel buckle.

The Manufacturer

Parnis is a small Chinese watch company, trademarked by Xiao Jiam Hong of Guangzhou.

Parnis designs their own timepieces and assembles them at their manufacturing facility at Tong De Wei, Guangzhou. The various components are contracted out from companies such as Seagull, Miyota, and Dixmount. Fu Yuan Xin manufactures their cases.

Parnis produces both mechanical and quartz-driven watches. Some of these timepieces, such as the Marina Militare, are intended to resemble their Swiss competitors’ more expensive luxury watches closely. Other designs are fresh and original.

Parnis has acquired a good reputation due to its use of superior components and respectable quality control.

Specifications

Brand: Parnis

Model: Unbranded

Condition: New

Place of Origin: Guangzhou, China

Gender: Male

Display: Analog

Movement: Seagull, hand winding 6497

Style: Pilot

Features: Second hand on subdial, large onion-shaped crown, and blue luminous paint

Band material: Leather

Band color: Dark brown with white stitching

Band width: 22 millimeters

Clasp type: Buckle

Dial color: Black

Dial window material: Hardened mineral glass

Case material: 316L Stainless steel

Case diameter: 45.5 millimeters

Case thickness: 11 millimeters

Weight: 75 grams (2.66 ounces)

Water resistance: 3 ATM (splash resistant only)

Visual Appeal

The manufacturer took pains to provide a timepiece that was simple to operate and, even for those with less than ideal eyesight, easy to read.

This watch is equipped with an attractive and very large onion-shaped crown. I quite like the bluish glow of its luminous paint. Sadly, however, the effect does not last as long as I would like.

A well-engraved mechanical movement is framed by a narrow rim of stainless-steel, supporting the largest viewing window that I have ever come across.

The attached strap is composed of dark brown leather. With its brushed stainless-steel buckle, this strap well complements the watch’s case.

Accuracy

I tested my new Parnis pilot watch for five days. During this time, the watch gained an average of 2.7 seconds per day. This score is quite impressive.

Reserve power is a respectable 58.5 hours.

The mainspring of a mechanical watch provides power to a set of gears. This power is transferred to the timepiece’s escapement, which turns its balance wheel.

The balance wheel is a weighted wheel that rotates back and forth, being returned toward its center position by a spiral torsion spring. Each time it rotates—and the balance wheel rotates many times a second—the mechanism that advances the watch’s hands is allowed to move forward.

If the spiral torsion spring is shortened, the balance wheel will not travel as far and, therefore, completes more rotations every second. In this case, the watch will run faster.

The 6497 movement is equipped with a small lever mounted above the balance wheel, which is used to increase or decrease the length of the torsion spring. If your watch is inaccurate, an adjustment of this lever will alleviate the problem. Please note that a small alteration can make a big difference.

Durability

This Parnis’s movement is securely enclosed within a stainless-steel case composed of grade 316L stainless steel.

A large, onion-shaped crown was selected for use on this timepiece. It provides an excellent grip, which the wearer will appreciate when he sets and winds his watch.

The included Seagull mechanical movement is a first-rate version of the ETA 6497 pocket watch movement and should last for many years.

Parnis equipped this watch with a decent leather strap. Water resistance, the timepiece’s weakest characteristic, is rated 3ATM.

Overall Impression

If you are searching for a quality mechanical watch at a decent price, this unbranded Parnis is worthy of serious consideration. However, it is an oddity, and examples are very difficult to locate. Several similar timepieces are available on Amazon, although none of these feature a decorative sliding switch.

Pilot watches, originally developed for aviators during WW2, have become very popular. While there are many variations, pilot watches are always large, easy to read, and equipped with oversized crowns. In the following poll, I am attempting to determine the average man’s interest in acquiring a pilot watch.

Comments

Anonymous on June 24, 2020:

Thanks for this article. Regardless that I now have this watch, it really is one of the best watch articles I have read. I got this watch for a steel & I'm extremely happy with it. A couple days before receiving this watch I was trying on IWC's in store & this watch still really feels so good. I didn't think I would enjoy a manual wind without hacking, but there's something really solid & reliable about it that I love.

Jim Rees on April 07, 2018:

I may have told you that I bought this watch, however my model had the second hand sub dial at the 6 position, plus it had the very long adjustment arm. Mine, also keeps very accurate time. I have only set the time one time, when first received, and after several weeks of wearing, it still has completely accurate time. This Seagull movement is amazing at the accuracy for a mechanical watch. Another great review my friend, and keep them coming!

Jim Rees on March 21, 2018:

Hi Walter!

It was great to read your review of the Parnis Pilot. I also recently bought one, however my model has the sub dial at the 6 position. Other than location of the sub dial, the adjustment arm (swan neck) on my model is extremely long, compared to the model in your review. I have been wearing mine for over a week now, and so far it seems to be accurate to the second. If it is off any at all, it is so slight that I am unable to tell. I have not yet needed to re set the time. My cousin also purchased this watch at the same time I did, however with the 9 position like your review. It too, keeps accurate time and has not had the need for re setting the time. I find that the lume will last for a few hours, however gets weaker as time passes. Overall, I am more than satisfied with these watches, especially the accuracy, for the price. My model also came with a black leather band, instead of brown, which I preferred. The quality of these bands are very good. Another great review from you my friend, keep up the good work!! Also, if you get time, you may want to check out "HMT" watches. If you want, send me an email and i'll tell you more about them.

Walter Shillington is an avid collector of mechanical watches. His reviews focus on inexpensive but often intriguing Chinese timepieces.

Panerai manufactures what I consider to be the ultimate watch, but, unfortunately, these timepieces are well beyond my budget. I’ve tried replicas. My first cost only 15 dollars and was absolutely beautiful. Over a one-month period, it literally fell apart.

My second replica, although far more expensive, began to fail within two weeks.

I’d all but given up when I received an unsolicited email from mywatchcode. They were offering the Parnis Marina Militare for 50 dollars plus another six to cover shipping.

That seemed suspiciously low. I checked the timepiece on Google and gleaned this information from an article by fellow horologist Tom Adelstein.

While Parnis’s Marina Militare models are not branded Panerai, they are very close copies. After eight years of work accumulating evidence, Panerai’s parent company, Compagnie Financière Richemont SA, compelled the major eCommerce companies to cease sales of this watch.

My understanding is that Parnis Marina Militare models are no longer in production and that all remaining stock is being sold off at discount prices.

Since I consider Parnis to be one of the premier Chinese brands, I decided to take mywatchcode up on its offer.

Description

The Marina Militare is a hefty mechanical watch, weighing in at 112 grams (4 ounces). With the crown protector included, the timepiece’s diameter reaches 50 millimeters. It is 14 millimeters thick.

Like every Parnis I have tested, this watch’s case is composed of 316L grade stainless steel. The crown, which juts from the timepiece’s right edge, is protected by a device very similar to what is fitted onto a genuine Panerai.

This watch incorporates a sandwich-style dial. The bottom disk is coated with luminous paint. The upper disk is colored black, and indicators, representing one through twelve o’clock, are punched out along its outer rim. A subdial at the nine o’clock position keeps track of the passing seconds. All hands are coated with good quality luminous paint.

The caseback includes a large, mineral glass window. Though it, you can view the workings of an Asian, hand-winding 6497 movement.

This timepiece’s crocodile patterned, brown leather strap includes a solid stainless-steel buckle and displays white stitching along its edges.

With the exception of the name, Marina Militare, this watch includes no branding information.

The Manufacturer

Parnis is a small Chinese watch company, trademarked by Xiao Jiam Hong of Guangzhou.

Parnis designs their own timepieces and assembles them at their manufacturing facility at Tong De Wei, Guangzhou. The various components are contracted out from companies such as Seagull, Miyota, and Dixmount. Fu Yuan Xin manufacturers their cases.

Parnis produces both mechanical and quartz driven timepieces. Some of these watches, such as the Marina Militare, are intended to closely resemble their Swiss competitors’ more expensive luxury timepieces. Other designs are fresh and original.

Parnis has acquired a good reputation due to its use of superior components and respectable quality control.

Vendor's Website

Because they offer excellent buyer protection, I usually confine my internet purchases to Amazon, eBay, DhGate, and AliExpress. Before buying this timepiece on mywatchcode, I conducted some research.

Mywatchcode is registered to HiChina Zhicheng Technology Ltd. HiChina is a China-based web hosting company. HiChina Zhicheng Technology Limited is a wholesale supplier of electronics, apparel, and home and garden supplies. Although this website is separate, they also have a watch store on eBay.

This site accepts Paypal, avoiding the need to provide credit card information to a company that has not yet earned my trust.

My purchase went smoothly, and my new watch arrived on schedule.

Specifications

Brand: Parnis

Model: Marina Militare

Condition: New (clearance item)

Place of Origin: Guangzhou, China

Gender: Male

Display: Analog

Movement: Asian, hand winding 6497

Style: Luxury

Features: Second hand on subdial, crown protector

Band material: Leather

Band color: Brown with white stitching

Band width: 24 millimeters

Clasp type: Buckle

Upper dial color: Black

Lower dial color: Green

Dial window material: Hardened mineral glass

Case material: 316L Stainless steel

Case diameter: 50 millimeters (including crown protector)

Case thickness: 14 millimeters

Weight: 112 grams (4 ounces)

Water resistance: 3 ATM (splash resistant only)

Visual Appeal

The Marina Militare’s shiny stainless-steel case is quite imposing, and the matching crown protector ensures this watch presents an impression of solid ruggedness. Its black-on-green dial is subdued and very easy to read.

This timepiece’s caseback contains a window which allows a clear view of an engraved, 6497 mechanical movement.

It is equipped with a thick brown leather strap. While I am not a fan of crocodile patterned straps, this one, with its large stainless-steel buckle and white stitching, is particularly well done.

Accuracy

I tested the Parnis Marina Militare for five days. During this time, the watch gained 10 seconds. That works out to a commendable two seconds per day.

Reserve power is a respectable 59 hours.

Durability

The Marina Militare’s movement is securely enclosed within a stainless-steel case rated 316L. Only Rolex utilizes a higher grade of steel.

This timepiece is fitted with a crown protector, quite similar but inferior to that found on a Panerai watch. When the lever of the Marina Militare’s crown protector is extended, its far end nudges against the crown, securing it snugly. Both the timepiece’s crown and lever are composed of stainless steel and should wear well. Panerai utilizes a roller which is fitted to the lever. As the roller is forced against the crown, it turns. This action reduces wear and tear, ensuring the device will operate properly for many years.

The heart of the Marina Militare is its Asian 6497 mechanical movement. I compared this one to its Seagull manufactured brother, and they appear identical. That makes sense, I suppose, because both are based on the Swiss ETA 6497 pocket watch movement. This timepiece is very accurate, and the movement should last for many years.

Parnis equipped this watch with a thick and durable leather strap. While it fit me well, it is not particularly long. Those with larger wrists may need to purchase a replacement strap.

Considering this timepiece was named after the Italian Navy, you would expect it to be highly resistant to water ingress. Sadly, the Marina Militare is rated 3ATM. Don’t wear it in the pool.

Overall Impression

I love this watch and have ordered another, slightly more expensive, Marina Militare from mywatchcode. If you are looking for a good quality Panerai look-alike, Parnis’s Marina Militare carries my highest recommendation.

Back in the days when I was wasn’t so darn old, every watch I owned was plastered with luminous paint. Some of them were even slightly radioactive. Lately, though, except for digital watches, I’ve noticed that glow-in-the-dark timepieces are becoming less and less common. The accompanying poll is an attempt to measure how important luminous paint is to the average watch wearer.

Questions & Answers

Question: Is the crystal domed on the Marina Militare Watch?

Answer: No. It is flat.

Question: What is your opinion, as the writer of this article, of the Marina Militare Automatic Power Reserve MM1072-BWN?

Answer: I have never tested one but I do like the Parnis brand. This watch is likely to be large, heavy, and very accurate.

Question: How has your Marine Militare watch held up over time?

Answer: The watch has held up very well.

© 2018 Walter Shillington

Comments

Walter Shillington (author) from Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada on August 23, 2020:

Yes, ÇOIS, it is one of my favorite watches.

ÇOIS on August 23, 2020:

What a beautiful watch when you consider the price. I bought the watch after reading this review. And still works. I admit. it's not my daily beater.

if the watch breaks, I immediately replace the Asian movement, Unitas's clone.

a pleasure to watch through the case back.

neil on August 18, 2019:

I purchased on july 2019. wow, what a fantastic piece.

Walter Shillington (author) from Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada on April 08, 2019:

Hi John:

It still works very well.

John on April 08, 2019:

Hi, how did the watch hold up after all this time? Thank you

Dan on October 03, 2018:

Wish I had seen this article sooner! Would have loved to get one of these at the discount but it looks like they've sold out.

Jim Rees on March 21, 2018:

Another great review. It seems to me that overall, Parnis provides quality and accurate watches at reasonable prices. I also like for my watches to have lume. I have a Parnis Power Reserve watch which has been very accurate and of good overall quality. This model is new to me, but worth checking out. Keep up the great reviews!!

Walter Shillington is an avid collector of mechanical watches. His reviews focus on inexpensive but often intriguing Chinese timepieces.

I’m one of those fellows that loves gadgets. Although, to be honest, I have no logical use for a chronograph, I wanted one to add to my collection.

While chronographs are usually quite expensive, I found one on Amazon that fit my budget. The Benyar BY-5103M is available for only $32.99.

Description

The case of the Benyar chronograph is composed of black-painted alloy metal. A crown and two pushbuttons jut from its right edge. The top button starts and stops the chronograph function. The bottom switch resets it to zero.

This watch features a black dial with orange hour and minute indicators. All but one of the hands are colored to match.

A tiny window at the for 4:30 position presents a number representing the day of the month. The subdial directly above this functions as a twenty-four-hour clock.

Three subdials are used in conjunction with the chronograph feature. One hand rotates once every hour, and one completes a full cycle every minute. The indicator of the uppermost dial circles every two seconds. If your hand and eye coordination are up to it, you can time an event to within one-tenth of a second!

A crystal composed of scratch-proof mineral glass hovers above the dial. This model features a decent quality, tan leather strap, embossed with the manufacturer’s name and logo.

The Manufacturer

BY BENYAR is trademarked by Ye Yingbin of 33 Xiazhaiwai, Pudou Village; Zhanlong Town; Puning; Guangdong.

Guangdong is the most populous and economically viable province in China. Its economy is roughly equal to that of Mexico and the majority of China’s watch manufacturers are situated within this province. Unfortunately, I have been unable to ascertain which factory manufactures By Benyar timepieces.

Specifications

Brand: BY BENYAR

Model: BY-5103M

Condition: New

Place of Origin: Guangdong China

Gender: Male

Display: Analog

Movement: Japanese quartz

Style: Chronograph

Functions: 12-hour time, 24-hour time, day of month, and chronometer

Band material: Napped leather

Band color: Tan with silver colored buckle

Band width: 22 millimeters

Dial color: Black

Dial window material: Mineral glass

Case material: Metal alloy

Case diameter: 46 millimeters

Case thickness: 13 millimeters

Weight: 71 grams (2.5 ounces)

Water resistance: 3 ATM (splash resistant only)

Visual Appeal

The black and orange dial is packed with subdials, reminding me of the dashboard of a sports car or, perhaps, a small plane. It is quite striking.

Benyar chose to use a black-colored second hand, which, unfortunately, is difficult to pick out against the background of the chronometer’s dial.

The silver crown and pushbuttons will come across as a bit flashy for some people, but I like the effect.

This watch’s strap is composed of a napped leather; perhaps suede. The band looks really good, but the fine hairs coating its surface tend to pick up oil from your skin. This results in a strap that is darker where it is handled. While I consider this to be an example of building the timepiece’s character, others will feel the strap is covered in filth.

Most Chinese manufactured watches arrive protected by bubble-wrap and stuffed into an envelope. The Benyar BY-5103M came enclosed within a solid cardboard and plastic presentation box. They also included a tag, guarantee card, polishing cloth, and professionally produced user’s manual. If my intention were to purchase a timepiece as a gift, this presentation box would provide an incentive to choose the Benyar chronograph.

Durability

While I prefer stainless steel, this watch’s metal alloy case appears to be reasonably sturdy. It does, however, produce an irritatingly tinny sound when removed from my wrist and placed upon my bedroom dresser.

The pushbuttons jut out from the edge of the case, and at times, I have unintentionally initiated the stopwatch function. If unnoticed, this will reduce battery life.

Advertisements for the Benyar chronometer note that it includes a genuine Japanese movement. While I suspect this is correct, the movement’s origin cannot be verified due to my inability to remove the caseback. Either it is cross-threaded or I have reached that sad age where muscles began to atrophy. I really hope it is the former.

The soft and supple leather strap feels sturdy and should provide good service.

All pushbuttons function correctly, and both the time and date can be easily set. These are the hallmarks of a quality movement.

Overall Impression

While this watch is not perfect, the Benyar BY-5103M’s strengths far surpass its weaknesses. If you are in the market for a reasonably priced chronometer, this timepiece will be on your shortlist.

A chronometer is one of the more expensive functions available to an analog watch. The following survey attempts to measure how interested potential customers are in this particular feature.

Questions & Answers

Question: Is it true that the numbers on a BENYAR tachymeter bezel rub off after a few weeks?

Answer: You are probably thinking of another watch, rather than the Benyar BY-5103M. My timepiece has a black bezel which is not inscribed with numbers.

Comments

Herb on January 15, 2018:

Thanks for the info Shilly.

Walter Shillington is an avid collector of mechanical watches. His reviews focus on inexpensive but often intriguing Chinese timepieces.

In an effort to broaden my range of watch reviews, I recently joined Watch Gang. This month they sent me the CMP0002—a solar-powered timepiece manufactured by One Eleven.

My new timepiece arrived secured within a solidly constructed box composed of recycled cardboard and shoved inside an envelope layered with bubble wrap. Despite being delayed by customs, shipping time amounted to only eight days.

Description

This One Eleven solar-powered watch weighs in at 61 grams (2.15 ounces). It is 42 millimeters across and 10 millimeters thick.

A brushed stainless-steel case is wedged between the bezel and its caseback, both of which are highly polished.

From all appearances, the CMP0002 is equipped with antique style wire lugs. In actual fact, clever design work allows attachment of a modern 22-millimeter strap. A large fluted crown juts aggressively from the right edge of the case.

A black, sandwich-type dial fits beneath a flat sheet of hardened mineral crystal. The bottom layer accommodates an array of photovoltaic solar cells. The upper layer, which rims the outside edge of the dial, is marked with hour and minute indications. One Eleven includes an unusual styling technique, creating the suggestion of a distressed dial by incorporating a number of what appear to be scratches. The day of the month is displayed at the three o’clock position, and both the hands and hour indicators are coated in luminous paint.

The CMP0002 is powered by a Japanese manufactured, solar-powered movement. One Eleven considers the brand and model of this movement to be proprietary information.

This timepiece includes a 22-millimeter band composed of thick, brown leather.

The Manufacturer

One Eleven, a brand that stresses sustainability of resources and outdoor life, was trademarked by The Fossil Group in 2016.

Fossil Group was founded in 1984. It is an American company that designs and manufactures watches. They originally imported moderately priced fashion watches from the far east. In 1990, they began to sell leather goods under the Fossil name and introduced the Relic watch brand.

In 2001, Fossil purchased the Swiss manufacturer, Zodiac. Zodiac was retooled to produce watches of a retro-modern 1970’s style. They added Michele Watch in 2004, allowing Fossil to offer a high-end Swiss timepiece.

Skagen Designs was acquired in 2012 and, three years later, Fossil Group purchased Misfit.

Other licensed watch lines that Fossil designs, manufactures, and distributes include Burberry, DKNY, Emporio Armani, Columbia Sportswear, Diesel, Michael Kors, and Adidas.

Fossil has manufacturing facilities in China and distribution centers in Dallas, Asia, and Germany. Their design studio is located in Switzerland.

Specifications

Brand: One Eleven

Model: CMP0002

Condition: New

Place of Origin: China

Gender: Male

Display: Analog

Movement: Japanese solar powered quartz

Style: Sport

Function: Time plus day of the month

Features: Solar powered

Band material: Leather

Band color: Dark brown

Band width: 22 mm

Dial color: Black

Dial window material: Hardened mineral crystal

Case material: Stainless-steel

Case diameter: 42 millimeters

Case thickness: 10 millimeters

Weight: 61 grams (2.15 ounces)

Water resistance: 5 ATM (Shallow swimming but not diving, snorkeling or water sports)

Visual Appeal

The brushed finish of the stainless-steel case stands out well against the watch’s shiny bezel. Simulated wire lugs and a large crown provide an effect that greatly enhances the appeal of this timepiece.

One Eleven deliberately suggests wear and tear by incorporating a distressed dial. Perhaps I am old-fashioned, but I find this technique confusing. Of course, everyone has different tastes. In my opinion, the Itronix GoBook 3 is the coolest laptop ever produced. But when I enthusiastically introduce this wonderful device to my friends, they laugh and shake their heads in disagreement.

This watch is equipped with one of the nicest leather straps I have come across. It is both visually pleasing and comfortable.

Durability

The movement is securely contained within a solid stainless-steel case. Water resistance, at 5ATM, is higher than many competing watch brands.

The reasonably thick leather strap has performed well during my tests and should provide good service.

This watch is coupled to a Japanese solar-powered movement. The battery, according to the One Eleven, should last for approximately 10 years and, during this span, is expected to maintain at least 70% of its original capability. When adjusting the time, there was noticeable resistance, and the pointers’ movement proved consistent. These are traits you would expect in a quality movement.

Overall Impression

Despite my initial confusion with One Eleven’s distressed dial styling technique, I really like this watch. The CMP0002 is well designed, light-weight, and extremely durable. This solar-powered timepiece is worthy of serious consideration.

I purchased my new watch through Watch Gang. This company sends its customers a new timepiece every month. Since Watch Gang chooses the timepiece, I have no idea what I’ve purchased until it shows up at my door. In the following survey, I am attempting to determine how potential customers feel about this novel approach to sales. The results of this poll will assist in my formal review of Watch Gang.

Comments

Jay on April 04, 2018:

I went to the Watch Station at the National Harbor in Maryland and was able to get one on sale for $25.

Jim Rees on January 21, 2018:

I am considering adding a solar watch to my collection, however I would like to know the price before I make a decision. Joining a club of this type does not interest me. I like to research a watch, read many reviews, before deciding on purchase or not. As always my friend, I always enjoy reading your reviews.

Walter Shillington is an avid collector of mechanical watches. His reviews focus on inexpensive but often intriguing Chinese timepieces.

While browsing eBay, I discovered a great deal on a Panerai watch. This slightly used timepiece was on offer for 1,000 dollars. While that might seem excessive, these luxury watches normally sell for six times that amount.

The low price should have been a warning sign, but common sense is not my strong suit. Greedily, I selected the buy button.

Three days later, the item was shipped from Hong Kong. That was disappointing as Swiss watches don’t normally originate from China.

I immediately contacted the seller, asking him to cancel the sale. He ignored my request, and, two days later, the watch arrived. I attempted to arrange a return. When this failed, I requested assistance from eBay.

Since this watch’s stated location was my own country, not China, eBay asked the vendor to pay return shipping and refund my money.

Within two weeks, the purchase price and shipping costs were returned. I retained possession of the replica. I have no right to it, but, obviously, the vendor felt the cost of return shipping exceeded the watch’s value.

Description

My new replica Panerai arrived on schedule, protected by a layer of foam.

Inside what appeared to be legitimate Panerai packaging, I found a wooden watch box. It measures eighteen centimeters by eighteen centimeters (6.80 inches) and is ten centimeters (3.80 inches) deep. This box weighs 862 grams (30.4 ounces) and is covered with a light brown veneer. The hardware consists of a pair of stainless-steel hinges. The bottom is covered with a protective layer of felt.

The inside of the box is well appointed with a felt-like material. Accessories include a jeweler’s screwdriver and a rubber strap labeled Officine Panerai Italy. The timepiece was secured around a soft black cushion, its face obscured by a form-fitting silicone cover.

Strangely, the metal tag attached to the inside of the box identified the watch as an Officine Panerai Firenze.

I removed the timepiece, slipped off its silicone cover, and, out of habit, gave it a shake. To my surprise, the replica began to tick.

Quickly I pulled the watch free from its cushion and examined its back. An Officine Panerai labeled rotor slid into view behind the glass observation window. Someone has slipped an automatic movement into a manual winding watch.

This replica Panerai Luminor Marina is a heavy watch, weighing in at 134 grams (4.74 ounces). Its diameter reaches 51.7 millimeters, and this timepiece is 18 millimeters thick.

The brushed stainless-steel case is topped by a bezel, which is either polished stainless-steel or plastic.

While most Panerai timepieces utilize a sandwich-style dial, the Pam 563 employs a simpler design. It is white with Arabic numbering to identify the hours. The subdial, located at the nine o’clock position, functions as the second hand. A generous dollop of luminous paint marks each hour, and a thick layer covers all three pointers.

This watch features a crown protector that looks identical to those used on Panerai timepieces.

Its band is composed of thick black leather and includes a brushed metal buckle labeled Panerai.

The Manufacturer

In 1860 Giovanni Panerai opened a watchmaker’s shop in Florence, Italy, and, by the end of the 19th century, had established ties with many leaders from the Swiss horology heartland.

Panerai morphed into a research and development orientated company, specializing in component fabrication, instrument design, and mechanical engineering. They won many contracts with the Italian Navy and developed a radium-based paint for use with navigational equipment and watches.

During the 1920s, Panerai began to work with Rolex, modifying the Swiss manufacturer’s waterproof Oyster case for use in military diver’s watches. These timepieces were very popular during the second world war.

In 1956 Panerai and Rolex ended their cooperative venture and the company’s instrument line entered a period of decline. By 1972 Panerai had discontinued its watchmaking activities, concentrating on the development of dive tools, aerospace components, and radio equipment.

Panerai changed direction in 1993, offering a selection of consumer watches. The luxury market, however, is extremely difficult to enter, and, with their lack of an effective distribution base, Panerai appeared destined for failure.

Luckily, Sylvester Stallone discovered the brand while shooting the action film Daylight in Rome. Stallone liked Panerai so much, he placed a succession of mass orders for custom “Slytech”-branded Luminors. These watches were soon seen wrapped around the wrists of many of Sylvester Stallone’s friends—including Arnold Schwarzenegger. And a watch worn by both Rocky Balboa and The Terminator is macho enough for any man.

By 1997, Panerai’s fortunes were improving, and a strong market had developed for large diving watches. At this point, the Vendome Group—now Richemont, S.A.—decided to purchase Panerai. For approximately $1.5 million U.S., Officine Panerai joined the larger company and, in doing so, gained access to significant marketing, product development, and distribution resources. Richemont International S.A. was incorporated in 1972 and is based in Villars-Sur-Glane, Switzerland. It operates as a subsidiary of Compagnie Financiere Richemont SA.

The popularity of Panerai timepieces has increased significantly over the years. Between 1993 and 1997, they sold an estimated 2,000 watches. In 2013, they sold over 70,000 units.

The watch under review today is a replica. Most internet stores avoid selling replicas because these watches are produced without regard to copyright laws. The factories that manufacture them steal both the originating company’s design and their branding information. These timepieces are generally of lower quality than the original and, when they fail, the company whose name is featured on the watch is the one whose reputation will suffer.

Specifications

Brand: Panerai Luminor Marina (Replica)

Condition: New

Model number: Pam 563 Luminor Marina 8 Days Acciaio White Dial (Replica)

Place of origin: China

Gender: Male

Display: Analog

Movement: Chinese manufactured automatic

Style: Luxury

Features: Crown protector

Functions: Time of day

Band material: Leather

Band width: 24 mm

Dial color: White

Dial window material: Glass

Case material: Stainless-steel

Case diameter: 51.7 mm including crown

Case thickness: 18 mm

Weight: 134 grams (4.74 ounces)

Water resistance: Unknown; probably splash-proof only

Visual Appeal

I appreciate the contrast between the smoothly polished bezel and the brushed stainless-steel case. Although it might be considered gaudy, the huge crown protector that arches over the crown fit well with the timepiece’s overall design. The dial is simply constructed and easy to read.

This watch includes a caseback inscribed with official appearing Panerai trademark information. A large window allows a view of a handsome automatic movement.

The plain black leather band with its Panerai inscribed buckle goes well with the overall appearance of this timepiece.

Accuracy

I timed this replica over a ten-day period. It gained 1.8 seconds per day, which I consider incredibly accurate for a mechanical watch in this price category. Measured power reserve tested to 46 hours.

Durability

A lever attached to the crown protector is used to push and hold the crown fully closed. The tiny roller that presses firmly against the crown ensures this mechanism will enjoy a long life.

About three weeks after I received this replica, the rattle of gears whirling far faster than they should drove my eyes toward the face of the watch. I expected to see the second and minute hands revolving at helicopter blade speed and detaching from their pinions. This was not the case.

I removed the watch and gave it a shake. The mainspring unraveled further, and the rotor circled around in a counter-clockwise motion.

This is not good. Some part of the automatic winding assembly is malfunctioning, allowing the mainspring to unwind partially. This action will quickly wear down the gears within this assembly and degrade the replica’s ability to self-wind. As these components deteriorate, fine bits of metal dust will spread throughout the watch, gravely affecting the timepiece’s accuracy. At some point—probably within one year—this mechanism will lose its ability to prevent the mainspring from completely unraveling.

The leather strap is quite durable but, during assembly, a shorter than necessary pin was used to attach its buckle. I was able to replace the pin but, for many customers, this repair would include an expensive trip to the jeweler.

Overall Impression

This replica Panerai is a beautiful and surprisingly accurate watch. However, it appears to have been assembled from whatever parts were available, and, unfortunately, the quality of the included movement is very poor.

If you like the Panerai style, you might consider the Marina Militare Automatic. This homage watch, manufactured by Parnis, is equipped with a Seagull St2530 movement. While I have not reviewed the Marina Militare, I am familiar with both Parnis and Seagull. I consider them to be quality manufacturers.

Questions & Answers

Question: Do you know anything about the movement of the Panerai watch? I'd like to know what factory/type it is.

Answer: It is a nice looking movement but often the rotor will spin counter-clockwise with a gnashing of teeth. That cannot be good. I have no idea what factory manufactured this movement but my expectation is that it is of Chinese origin.

Question: Do you buy these watches just to review them, or do you wear them on a regular basis?

Answer: I mostly buy them to review them. The better replicas are later gifted to friends and family. There are a couple I really like; I wear them from time to time. Always keep in mind that most of the effort in manufacturing a replica goes toward making it look authentic. The result is usually a nice looking watch but one that is not very accurate or is prone to failure. Sometimes, though, you get lucky.

© 2017 Walter Shillington

Walter Shillington is an avid collector of mechanical watches. His reviews focus on inexpensive but often intriguing Chinese timepieces.

Daniel Niederer, an experienced distributor of luxury timepieces in Asia, felt there was room for a new watch brand in the 1,000-dollar range. He designed a timepiece that presented a style far different than competing Swiss watches and, in 2012, founded SevenFriday.

SevenFriday timepieces are squarish in shape, lack lugs, and feature a face cluttered with rotating disks. In many cases, the balance wheel can be clearly seen. This style is often referred to as industrial.

SevenFriday manufactures what can truly be called an international watch. They are designed in Switzerland, powered by Japanese movements, and assembled in Hong Kong.

These timepieces are popular with those who desire a watch with a fresh and bold design. Sales of SevenFriday timepieces have increased each year since the company was formed.

The watch under review today is a replica. Most internet-based stores avoid selling replicas because these timepieces are manufactured without regard for copyright laws. The factories that assemble them steal both the originating company’s design and their branding information. These watches are generally of lower quality than the original and, when they fail, the company whose name is featured on the watch is the one that will suffer damage to its reputation.

I was considering the purchase of a SevenFriday watch, but because this brand presents a style I am unfamiliar with, I felt it prudent to try out a cheap replica first.
Wish.com had one available for fifteen-dollars. The price was right, so I ordered the replica. It arrived on schedule and was well packed in bubble wrap.

Description

The case is composed of black plastic with a white plastic sheath wrapped around it. It is 13mm thick and 46mm wide. The replica weighs 62 grams (2.2 ounces).
This watch features a white dial with what appears to be a label glued to it. The outer ring of this label is silver and used to note the passing minutes. It encloses a black ring which is marked SEVENFRIDAY Industrial Series. Printing is poor, with much of the lettering faded. A silver inner ring marks the passing hours.

A rotating white disk positioned at the timepiece’s center completes one turn every sixty seconds. The dial includes two decorative subdials and a depiction of a timing wheel.

The ZL220 is powered by a Sukon PE39 quartz movement.

Its band is composed of black PU leather that is 26mm wide where it attaches to the watch, slimming to 22mm.

Specifications

Brand: Replica SevenFriday

Condition: New

Model number: ZL220

Place of origin: China

Gender: Male

Display: Analog

Movement: Sukon PE39 quartz

Battery: 377SE

Style: Industrial

Features: Hours and minutes

Dial color: White, black, and silver

Band material: PU leather

Band color: Black with white stitching

Dial window material: Glass

Case material: Plastic

Case diameter: 46mm

Case thickness: 13mm

Weight: 62 grams (2.2 ounces)

Water resistance: Splash proof only

Visual Appeal

I have reviewed several replicas that faithfully reproduced the external features of the original. Unfortunately, the ZL220 is not among this group.

The old-fashioned television shape of a SevenFriday has been adequately duplicated, and I appreciate the centerpiece, which continuously revolves. It attracts the eye.

The two rotating subdials are clearly stickers, and the manufacturer’s rendition of a fake timing wheel is among the worst effects I have ever seen. The ZL220’s strap is black and features white stitching. It matches well with the overall design of the timepiece.

Durability

Although I generally disapprove of plastic cases, this one appears to be sturdy.
This replica is powered by a Sukon PE39 quartz movement. I’ve never heard of Sukon, and, after examining this movement, can understand why. Most of the parts, including the gears, are composed of plastic. This movement’s lifespan can be measured in weeks.

The supplied PU leather strap is of mediocre quality. Sadly, it will probably outlast the watch.

Overall Impression

Replicas in this price range are usually purchased as a joke present or used to help the owner decide whether or not to buy the legitimate timepiece. This manufacturer’s attempt to visually copy a SevenFriday watch has failed miserably. The ZL220 should be avoided.

Replicas are available at several price-points. The survey below is meant to determine what price and quality are most preferred by potential purchasers.

© 2017 Walter Shillington

Comments

ziweiliu on March 22, 2018:

i like replica watch

Walter Shillington is an avid collector of mechanical watches. His reviews focus on inexpensive but often intriguing Chinese timepieces.

In my endless search for interesting timepieces to review, I recently joined Watch Gang. This company will send you a brand-new watch every month, which they guarantee is valued at considerably more than their monthly fee.

I selected the $29.99 plan, which, when shipping is included, comes to $39.98 per month.

The first watch I received was the Maurice Eberle Gambrel 20000D.

Description

Watch Gang shipped the Gambrel 2000D on the 17th of the month, and it arrived seven days later. The timepiece was strapped around a soft, black pillow and shoved inside a watch box. This item was well packed in a small cardboard box.

The Maurice Eberle Gambrel weighs in at 68 grams (2.4 ounces). It measures 44 mm across and is 13 mm thick.

A black dial is enclosed within a gold-colored, stainless-steel case. A mineral crystal hovers above. Luminous paint has not been applied to either the hands or the dial.

A Hattori PC21 quartz movement powers this timepiece. Hattori Japan is a division of Seiko that was founded in 1881 when Kintarō Hattori opened a watch and jewelry shop in Tokyo.

The watchband, composed of pigskin leather, is 22mm in width and includes a buckle that matches the color of the watch’s case.

Noted water resistance is 30 meters, which indicates this timepiece is splash resistant only.

The Manufacturer

According to several websites that sell these watches, Maurice Eberle was granted a Swiss patent for a watch movement in 1916. He went on to form the Gnomon Watch Company. Although this information is probably correct, I have been unable to verify these claims via my usual sources.

These same websites note that, 100 years later, the revolutionary ideals of Maurice Eberle and the Gnomon Watch Company have been reintroduced.

The modern Gnomon Watch Company is located in Singapore and has acquired a decent reputation. I have found references to both Maurice Eberle watches and Eberle watches; however, they appear to be separate entities.

I assume the Maurice Eberle brand is owned by a trading company. These watches are assembled in China, either from a design originated by the trading company or from one offered by the Chinese factory.

Specifications

Brand: Maurice Eberle

Model: Gambrel 20000D

Condition: New

Place of Origin: Mainland China

Gender: Male

Display: Analog

Movement: Hattori PC21 quartz

Style: Luxury

Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds

Band material: Crocodile patterned, pigskin leather

Band color: Black with gold buckle

Band width: 22mm

Dial color: Black

Dial window material: Mineral glass

Case material: Stainless-steel

Case diameter: 44mm

Case thickness: 13mm

Weight: 68 grams (2.4 ounces)

Water resistance: 3 ATM (splash resistant only)

Visual Appeal

Gold colored studs, positioned to mark the hours, have been applied to a textured black plastic dial. Large and shiny Roman Numerals mark the four, eight, and twelve o’clock positions. In typical Chinese fashion, the Roman Numeral for four is represented by IIII. The gold hands that sweep across the face are easy to pick out, even in low light.

The black leather strap includes a Maurice Eberle engraved stainless-steel buckle, which is color-matched to the timepiece’s case. This is a handsome watch.

Durability

The overall construction of the case and crystal appears to be good. This watch is splash-proof only.

The Maurice Eberle Gambrel is equipped with a Hattori PC21 movement. It keeps good time, but adjustments can be touchy, and, when doing so, care must to taken hold the watch steady. Movement will often cause the minute hand to stray out of position. This indicates poor contact between the cannon pinion (to which the minute hand is attached) and the assembly used to adjust the time when the crown is extended. These are common traits among inexpensive quartz movements.

The crocodile patterned, pigskin strap is a far better band than I expected to find in a 35-dollar watch. It will not require replacement for a lengthy period of time.

Overall Impression

The Maurice Eberle Gambrel is a great-looking watch that fits comfortably around my wrist. While I am leery of its movement, I do appreciate this timepiece’s premium leather strap.

You might also be interested in my review of the One Eleven Solar-Powered watch. It combines good styling with a premium strap and a quality movement.

Manufacturers will often focus on improving one characteristic of their watch in an effort to attract customers. If for example, a 20-dollar watch boasts water resistance of 300 meters, those interested in a cheap diver’s watch might take the plunge.

Unfortunately, in order to provide this feature, other aspects of the timepiece’s design are neglected. The following poll is designed to determine which improvement would be most likely to attract your interest.

Walter Shillington is an avid collector of mechanical watches. His reviews focus on inexpensive but often intriguing Chinese timepieces.

Cheap Digital Watches

Occasionally, I browse Wish.com and purchase an assortment of their very cheapest watches. These timepieces, when shipping is included, generally range up to five dollars apiece.

As you might guess, watches priced this low are often of poor quality. Some of these timepieces, however, are quite intriguing and worthy of a close look.

Men’s Luxury Date Digital Sport LED Watch

The first digital watch I ever owned came equipped with a LED readout. Because light emitting diodes consume a great deal of power, a button must be pushed to temporarily activate the display. With the invention of the liquid crystal display, LED watches all but disappeared.

Retro devices are popular these days, and this particular watch was designed with this in mind. Four plastic buttons protrude from a bulky, square stainless-steel case. The LED readout is fairly large and formed from sizable—if primitive appearing—red segments. This timepiece’s crystal is composed of glass and curves attractively over a black colored dial. The time, day, and month can be displayed.

This watch weighs in at 58 grams (2 ounces). Its diameter, including crown, is 39mm and it is 14mm thick.

The included strap is made either from rubber or polyurethane resin. In either case, it appears quite sturdy. The belt’s width equals that of the watch at the point where it attaches and then tapers to 24mm.

This device is an attractive timepiece that fits comfortably around the wrist. While I am an impatient man, unwilling to push a button in order to display the time, those who like its retro design will find value in this watch.

Men’s Modish Digital LCD Chronograph Watch

This is a large watch, measuring 43mm across. It is 14.75mm thick and weighs 65 grams (2.3 ounces).

The LCD chronograph features an analog-style clock face, using liquid crystal display technology to present what appears to be normal hands. Below that, the day of the week and time are presented in digital format. This would be useful for those who wish to keep track of two different time zones. The LCD chronograph is equipped with a bright green backlight that can be activated by the touch of a button.

Instructions provided by the vendor demonstrate how to set the time, date, month, timer, and alarm. I could not access the date and month but this is probably a result of my unfamiliarity with digital watches.

This timepiece is equipped with a silicon strap which measures 26mm across. It is sturdy but rather plain.

HONHX S-Sport Watch

This little sports watch is an obvious rip-off of a Skmei S-Shock. Fair enough, Skmei’s S-Shock models are uncomfortably close in design to Casio’s G-Shock line. The manufacturing quality of the HONHX, while not up to Skmei’s standard, is very good for a timepiece in this price range.

The case of this HONHX watch is composed of plastic. It is 44mm in diameter and 17mm thick. This timepiece weighs 33 grams (1.2 ounces), is available in a variety of colors, and features a backlight which provides a pleasingly blue glow. The main display provides the time and the day of the week. Month and date are also accessible, along with stopwatch and alarm functions.

The HONHX S-Sport is equipped with a polyurethane resin strap which was designed to match the color scheme of its associated timepiece. While not as sturdy as the watch straps attached to the two previously reviewed watches, this band is reasonably durable.

Like the other timepieces featured in this article, the S-Sport is rated splash-proof only.

Multi-Functional Digital F-91W Clone

Casio’s F-91W was introduced in 1991 and, because this model has proved to be extremely successful, remains in production. The F-91W’s commendable quality control and low price point account for this timepiece’s longevity.

I owned one once. After the strap busted, I stored the watch in my bathroom, using its alarm to ensure I wouldn’t spend all day soaking in the tub. Impressively, the original battery lasted six years.

This clone is equipped with a backlight which will sometimes flash red and blue before settling down to its normal green hue. Also, it lacks the Casio brand name. Aside from these discrepancies, this watch is a faithful reproduction.

The clone F-91W is a lightweight, weighing in at 21 grams (0.73 ounces). It’s diameter, if you include the pushbuttons, reaches 35.6mm. It is 9.4mm thick.

This watch’s screen displays the time, day of the week, and day of the month. It includes both timer and alarm functions.

The band appears to be composed of polyurethane resin. Its width ranges from 22mm, where it attaches to the timepiece, to 16mm.

While the clone F-91W is not to my taste, it might be of interest to those who like the Casio F91W but are too cheap to buy one.

Overall Impression

Usually, when I review a set of five-dollar watches, at least one of them falls apart during my tests. This group—when you consider their purchase price—has proved to be remarkably sturdy. Which of these watches is the best? If you prefer a luxury style timepiece, I recommend the Men’s Modish Digital LCD Chronograph Watch. Those the like sports watches should take a close look at the HONHX.

I use surveys to help determine which watches I review. Please fill in the poll below.

© 2017 Walter Shillington

Walter Shillington is an avid collector of mechanical watches. His reviews focus on inexpensive but often intriguing Chinese timepieces.

I have been impressed with the quality of two Parnis men’s watches I have recently purchased and reviewed. Since Christmas is fast approaching, I ordered a pair of their women’s timepieces. They arrived well packed and on schedule.

Description

Both of these watches are similar in design. They weigh 54 grams (1.93 ounces), are 12 mm thick, and measure 33 mm across.

The dials are color-coded to match their straps. One is purple. The other is labeled orange but, to my eyes, comes across as brown. What appears to be four tiny diamonds mark the three, six, nine, and twelve-hour positions. The dial is protected by a sapphire crystal.

Silver hour and minute hands match their stainless steel case. One version of this timepiece includes a rose-gold plated case.

These watches are not equipped with a second hand. That’s okay with me. If the passing seconds were that important, I would consider myself far too busy.

The bezel design of the purple watch is relatively simple. Parnis is engraved at both the top and bottom, and a stylized diamond is engraved on either side.

The orange watch’s bezel features a large number of what one vendor describes as inlaid diamonds. These reflect quite nicely in the light. Possibly real diamonds were used in the production of these watches, but, for the purposes of this review, I will assume that they are composed of cut glass.

The back plates of each of these timepieces are attached to the main unit by four screws. A metal piece, which, for lack of a better word I will describe as a "handle," lays flush at the center of the backplate. This can be easily be pivoted into a standing position and used to attach a pin or a silver chain. If you wish to use this timepiece in that manner, the leather one-piece strap can be removed by loosening the four screws and pulling the strap free.

A snap-on caseback is hidden beneath the backplate. This conceals a Ronda one jewel quartz movement. The movement is composed of Swiss parts which were assembled at Ronda’s factory in Indonesia.

The one-piece straps are composed of soft and flexible leather and utilize clasps of the polished Pre-V Buckle variety.

The Manufacturer

Parnis is a small Chinese watch company, trademarked by Xiao Jiam Hong of Guangzhou.

Parnis designs their own timepieces and assembles them at their manufacturing facility at Tong De Wei, Guangzhou. The various components are contracted out from companies such as Seagull, Miyota, and Ronda. Fu Yuan Xin manufacturers their cases.

Parnis produces both mechanical and quartz driven timepieces. Some of these watches are intended to closely resemble their Swiss competitors’ more expensive luxury timepieces. Other designs, such as that of the H2110 Chronograph, are fresh and original.

Parnis has acquired a good reputation due to their use of superior components and respectable quality control.

Specifications

Brand: Parnis

Condition: New

Place of Origin: Guangzhou, China

Gender: Female

Display: Analog

Movement: Ronda quartz

Style: Luxury

Band material: Leather

Band color: Purple or Orange

Band width: 14 mm

Clasp type: Pre-V Buckle

Dial color: Matches color of strap

Dial window material: Sapphire Crystal

Case material: Stainless steel

Case diameter: 33 mm

Case thickness: 12 mm

Weight: 54 grams (1.93 ounces)

Water resistance: 3 ATM (splash resistant only)

Visual Appeal

Although small in diameter, these timepieces are quite thick and very shiny. The matching dial and strap provide a pleasing appearance.

The ability to remove the strap and either pin the watch to a blouse or secure it to a chain allows the wearer to mix and match more effectively than with a normal wristwatch.

Durability

These watches are equipped with Ronda, one jewel movements. This Swiss manufacturer has established an enviable reputation in regard to accuracy and durability.

The stainless steel cases appear very solid and I feel that the Parnis design team was wise to fit these timepieces with both a caseback and a back plate. The high-quality sapphire crystal is appreciated.

I really like the leather straps provided with these watches. I did note, however, a quality control issue. The buckle tong of the purple strap was placed on the wrong side of the buckle. If I didn’t own the proper pin removal tool, this situation would have resulted in an expensive visit to the jeweler.

Overall Impression

These Parnis women’s watches are of higher quality than expected for timepieces in the fifty to seventy-five dollar price range. If you appreciate their design, these watches are worthy of strong consideration.

While both of these timepieces are similarly designed, the bezel of the purple watch is much simpler than that of the orange timepiece. In an attempt to gauge my reader’s taste, I am conducting a survey. Please take the time to fill in the poll below.

© 2017 Walter Shillington

Walter Shillington is an avid collector of mechanical watches. His reviews focus on inexpensive but often intriguing Chinese timepieces.

I find that most watches designed for women tend to be small and plain, large and gaudy, or meant to be connected to an iPhone. And almost all women’s watches are powered by a quartz movement.

That presented a problem because I wanted a cute and cheerful mechanical watch that I could give to my equally cute and cheerful niece.

After hours of searching, I finally found a suitable timepiece at dhGate. The price was right; the Winner U8060 sells for about thirty dollars, so I put in an order.

Description

The Winner U8060 arrived securely packaged and on schedule. This watch weighs in at 59 grams (2.1 ounces). It is 13 mm thick, and the timepiece’s dial measures 38 mm across.

The gold alloy metal case comes equipped with a stainless steel caseback. The crown is located at the twelve o’clock position.

This watch features large and colorful numbers arranged around the edge of its pitch-black dial. Gold colored hands are coated with luminous paint.

A glass window at the back provides a view of the automatic movement. This watch’s hardex crystal is slightly concave and reflects light attractively.

The included black PU leather band is 19 mm wide. It has an alligator skin pattern and a silver buckle.

This watch can be purchased with a white dial and with a silver-colored case.

The Manufacturer

Winner is a division of the Guangzhou Ruixue Watch Company Limited. (Forsining watch company limited). Their manufacturing plant is located in GuangZhou China and this company’s products are marketed under the brand names Forsining, Winner, and Jaragar.

Specifications

Brand: Winner

Condition: New without tag or box

Part number: U8060

Place of origin: GuangZhou, China

Gender: Female

Display: Analog

Movement: Automatic

Style: Casual fashion

Features: large colorful numbers

Band material: PU leather

Band width: 19mm

Dial color: Black

Dial window material: Hardex

Case material: Alloy

Dial diameter: 38mm

Case thickness: 13mm

Weight: 59 grams (2.1 ounces)

Water resistance: Splash resistant

Visual Appeal

The gold case with its dramatically oversized lugs contrasts well against the black colored dial. The numbers circling the dial are also very large and presented in a variety of colors. This treatment is strongly reminiscent of offerings from Franck Muller.

The window that pierces the caseback allows a view of the U8060’s movement. While this mechanism is fairly run of the mill, it is always cool to watch a balance wheel whirling back and forth.

The strap comes equipped with a silver buckle. This does not harmonize well with the gold sheen of the watch’s case.

Accuracy

Over a seven-day period, the Winner U8060 gained five minutes. That works out to 43 seconds per day. While not particularly accurate, this figure is in line with similarly priced timepieces.

The self-winding mechanism is substandard. Unless the wearer is very active, this watch will require winding every two to three days.

Durability

In an effort to provide innovative styling, the crown was relocated to the twelve o’clock position. This is a treatment normally reserved for pocket watches. In this case, the strap interferes with the wearer’s ability to wind the watch. It can be wound, but in doing so, inadvertent pressure might be applied against the stem to which the crown is attached. This could eventually cause the stem to break.

The Winner U8060 incorporates a mechanical movement. After three to five years of use, this type of movement will require cleaning.

The included strap is composed of polyurethane and is of mediocre quality. If worn daily, its lifespan can be measured in months.

Overall Impression

While this watch does not utilize a quality movement, the price is right and its design is appealing. For many women, the Winner U8060 would be a very nice accessory.

Manufacturers are continually attempting to balance practicality with style. Please fill in the accompanying survey, which helps me determine how important style is to prospective purchasers.

© 2017 Walter Shillington

Walter Shillington is an avid collector of mechanical watches. His reviews focus on inexpensive but often intriguing Chinese timepieces.

While checking out the eBay auction site, I came across the Parnis H2210 chronograph. I have no practical use for that particular feature but found the timepiece’s style to be both attractive and unique. I submitted a lowball bid before shutting down my computer and heading off to work.

To my surprise, no one else bothered to bid, and I picked up a cool timepiece for just over a third of the normal selling price. Either my taste in watches is terrible—I do like them flashy—or I got lucky.

Description

I purchased the Parnis H2110 chronograph from eBay. It arrived well packed and on schedule. These watches range in price from $75 to $120.00.

This timepiece is quite heavy, weighing in at 144 grams (5.1 ounces). Its diameter measures 48mm, and this unit is 16mm thick. The H2110 comes equipped with a thick, 24mm leather band.

The case is composed of stainless steel. The caseback—perhaps better described as a backplate—is attached to the case by six tiny screws. There are cut-outs on both sides of the backplate, which, in an interesting quirk of design, are intended to accommodate and secure the watch’s strap.

A flat, scratch-proof mineral glass crystal hovers above a sandwich-style dial. The upper dial is colored red. It is pierced by four large holes, allowing a view of the lower dial. The hour hand, minute hand, and elapsed seconds indicator sweep across this dial.

The lower dial is colored black and supports three subdials. One subdial functions as the second hand, another displays elapsed time in minutes, and the third is a twelve-hour timer. The top-right cut-out displays branding information.

This timepiece’s crown is flanked by two push buttons. The upper button stops and starts the timer. The lower button returns all chronometer indicators to the start position.

In an effort to provide a pleasing effect and provide additional strength, both sections of the leather strap are secured to the watch case by two pins. To accommodate this, the strap loops are larger than normal. Stuffing is added to maintain the loop’s shape and provide additional security.

The Parnis H2110 is powered by a Miyota 0S10 quartz movement. A Sony SR927W battery was included.

The Manufacturer

Parnis is a small Chinese watch company, trademarked by Xiao Jiam Hong of Guangzhou.

Parnis designs their own timepieces and assembles them at their manufacturing facility at Tong De Wei, Guangzhou. The various components are contracted out from companies such as Seagull, Miyota, and Dixmount. Fu Yuan Xin manufacturers their cases.

Parnis produces both mechanical and quartz driven timepieces. Some of these watches are intended to closely resemble their Swiss competitors’ more expensive luxury timepieces. Other designs, such as that of the H2110, are fresh and original.

Parnis has acquired a good reputation due to its use of superior components and respectable quality control.

Specifications

Brand: Parnis

Model: H2110

Condition: New

Place of Origin: Guangzhou, China

Gender: Male

Display: Analog

Movement: Miyota 0S10 quartz

Style: Luxury

Features: chronograph

Band material: Leather

Band color: Black

Band width: 24mm

Clasp type: Buckle

Upper dial color: Red

Lower dial color: Black

Dial window material: Hardened mineral glass

Case material: Stainless steel

Case diameter: 48mm

Case thickness: 16mm

Weight: 144 grams (5.1 ounces)

Water resistance: 3 ATM (splash resistant only)

Visual Appeal

The sandwich-style dial works effectively, adding depth to the timepiece. The black subdials show well against the red foreground, creating a dramatic effect.

Probably unintentionally, the plastic gears fitted snugly around each crown add a whimsical flavor reminiscent of steampunk.

The strap, which is thick and luxurious, fits into slots cut into the base plate. This provides a touch of elegance without sacrificing comfort.

Accuracy

The Parnis H2110 is controlled by a quartz movement and is very accurate.

The pointer for elapsed seconds is positioned where the second hand is normally located. This allows the user to maintain a precise account of passing seconds. The minute and hour elapsed time subdials, while perfectly functional, are more designed for beauty than for practicality.

Durability

As expected, considering the reputation of the original manufacturer, the timepiece’s movement reacts smoothly when being adjusted and appears to be of high quality.

Parnis utilizes conventional machine processes rather than metal injection molding in the construction of their watch cases. In addition, this manufacturer makes use of 316L marine-grade stainless steel. According to my sources, if you desire a stronger case, your sole option is Rolex.

While quality control is generally high, I did come across a silly mistake. One section of the strap had been installed inside out.

I also experienced sizing problems when tightening the watch’s strap. One position was slightly too loose, allowing the heavy timepiece to slip. The next position proved very tight. I like a snug fit but, eventually, the stitching that secured one of the strap’s end loops gave way, and the watch fell to the floor.

I replaced the strap with a heavy-duty HENGRC unit. I was unsure how securely the new strap would fit the timepiece because I could only make use of the outer pin sockets of the watch case. The experiment proved successful. Aftermarket straps can be safely attached to this timepiece.

This watch is rated 3 ATM. It is splash-proof only.

Overall Impression

While few people require a chronograph, this timepiece features innovative styling that will attract favorable attention. The H2110 and its siblings are intended for those who crave a luxury watch but, financially, are not in the position to purchase one. The Parnis H2110 chronometer is recommended.

The chronograph function is a feature that can greatly increase the cost of a timepiece. In the survey below, I am attempting to determine how important the ability to time events is to the average purchaser of a watch.

Questions & Answers

Question: How do I change the battery I unscrewed the 4 screws on the backplate but it will not move?

Answer: There are actually six screws. Check under the strap where it leaves the base. You will find two additional screws.

© 2017 Walter Shillington

Walter Shillington is an avid collector of mechanical watches. His reviews focus on inexpensive but often intriguing Chinese timepieces.

The History of Panerai

In 1860, Giovanni Panerai opened a watchmaker’s shop in Florence, Italy and, by the end of the nineteenth century, had established ties with many leaders from the Swiss horology heartland.

Panerai morphed into a research and development orientated company, specializing in component fabrication, instrument design, and mechanical engineering. They won many contracts with the Italian Navy and developed a radium based paint for use with navigational equipment and watches.

During the 1920s, Panerai began to work with Rolex, modifying the Swiss manufacturer’s waterproof Oyster case for use in military diver’s watches. These timepieces were very popular during the second world war.

In 1956 Panerai and Rolex ended their cooperative venture, and the company’s instrument line entered a period of decline. By 1972 Panerai had discontinued its watchmaking activities, concentrating on the development of dive tools, aerospace components, and radio equipment.

Panerai changed direction in 1993, offering a selection of consumer watches. The luxury market, however, is extremely difficult to enter and, with their lack of a distribution base, the Panerai brand appeared destined for failure.

Luckily, Sylvester Stallone discovered the brand while shooting the action film “Daylight” in Rome. Stallone liked Panerai so much, he placed a succession of mass orders for custom “Slytech” branded Luminors. These watches were soon seen wrapped around the wrists of many of Sylvester Stallone’s friends—including Arnold Schwarzenegger. And a watch worn by both Rocky Balboa and The Terminator is macho enough for any man.

By 1997, Panerai’s fortunes were improving, and a strong market had developed for large diving watches. At this point, the Vendome Group—now Richemont, S.A.—decided to purchase Panerai. Officine Panerai joined the larger company and, in doing so, gained access to significant marketing, product development, and distribution resources. Richemont International S.A. was incorporated in 1972 and is based in Villars-sur-Glane, Switzerland. It operates as a subsidiary of Compagnie Financiere Richemont SA.

The popularity of Panerai timepieces has increased significantly over the years. Between 1993 and 1997, they sold an estimated two thousand watches. In 2013, they sold over 70,000 units.

The watch under review today is a replica. Most internet stores avoid selling replicas because these watches are produced without regard to copyright laws. The factories that manufacture them steal both the originating company’s design and their branding information. These timepieces are generally of lower quality than the original and, when they fail, the company whose name is featured on the watch is the one whose reputation will suffer.

I ordered the replica Panerai as a Christmas present for my brother-in-law. Since this type of timepiece often includes a woefully inaccurate mechanical movement, I chose a quartz-powered unit.

Specialized replica websites sell the Panerai Luminor Marina for about $150.00 which, sadly, is out of my price range. At the time, DHgate offered them for ninety dollars. I checked out Wish.com and discovered they stocked the same watch and had priced them at fifteen dollars. I immediately submitted an order.

Description

The watch arrived, well protected in a Styrofoam. It looked so good, I returned to Wish.com and purchased a second timepiece for myself.

These replicas consist of a quartz movement fitted inside a black-painted metal case. White numbers and indicators are clearly visible against the matt-black dial. Luminous paint is utilized, but it is not particularly effective.

Both watches include a date display. One timepiece featured a second-hand subdial.

Thick PU leather straps and a version of Panerai’s signature crown protector are fitted to each of these replicas.

Specifications

Brand: Panerai Luminor Marina (Replica)

Condition: New

Model number: Firenze 1860 Diver’s Professional (Replica)

Place of origin: China

Gender: Male

Display: Analog

Movement: Chinese manufactured quartz

Style: Luxury

Features: Crown protector

Functions: Date display

Band material: PU leather

Band width: 24mm

Dial color: Black

Dial window material: Glass

Case material: Metal alloy

Case diameter: 52mm including crown

Case thickness: 14.5mm

Weight: 79 grams (2.8 ounces)

Water resistance: Splash resistant only

Visual Appeal

This is one example of where the actual watch outshines the photographs used to advertise it.

It looks great on my wrist—I like large watches—and I found the strap fit comfortably. Time can be easily determined due to the contrast between the black dial and the white indicators. The date window is smaller than I prefer, but this is a common quirk among luxury watches.

I was impressed by the straps, which were quite thick and conveyed the impression that they were composed of real leather.

Durability

My test replica worked great for about two weeks. Then tiny blotches of gray appeared on the watch strap as the brown leather-look covering began to flake away. While the strap is durable, most owners will quickly replace it for cosmetic reasons. I swapped mine with a heavy-duty leather band from HENGRC.

The case also began to exhibit traces of wear and tear. Minor bangs and scrapes—I am not considered well-coordinated—produced scratches through which the dull metal case could be seen.

When Panerai began to build diver’s watches for the Italian Navy, they discovered that screw-down crowns suffered from cross-threading and would sometimes leak. To alleviate this problem, they developed a crown protector that surrounded the crown and fitted it with a lever that would secure the crown snugly against a rubber gasket.

These replicas are equipped with a similar device. I’m a knob twister/ button pusher type of fellow and, over the first couple of weeks, I played with the lever of my test watch quite a bit. Eventually, I wore a layer of metal from the lever at the point where it pushes against the crown. Once this happened, the lever began to flip back and forth whenever I moved my arm.

After two months of wear, the test watch began to lose time. The second hand worked well, but the minute and hour hands faltered and eventually stopped turning. I pulled off the case-back and examined the interior of the timepiece. The movement is large, and most of the moving parts are composed of plastic. This movement was not designed to last more than a few months.

For fifteen dollars, I purchased a fun little watch that I expected would quickly die. The problem with replicas is that they all look very much identical to the timepiece they have copied. That $150.00 replica Panerai sold in a specialized store could be far better than the one I tested… or it could be exactly the same watch. You don’t know.

Overall Impression

This replica Panerai Luminor Marina is a great looking but poorly manufactured timepiece. If you are interested in purchasing a genuine Panerai and want to check out the look and feel before spending your money, a cheap replica might be a worthwhile investment. But this watch won’t last, so don’t pay more than twenty dollars.

© 2017 Walter Shillington

Walter Shillington is an avid collector of mechanical watches. His reviews focus on inexpensive but often intriguing Chinese timepieces.

While browsing Wish.com for a set of flashlight batteries, I came across the Paidu 58919. Normally, I purchase bulky, complicated watches, packed with as many features as possible.

Complicated, this Paidu is not. It’s a simple analog timepiece, and, except for the trademark painted onto its dial, the only color utilized is silver.

I liked the design and decided to acquire one for review.

Description

The Paidu 58919 features a Japanese quartz movement shoved inside a bright silver metal case. Its case-back is composed of stainless steel.

Twelve tiny studs attached to the bezel are used to represent the hours. The brushed metal dial is bare except for the Paidu trademark. Three bright silver hands stand out against the dial, allowing time to be easily ascertained in low-light conditions. Luminous paint is not utilized.

Like its closest competitor, the North N-6009 Sports Watch, this timepiece features a Japanese quartz movement. In this case, the movement is Citizen’s Miyota 7T35. China is also marked on the movement, indicating that some Miyota products are manufactured in China.

This watch incorporates a stainless-steel mesh strap, which fastens in the same manner as a standard leather watchband. Mesh straps are very durable because their structure is held together by intertwined metal loops rather than pins. The free loops, used to secure the end of the strap, are composed of metal. While sturdy compared to those fitted onto a leather band, these loops are difficult to work with.

I purchased this watch from Wish.com. Total price, including shipping, came to seven dollars.

The Manufacturer

Information concerning Paidu is difficult to obtain. Several Chinese wholesalers supply this brand, but I have been unable to track down the original manufacturer. More than likely, Paidu is a marketing company that designs timepieces and hires traditional watch factories to construct the final product. According to Tradmarkia, Paidu has not been trademarked.

Paidu designed timepieces fall into three basic categories. Some models, such as the 58919, stress simplicity. Others feature half-hidden hands. Many of their products are similar in style to that of a jump watch.

Specifications

Brand: Paidu

Condition: New

Part/Model number: Paidu 58919

Place of origin: China

Gender: Male

Display: Analog

Movement: Miyota 7T35

Battery: Sony SR6S6SW

Style: Luxury

Features: Mesh watch strap

Functions: Time of day

Band material: Stainless steel mesh with standard buckle

Band color: Silver

Band width: 20 mm

Dial color: Brushed silver

Dial window material: Glass

Case material: Silver metal (possibly stainless steel)

Case diameter: 43 mm, including crown

Case thickness: 8.3 mm

Weight: 57 grams (2 ounces)

Water resistance: Probably 3ATM. Splash resistant only

Visual Appeal

Despite its low cost, the Paidu 58919 exudes an aurora of elegance. The dial’s brushed metal finish provides an excellent contrast to the shiny surfaces of the hands and case. To complete the color coordination of silver on silver, a mesh watch band is included.

Their design is obviously effective. A vendor on Amazon is advertising this timepiece for four times its normal asking price.

The Paidu 58919 will go well with whatever clothing you should choose to wear.

Durability

The movement, a quartz 7T35 manufactured by Miyota, works well. Time can be adjusted easily, without sloppiness.

The Paidu 58919 features a metal case that appears quite solid. The mesh strap is composed of stainless steel and should last for several years.

Specifications for this timepiece did not include information concerning the crystal. Normally they are composed of scratch-resistant, hardened mineral glass, but, in this instance, that might not be the case. During testing, the crystal suffered no damage.

I could find no data stipulating water resistance. Since an O-ring was secured around the Paidu’s case-back, I suspect a rating of 3ATM would be appropriate. Consider this watch splash-proof.

Overall Impression

The Paidu 58919 is powered by a decent Miyota movement and includes a rugged mesh watchband. If you like Paidu’s elegance through simplicity concept, this timepiece is worth serious consideration.

Watch companies strive to improve sales by upgrading different elements of their timepieces. In the following poll, I am attempting to determine what changes are most likely to result in increased sales. Please take the time to fill in this survey.

Questions & Answers

Question: How do I replace a battery in a Paidu 58919?

Answer: This watch comes with a snap-on caseback. If you check closely, somewhere along the edge of the caseback, there is a groove where the edge of a knife, a jewelers's screwdriver, or preferably, a special removal tool, can be inserted. Apply outward pressure and the caseback should snap off. Then replace the battery and snap the caseback back in place. Note that sometimes it is difficult to press the caseback into place. There is also a special tool that makes this process easy but, considering the price of the Paidu watch, you would probably not want to invest in this tool.

© 2017 Walter Shillington

Walter Shillington is an avid collector of mechanical watches. His reviews focus on inexpensive but often intriguing Chinese timepieces.

One of the first watches I reviewed was the Kronen & Söhne’s KS04. I really liked this timepiece and decided to purchase another watch from this company. I chose the KS069, which retails for $34.99 on Amazon.

The timepiece arrived earlier than expected but was, unfortunately, broken. The dealer promptly dispatched a replacement.

Description

Most Chinese watches arrive tag-less and wrapped in a layer of bubble wrap. The KS069 was packed in a proper watch box lined with foam. Included were the watch, a buffing cloth, tag, international maintenance guarantee card, and an instruction manual.

This automatic watch includes what is described as a tourbillon cage. This infers the cage rotates and that the timepiece’s balance wheel and escapement are contained within. This type of gravity-defying mechanism is fitted into a selection of expensive watches and used to improve accuracy.

The KS069 is not a Tourbillon. What Kronen & Söhne did was cut a hole in the dial, exposing the balance wheel. Since this wheel and its associated hair spring are bouncing back and forth at a rate of eight times a second, it is fun to watch.

Two subdials are located near the top of the watch face. The left dial displays the time in twenty-four-hour format. The second features a rotating dial onto which the sun and moon are painted.

The KS069’s third subdial is crammed between the center of the face and the opening that displays the timing wheel. A tiny, bright red pointer indicates the passing seconds.

Silver hands are easily identifiable against this watch’s white dial and are coated with luminous paint. The dial is nicely engraved, and four shiny studs mark several of the hours. Time is adjusted by pulling out and rotating the crown.

Tom Adelstein authored an interesting article concerning KS watches. Mr. Adelstein notes that Liaoning Watch Factory in Andong, China manufactures movements for Kronen & Söhne. I removed the back of the watch but could not confirm the manufacturer of the movement. Kronen & Söhne is engraved on the rotor, which indicates this mechanism was produced for this specific watch company.

The band is reasonably thick and constructed of PU leather. This is not a band you will need to replace right away.

Manufacturer

Kronen & Söhne is a German company established in 1992. They are run by NCN Group, a company that specializes in marketing. Other brands controlled by NCN consist of SHARK, HOTARU, AGENT.X, and TAYLOR COLE. NCN Group operates under the umbrella of SOWATCHES and appears to be based in the orient. The official KS website no longer in operation.

Kronen & Söhne do not actually operate a watch factory. They purchase the required components from a variety of Chinese manufacturers. These parts, in turn, are assembled into watches and packaged by other companies.

KS watches are sold via internet vendors and are widely available through outlets such as eBay and Amazon.

Specifications

Brand: Kronen & Söhne

Condition: New with box and tags

Part number: KS069 Navigator Series

Model year: 2013

Place of origin: China

Gender: Male

Display: Analog

Movement: Automatic

Style: Sport

Features: Open heart dial displaying balance assembly

Functions: 24-hour time and rotating sun/moon display

Band material: PU Leather

Band width: 24mm

Dial color: White

Dial window material type: Hardex

Case material: Stainless steel

Case diameter: 48.5mm (including crown)

Case thickness: 15mm

Weight: 80gm

Water resistance: 3 ATM (Not suitable for swimming, diving, shower etc.)

Visual Appeal

The KS069 features an attractive dial, although I found the heavy use of unnecessary numbering to be a distraction. A flat crystal ensures glare is kept to a minimum, and the glass cover on the case-back allows a view of the watch’s rotor. I found the rising sun and moon, viewed against the white backdrop of the main dial, to be quite striking.

Accuracy

The twenty-four-hour clock and day/night indicator worked fine.

I tested the KS069 in my Diplomat watch winder for ten days. During this period, the timepiece gained an average of 71 seconds per day. Accuracy is extremely poor.

After being removed from the winder, I measured how long the watch continued to keep time. Power reserve works out to 27 hours.

Durability

The original test watch arrived broken. I suspect the problem was associated with the main spring or gear assembly. The replacement KS069 functioned properly but accuracy proved poor. These difficulties suggest less than adequate quality control.

The watch case is composed of stainless steel and glass surfaces are scratch resistant. There is noticeable sloppiness when adjusting the time, however, this does not affect operation.

The band, while composed of PU leather, is of reasonable quality and should last for several months.

Overall Impression

While support at Kronen & Söhne is extremely good, this model suffers from a lack of quality control and exhibits poor accuracy. The KS069 is not recommended.

Unlike many Chinese watch companies, Kronen & Söhne makes the effort to package their timepieces in watch boxes and provide tags and documentation. The following poll is an attempt to gauge how important packaging is in relationship to the extra costs the manufacturer must pass on to its customers.

Questions & Answers

Question: How do I set the current date?

Answer: Normally with mechanical watches, you pull out the crown to the first position and turn it either clockwise or counterclockwise to adjust the date. Generally, you adjust the time of an automatic watch by pulling the crown fully out. This particular watch, however, is not capable of displaying the date.

© 2017 Walter Shillington

Comments

Frank Napoli on April 17, 2020:

I have a AS161 Aviator ...I am trying to contact to register my product for warranty ....sight not available ...anyone have suggestions

Walter Shillington (author) from Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada on August 15, 2019:

I would like to note, Manny Ferreira, that there are some very good watch manufacturers in China; Parnis, for example, is an excellent brand.

Manny Ferreira on August 15, 2019:

I had purchased 3, different models. All automatic, to be used as a gifts. The one very much like the one you show, last 5 weeks! Stop and died..The others last less than 5 weeks. What a shame! I was very embarrassed What a rip-of. I was to naive, because i did not know nothing about watches. Also I didn't now they were made in China! They looks so nice!....Made in China...never. I have learned my lesson

Walter Shillington (author) from Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada on February 14, 2019:

Hi Afeet. To be fair, Tom was commenting on a different model of Kronen & Sohne watch. The KS069 is an automatic. It's just not a very good one.

Rick on September 21, 2018:

The timing is very easy to regulate ! Youtube gives easy videos and you will get good timing. It may take a few times in 24 hours but you'll get there .Fix the timing and a great watch is on you wrist.

Col.Rapr

Robert J Ganshorn on June 29, 2018:

Thank you for this thoughtful review.

I enjoy writing about the history of watchmaking. Watches are quite the impressive engineering feat when you stop to think about it.

Watches are seen by many as relics of a bygone era when people didn’t have phones and had to communicate via carrier pigeon. Sure, nowadays everyone and their dog has the time on their cellphones, but that doesn’t mean watches are obsolete. Many people think that watches are simple objects.

They aren’t. Back then, watches didn’t even run on batteries. It was complex enough to have the gears turning and springs doing their thing just to tell the time. However, some watchmakers decided that was too easy, and they added their own unique spins to their creations. Here are ten watches that are technologically marvelous, and none of them require a battery.

10. Arnold & Son HM Double Hemisphere Perpetual Moon

Watchmakers don’t like to be simple when it comes to names, as you’ll find out when you read this list. Arnold & Son released the HM Double Hemisphere Perpetual Moon last year, and as you may have guessed, this watch has some lunar influences.

It features a moon phase complication, which means that aside from just telling you how long you have to wait before you can go home, it also tells you the phase of the moon. Unlike other watches that feature the phase of the moon, the Perpetual Moon doubles down by showing the lunar phases for both the Northern and Southern Hemispheres, hence the two golden disks that represent the moon. When you turn the watch over, there’s a third moon to be found, this time displaying the eight stages of the moon’s revolution around Earth.

The moon phase mechanism is accurate to one day in 122 years, meaning you’d have to die first before it gets its timing wrong. Even then, it would be easy to correct the mechanism thanks to a corrector. Not that you’d be alive to use it.

9. Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon

Patek Philippe is part of the supposed Holy Trinity of watchmakers, alongside fellow Swiss brands Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin. While Patek is not often the first brand people think of when thinking of innovative engineering, they’ve quietly created an impressive timepiece.

In 2013, Patek unveiled the Sky Moon Tourbillon, which is claimed to be their most complicated wristwatch ever. It features 13 different complications, such as a perpetual calendar (a type of calendar that can tell you the day, date, month, and occasionally even the year, all without having to be adjusted once set). It also features a minute repeater, which means it can play different tones and chimes, making it possible to know the time just by listening to it.

That’s just on the front, though. If you turn the watch over, you’d see the northern sky, and the movement of the moon and even the stars. This whole thing is encased in an ornately designed case of white gold, and it’s carved by hand.

8. Breguet Classique Chronometrie 7727

Magnetism is usually bad for watches. It can make them run fast and affect movement accuracy, so it is recommended that you keep your watch away from magnets. Different steps can be taken to avoid magnetism, such as surrounding the movement with a soft iron clasp to prevent the formation of magnetic fields. Swiss watchmaker Breguet decided that they weren’t going to let anything as simple as a force of nature mess with their craft.

By using silicon in the movement of the 7727, Breguet was able to negate the adverse effects magnetism would have on their watch. Then they upped the ante by actually putting a magnet inside the watch, just because they felt like it. Finally, the movement achieved a speed of 10 Hz, or 72,000 oscillations per hour, and to show it off, there’s a sub-dial on the watch featuring a hand that just sort of spins around really fast.

7. Ulysse Nardin Grand Deck Marine Tourbillon

The Ulysse Nardin Grand Deck Marine Tourbillon is a mouthful to say, and it will cost you a pretty penny. It costs $280,000, but it looks far from it. It’s a surprisingly understated watch for the cost, but don’t let that fool you; this bad boy still packs quite a punch.

The watch clearly strays away from the standard look. Instead of the traditional three hand setup, the Grand Deck has a jumping hour complication (a digital display for the hours), and the minute hand is anchored at the top of the dial, and it is pulled across the dial by nanowires called Dyneema fibre, and they’re stronger than steel. The motion of the hand is meant to resemble the boom of a ship, and the rest of the watch is also heavily inspired by sailing.

The watch also has a tourbillon, which is a spinning cage that holds the escapement and the balance wheel. The spinning is meant to counter the adverse effects that gravity may have on a watch’s movement, but they’re very hard to make, and it takes a very skilled watchmaker to handle one.

6. A. Lange & Sohne Zeitwerk Decimal Strike

Some watchmakers like to stick to analog displays for their watches. That’s cool and dandy, but to be innovative, you have to push the envelope. German watchmaker A. Lange & Sohne did just that with the Zeitwerk Decimal Strike.

The time is displayed with three disks, each with numbers printed on them. Every minute, ten minutes, and hour, the disks rotate, allowing the numbers to seemingly jump to display the correct time. The engineering required for such a feat is immensely complicated, and when a watch is complicated, it’s really complicated.

Aside from the pseudo-digital display, the Zeitwerk Decimal Strike also features a chiming mechanism that sounds the time at 10-minute intervals, just in case you’re dead set on having people notice what’s on your wrist.

5. FP Journe Vagabondage III Jumping Seconds

The Zeitwerk Decimal Strike is incredibly complex, there’s no doubt about it. However, FP Journe decided they weren’t going to let some Germans beat them. Enter the Vagabondage III Jumping Seconds. While most watches display seconds with the use of the second hand, someone at FP Journe decided that the whole “second hand” shtick was for amateurs.

The Vagabondage III seriously ups the ante by having the seconds displayed digitally. Two disks rotate to display the seconds, and these are powered by a constant-force mechanism that releases energy every second to keep the display running. It’s hard enough to produce a jumping hours complication, but a jumping seconds complication is so needlessly excessive that it’s almost laughable.

4. Greubel Forsey Grande Sonnerie

Watchmakers really like their large numbers, which is why it shouldn’t be surprising that the Greubel Forsey Grande Sonnerie requires more than 935 parts to be assembled. To put that into perspective, 935 is only 65 numbers away from 1,000, which is the first truly big number that people know.

Greubel Forsey filed two patents while making this watch, so it’s sort of a big deal. All that effort went into making a watch with a 72-hour power reserve, multiple striking mechanisms, and a mode indicator. The mode indicator lets you know which mode the watch is in (surprise, surprise). There’s the Grande Sonnerie mode, which strikes hours and quarters, Petite Sonnerie mode where the watch strikes every hour, and Silent, which is pretty self-explanatory.

In a continuation of the brand’s infatuation with large numbers, only 5 to 8 of these watches will be made every year.

3. MB&F HM6

The MB&F HM6 looks like a spaceship, mainly due to the fact that it draws inspiration from a spaceship in a Japanese anime. That is not a joke.

This is one of the only watches in the world that has a turbine in it because most watchmakers don’t want their customers flying off into the stratosphere. The two turbines on the watch help regulate the winding system. Meanwhile, time is read on two rotating balls at the bottom half of the watch’s “face.”

Some versions of the watch feature a skeletonized dial, which means you can see all the gears turning and working. However, all versions have a tourbillon smack in the center of the watch, and if that wasn’t overcompensating enough, the tourbillon also has a retractable shield, just in case you wanted to be modest while wearing a 50mm watch on your wrist. To top it all off, there are 10 different domed sapphire crystals used in this watch.

Less than 100 of these watches were made so that only a few people will get to look like supervillains with these strapped to their wrists.

2. Franck Muller Secret Hours

When you wear a watch, people will no doubt ask you about the time. It happens. If you find these people annoying to no end, then the Franck Muller Secret Hours is for you.

The Secret Hours is instantly recognizable by its unique case shape and crazy numbers on the dial. With such a loud, attention-grabbing watch, it’s easy to feel as if the name “Secret Hours” is a misnomer. It most certainly is not.

The watch will only display the time with the use of a presser. Activate it, and the hands move forward to reveal how much further your lunch break is. Let go of the presser, and the hands return to their position at 12. Make no mistake about it, this is an engineering marvel. The amount of energy and power needed to constantly move the hands is crazy. Even crazier is that the watch still keeps track of time even while the hands are stationary. This watch is for those who love mechanical engineering or even those who just like to be jerks to people asking for the time.

1. Van Cleef & Arpels Midnight Planetarium

If you look at this watch, you’ll notice the absolute lack of hands on the dial. Instead, this watch decided to be a full-blown planetarium, with 6 rotating orbs meant to symbolize the first 6 planets of our solar system.

That may not seem like a big deal, but the orbs make their revolutions in real-time. This means that the Mercury stone will move around the dial once every 88 days. The Earth stone will make a complete revolution once a year. If you have absolutely nothing to do for a very long time, just watch the dial. In 29 years, the Saturn orb will have made one revolution.

There’s also another feature hidden in this absurdly accurate watch. You can designate a date, and on that date, the Earth stone will align with a star on the crystal, which is a nice poetic touch.

Only 20—30 watches are produced each year, and if you have a spare 245,000 dollars lying around, you can have the universe on your wrist

© 2017 Reuben Jacobs

Comments

Walter Shillington from Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada on June 29, 2017:

Interesting article.

Walter Shillington is an avid collector of mechanical watches. His reviews focus on inexpensive but often intriguing Chinese timepieces.

When it comes to quality and originality, most will agree that the finest watches are manufactured in Switzerland. If you purchase a Swiss timepiece, the odds are good that your timepiece will remain within the family for generations.

On the opposite end of the scale, Chinese assembly lines slap together tens of thousands of cheap watches. Quality control is usually nominal and, when it comes to sourcing components, the cost is often the determining factor.

Chinese manufacturers aim to provide a timepiece with as many functions as possible and deliver it at a rock-bottom price. Their watches tend to inhabit the mediocre to pathetic range and, on occasion, these timepieces are delivered dead on arrival.

There are exceptions and, as a writer whose specialty centers around the Asian watch industry, I have reviewed a number of timepieces which fared far better than their price would suggest. To honor these manufacturers, I am introducing the Dunn Awards. The following reviews focus on the best watches available from China.

Dunn Award for Original Design: Parnis 523

If you could purchase a luxury watch from China — and you can’t — Parnis would be the company most likely to oblige. This manufacturer produces timepieces utilizing premium components and exceptional quality control. Parnis designs their own watches and assembles them at their manufacturing facility at Tong De Wei, Guangzhou. The various components are contracted out from companies such as Seagull and Miyota. Fu Yuan Xin manufacturers their cases.

Many of these timepieces are intended to resemble those of their Swiss competitors. Other designs are fresh and original.

The Parnis P523, which retails for about 120 dollars, is quite heavy, weighing in at 149 grams (5.3 ounces). Its diameter measures 48mm and this unit is 15.6mm thick. The P523 comes with a thick, 24mm PU leather band.

The case is composed of stainless steel and plated with gold. Its stainless steel backplate is attached by six tiny screws and slotted in a manner which allows accommodation of the accompanying strap.

A flat, mineral glass crystal hovers above a sandwich style dial. The lower dial supports four subdials which can be set to display the time in differing zones. One of these is equipped with a date display.

Four circular openings pierce the jet-black upper dial, revealing the subdials and promoting a three-dimensional effect. Gold-plated crowns jut out from the rim of this timepiece.

This watch includes four separate movements. A defiant Citizen (Miyota) date movement guards the right-hand bottom of the dial. It is surrounded and outgunned by three Seiko (Epson) Al35E’s. Expecting imminent and bloody battle between these bitter Japanese rivals, I quickly replaced the black plate and screwed it tight.

The sandwich style is quite effective, adding depth to the timepiece. I also appreciate Parnis’s use of different colors for each individual subdial.

Gold plating was applied to the case but not to the backplate or the strap’s buckle. While normally I dislike two-tone timepieces, this approach certainly accentuates Parnis’s sandwich motif.

The strap fits into slots cut into the baseplate. This provides a touch of elegance without sacrificing comfort.

As expected, considering the reputation of the original manufacturers, all four movements react smoothly while being adjusted.

Parnis utilizes conventional machine processes in the construction of their watch cases. In addition, this manufacturer makes use of 316L marine grade stainless steel. If you desire a stronger case, your sole option is Rolex.

The P523 is fitted with the same backplate as the H2110 chromometer. This does not affect operation or durability but the model number, engraved onto the bottom, is incorrect and might lead to confusion.

The fitted strap is of high-quality PU leather. It is thick and very well built. Considering the overall quality of this timepiece, however, a PU leather strap seems out of place.

While few people have an actual need for a watch presenting the time in four different zones, this timepiece features fresh and innovative styling which is bound to attract attention. The P523 and its siblings are intended for those who crave a luxury watch but, financially, are not in the position to purchase one.

Dunn Award for Best Automatic Watch: Aatos G-JzakkoSSBD

Aatos burst upon the scene in 2009, offering for sale the first sub-one-thousand-dollar tourbillion timepiece. They followed up with a large selection of well-built, accurate and freshly designed watches.

They were attempting to follow Parnis’s example, building a reputation for luxurious quality. Unfortunately, it appears that Aatos has failed. The vendor’s name has changed, suggesting ownership has as well, and their timepieces are available only through eBay and, in some areas, Amazon.

Aatos watches are manufactured in China and sold out of Germany. I am unsure as to whether these timepieces are still being produced or if the vendor is simply selling off inventory.

Prices are low, considering their quality. If a purchaser is willing to forgo a warranty, many Aatos timepieces are designated slightly used and sold for even less. If you live in Europe and desire an automatic, Aatos is the first brand you should check. For the rest of us, these watches still offer value despite the nineteen dollars shipping fee.

At 174 grams (6.15 ounces), the Aatos G-JzakkoSSBD is no lightweight. It measures 45.5mm across and is 16.5mm thick. The strap measures 22mm in width.

The case is composed of glossy stainless steel. Two knurled pushbuttons, separated by the crown, protrude from the right edge. Another pushbutton and identically designed knob are situated to the left.

The dial is black. Silver colored roman numerals denote the nine, twelve and three o’clock position. Eight tiny diamonds are placed strategically around the dial. The hands are easily detected against the black backdrop.

Two windows at the top allow a view of the date. A pair of subdials points to the day of week and month.

Twenty-four-hour time is indicated along the dial’s outer rim. This rim is actually a component of what we professional watch reviewers refer to as a rotating whimsical ring. The knob located on the upper left edge of the timepiece is used to revolve this ring in either direction. This ingenious feature clearly demonstrates Aatos’s compassion for the compulsive knob-twisters and button-pushers among us.

A cut-out at the bottom of the dial reveals the rapidly oscillating timing wheel and the rear of the moment is visible via a transparent window. The rotor is nicely etched and branded Aatos.

The strap is composed of stainless steel links and I’ve found it to be the most comfortable watchband in my collection.

Despite the military-like knurled pushbuttons and rapidly whirling timing wheel, this watch presents an overall impression of elegance. The tiny diamonds and well-designed subdials show well against their black backdrop.

During my week-long test period, the date indicator and both subdials worked correctly. The timepiece lost an average of five seconds per day, which is considered excellent for a watch in this price range.

The crown snaps in and out nicely and I did not detect sloppiness in the operation of the crown, pushbuttons or knob. Water resistance is listed at ATM 5. Consider this timepiece splash resistant only. The overall appearance of this Aatos automatic suggests above average robustness.

If you dislike heavy watches, you should avoid this timepiece. In every other respect, the Aatos G-JzakkoSSBD ranks at or near the top of my collection. It is elegant, comfortable and incredibly accurate.

Dunn Award for Outstanding Value: Skmei 1064 Men's Sports Watch

To compete for this award a timepiece must perform well in four categories. It must be stylish, accurate, durable and inexpensive.

My shortlist included Skmie’s 1064 and Winner’s budget skeleton watch. I really like the Winner. It’s a great looking timepiece and, despite its low price-point, includes a reasonably accurate mechanical movement. Sadly, it loses on durability. Its watchstrap is crap.

The 1064 is manufactured by the Guangzhou SKMEI Watch co., Ltd. which is located in Guangdong, mainland China. Unlike most Chinese watch brands, Skmei actually designs and manufactures many of their timepieces.

The brand first appeared in 2010, featuring imitations of Casio’s G-Shock series. Since then Skmei has introduced a wide variety of inexpensive timepieces.

I purchased the Skmei 1064 for seven dollars. This watch weighs in at 99 grams (3.49 ounces). It is 47mm in diameter and 13mm thick.

A black plastic bezel is attached to the watch’s stainless steel case. Some manufacturers provide a bezel which can be rotated to allow the purchaser to measure elapsed time. Skmei considers this practice frivolous; so much so that they have used six shiny screws to secure this device firmly in place.

The dial is gray. Silver inserts mark off the hour and a white outer ring provides the ability to keep track of minutes and seconds. The hands are attractively designed and time can be easily determined in limited light.

A solar cell occupies the top half of the dial and a digital display is located below. This display can be backlit at the touch of a button.

This watch contains a dual movement. The analog clock is adjusted by pulling out and turning the crown. The digital movement provides both time and date. Four buttons protruding from this device allow the user to check the date, utilize the backlight, set an alarm, and run the stopwatch function. The push-buttons feel reasonably solid and should last for the lifetime of the watch. This timepiece emits a distinctive tic as the second hand rotates. I quite like that.

The Skmei 1064 boasts a water resistance rating of fifty meters. Considering its price range and the number of protruding buttons, you might not want to test this feature.

The watchband is composed of rubber. It is thick at the point where it attaches to the watch, thinning and becoming very flexible throughout the remainder of its length. The buckle utilizes two pins. For those of us with dubious hand and eye coordination, it is slightly more difficult to attach than a normal band.

The Skmei 1064 is equipped with two batteries. Another storage unit—probably a capacitor—can be charged by either sunlight or the CR2016 battery which normally powers the digital section of this watch.

The analog section is powered by an SR626 1.5-volt battery. It is hidden within the depths of the movement and not considered replaceable.

The digital section of the movement is powered by a CR2016 3-volt battery. This cell is not rechargeable. The CR2016 is concealed beneath a cover at the top of the movement. It can be replaced but, because the cover is glued down, the process would not be easy.

I ran a series of tests to determine the usability of the rechargeable storage unit. Unfortunately—due to testing methods best described as unsatisfactory—the results of my procedures proved contradictory.

My best guess is that fully charged, the internal energy storage device will allow digital operation for up to forty minutes. Once the display fades away, there remains sufficient energy to power the internal clock for a limited period of time. I don’t expect this grace period would extend beyond a couple of hours.

I doubt the average customer will bother using this watch after the battery fails. It wouldn’t be practical. On the other hand, solar power will probably augment the energy provided by the battery. This could very well extend the life of the SR2016 cell.

The manufacturer has managed to jam an analog display, a digital readout, and a solar cell into the dial without noticeable clutter. They’ve even provided a wrist strap which exhibits a degree of flair. The Skmei 1064 is an appealing watch.

The Skmei 1064 is solidly built and should provide yeoman service over a lifetime of one to two years. Then it can be replaced for less than ten dollars. You can’t beat that.

Best Replica: Fake Franck Muller Casablanca

Most professional writers avoid covering replicas, referring to their manufacturers as little more than pond scum. Why pond scum? These companies earn their money by copying timepieces of legitimate manufacturers. They even steal their branding information.

The profit margin on a replica is far higher than that of a normal Chinese watch and the manufacturer concentrates more on replicating style than on durability and accuracy. When you purchase a replica, you normally receive a watch that appears to be worth thousands but falls apart within weeks.

The manufacturer doesn’t care. They’ve been paid. The purchaser, however, feels cheated and the reputation of the company that originally designed this watch is tarnished.

Replicas comprise a major portion of the timepieces produced by Chinese manufacturers. Because of this, I must reluctantly cover these watches. While it is but a pale shadow of a genuine Franck Muller Casablanca, the watch discussed below is the best of those I have reviewed this year.

At DHgate I found a listing for a no-name watch that copied the barrel shape favored by Franck Muller. I liked the design and, since it was on sale for forty-five dollars, submitted an order.

The timepiece arrived on schedule, packed snugly inside a Styrofoam box. Eagerly I pulled off the lid and withdrew my new purchase.

This no-name watch was branded, after all. Across the face was printed FRANCK MULLER. I winced and dropped it back into the box.

This Tonneau-shaped timepiece is 17mm thick. It measures 55mm from top to bottom and 43.4mm across. The timepiece weighs in at 101 grams (3.56 ounces).

The case is gold colored and very shiny. Its silhouette is described as Cintrée Curvex which does not translate well to English.

The dial—thanks mainly to Franck Muller’s original design work—is beautiful. Black numbers of varying size line the edge of a nicely patterned white dial. Two windows positioned near the top of the dial display the date. Sunken, gold rimmed subdials indicate the day of week and month.

The hands are gold colored and coated with very effective luminous paint.

Several models produced by Franck Muller incorporate a tourbillon. This highly sophisticated device is used to increase accuracy. The dial of this copy is of open heart design, simulating the presence of a tourbillon by providing a view of the rapidly whirling timing wheel.

Two plastic pushbuttons located on the right edge of this watch allow adjustment of date and month of the year. A sunken pushbutton on the left edge is used to adjust the day of the week.

The bottom plate is secured by four screws. Beneath this plate, sits an unbranded automatic movement. The rotor emits an unusually loud—almost irritating—rattle when the watch is shaken. This does not affect the replica’s operation.

The watchstrap is 22mm wide, reasonably thick and composed of PU leather. The buckle is larger than normal and designed to match the watch case. In this particular strap the color patterns, representing grain, appear faded and washed out. After one year of occasional use, however, this band has proved remarkably sturdy.

The huge, and well-curved silhouette of this watch reminds me of the hull of a submarine; I suppose that’s my naval background rising to the surface. Large numbers circle the edge of the dial, squeezed in typical Franck Muller fashion along the left and right side of the watch. Sunken subdials add to the charm.

I normally admire the open-heart design. This watch, however, would attract a more sophisticated clientele if this treatment were omitted.

On each end of the case, between the lugs, there is a series of short, scratch-like marks. These are positioned where the end of the leather strap butts against the case. I expect these marks were made during the manufacturing process.

I tested this watch for a week. During this period, the date function and both subdials worked perfectly. Over seven days this replica gained an average of four seconds per day.

A word of warning. Watches in this price range are not routinely adjusted for super-watch accuracy before leaving the factory. In this instance, I won the lottery. Still… give the Devil his due; this replica is the most accurate automatic I have ever owned.

Plastic pushbuttons are utilized to adjust two of this timepiece’s functions. I question the use of plastic buttons on any watch sold for more than fifteen dollars. The lower button sits loosely in its socket. Its action reminds me of when I was a child; probing a tooth that wiggled distressingly, signaling impending lose. While the button remains seated, I realize it eventually will drop from the case, causing all sorts of grief.

The watchstrap is composed of PU leather. While it is of decent quality, lifespan is limited.

This replica is an attractive and reasonably lightweight calendar watch. I am impressed with the movement which, after a year of use, has proven highly accurate. Sadly, quality control is poor. The lifespan of this timepiece will be limited to the length of time its faulty plastic pushbutton remains in place.

Comments

Fantastic reviews Walter on May 25, 2017:

I really enjoy your watch reviews, especially mechanical watches. Hopefully you will review a Kinyued automatic, and a Parnis power reserve watch in the near future. keep up the great reviews my friend.

Maribel Taleghani Asl from Philippines on May 21, 2017:

It declined, indeed. Nonetheless, some creative business-minded people found a way to sell more watches - they merged it with fashion and accessory.

Louise Powles from Norfolk, England on May 21, 2017:

They are beautiful watches. I wonder if the sale of watches have fallen as so many ppl tend to look at the time on their mobile phones these days? I need to get myself a new watch.

Walter Shillington is an avid collector of mechanical watches. His reviews focus on inexpensive but often intriguing Chinese timepieces.

If you could purchase a luxury watch from China—and you can’t—Parnis would be the company most likely to oblige. This manufacturer holds the reputation of producing well-built timepieces utilizing quality components. According to my research, however, their products lack both originality and exclusiveness. I decided to put Parnis to the test.

Although this company’s timepieces are priced slightly outside my comfort zone, over the Christmas holiday, I won a pair of lowballed bids on eBay. The following review focuses on the Parnis P523.

Description

I purchased the P523 from eBay. It arrived well packed and on schedule. My winning bid, including shipping, came to 30 dollars. Under normal circumstances, these watches range from 120 to 130 dollars.

The timepiece is quite heavy, weighing in at 149 grams (5.3 ounces). Its diameter measures 48mm, and this unit is 15.6 mm thick. The P523 comes with a thick, 24-mm PU leather band.

The case is composed of stainless steel and plated with gold. Its stainless steel caseback—perhaps better described as a backplate—is attached to the case by six tiny screws. There are cutouts on both sides of the backplate, which, in an interesting quirk of design, are intended to accommodate and secure the watch’s strap.

A flat, scratch-proof mineral glass crystal hovers above a sandwich-style dial. The lower dial supports four colorful subdials which can be set to display the time in differing zones. One of these ranges between twelve and twenty-four hundred, assisting those unfamiliar with military time. Another subdial is equipped with a tiny date display.

Four circular openings pierce the jet-black upper dial, revealing the subdials and promoting a three-dimensional effect. Four gold-plated crowns jut out from the rim of this timepiece.

I’d expected to find a large and complicated mechanism beneath the backplate. Parnis, however, chose to go the low-tech route. A defiant Citizen (Miyota) date movement guards the right-hand bottom of the dial. It is surrounded and outgunned by three Seiko (Epson) Al35E’s. Expecting an imminent and bloody battle between these Japanese rivals, I quickly replaced the black plate and screwed it tight.

Each of these movements is powered by a Sony SR626SW button battery. I checked Amazon for replacement costs, and, happily, these batteries go for about one dollar apiece.

The Manufacturer

Parnis is a small Chinese watch company, trademarked by Xiao Jiam Hong of Guangzhou.

Parnis designs their own timepieces and assembles them at their manufacturing facility at Tong De Wei, Guangzhou. The various components are contracted out from companies such as Seagull, Miyota, and Dixmount. Fu Yuan Xin manufacturers their cases.

They produce both mechanical and quartz-driven timepieces. Some of these watches are intended to closely resemble their Swiss competitors’ more expensive luxury timepieces. Other designs, such as that of the P523, are fresh and original.

Parnis has acquired a good reputation due to its presumed use of superior components and excellent quality control.

Specifications

Brand: Parnis

Model: P523

Condition: New

Place of Origin: Guangzhou, China

Gender: Male

Display: Analog

Movements: Miyota with date and three Epson Al35E’s

Style: Luxury

Features: Four time zones

Functions: Day of month

Band material: PU Leather

Band color: Brown

Band width: 24 mm

Clasp type: Buckle

Dial color: Black with complimentary colored subdials

Dial window material: Hardened mineral glass

Case material: Stainless steel, partially gold plated

Case diameter: 48 mm

Case thickness: 15.6 mm

Weight: 149 grams (5.3 ounces)

Water resistance: 3 ATM (splash resistant only)

Visual Appeal

I find the sandwich style to be quite effective, adding depth to the timepiece. I also appreciate Parnis’s use of different colors for each of the subdials.

Probably unintentionally, the plastic gears fitted snugly around each crown, add a whimsical flavor reminiscent of steampunk.

Gold plating was applied to the case but not to the backplate or the strap’s buckle. While normally I dislike two-tone timepieces, the P523 does benefit from this approach. Certainly, it accentuates Parnis’s sandwich motif.

The strap, which is thick and luxurious, fits into slots cut into the base plate. This provides a touch of elegance without sacrificing comfort.

Durability

As expected, considering the reputation of the original manufacturers, all four movements react smoothly when being adjusted and appear to be of high quality.

Parnis utilizes conventional machine processes rather than metal injection molding in the construction of their watch cases. In addition, this manufacturer makes use of 316L marine-grade stainless steel. According to my sources, if you desire a stronger case, your sole option is Rolex.

In order the maintain a low price-point, Parnis has cut several corners. The first example is relatively benign. The P523 is fitted with the same backplate as the H2110 chromometer. This does not affect operation or durability, but the model number, engraved onto the bottom, is incorrect and might lead to confusion.

The fitted strap is of the highest quality PU leather I have ever encountered. It is thick and very well built. Four months after purchase, the perfume embedded into this band still exudes a faint aroma of leather. Considering the overall quality of this timepiece, however, a PU leather strap—no matter how competently designed—seems wrong.

This watch is rated 3 ATM. It is splash-proof only.

Overall Impression

While few people have an actual need for a watch presenting the time in four different zones, this timepiece features innovative styling that is bound to attract attention. The P523 and its siblings are intended for those who crave a luxury watch but, financially, are not in the position to purchase one. The Parnis P523 is recommended.

In order to provide value, watch companies often cut corners. In the poll below, please select the shortcut that you would least like to see.

Comments

Jim Rees on May 19, 2017:

Although not my taste in watches, another excellent review.

Walter Shillington is an avid collector of mechanical watches. His reviews focus on inexpensive but often intriguing Chinese timepieces.

I wanted to purchase a watch similar to Casio’s G-Shock without spending a great deal of money. I chose the Skmei 1029, dual movement S-Shock.

Unfortunately, the timepiece never arrived. I asked Wish.com for my money back and purchased the less expensive 1019 Sport Watch through Amazon. This also failed to reach my post office box, resulting in another refund.

It seemed unlikely that two attempts to purchase an S-Shock would end in failure. I begin to wonder if my reviews had proved unpopular with Chinese watch companies. Was Skmei leading an evil consortium of manufacturers bent on depriving me of an honest livelihood?

The next week, the watch from Amazon arrived. Twenty-one days later, Wish’s S-Shock was delivered. My doctor’s diagnosis of paranoia had proved correct.

Description

Visually, these watches are very similar, the chief difference consisting of the 1029’s bright red set of hands and its large metal crown.

Their cases are composed of plastic. Casebacks are metal and secured by four tiny screws. The dials of both these timepieces are protected by a plastic crystal.

The Skmei 1019 Sports Watch weighs in at 59 grams (2.1 ounces). It spans 49 mm (2 inches) and is 17.5 mm thick.

The Skmei 1029 S-Shock weighs 64 grams (2.3 ounces) and is 18 mm thick. Due to its sizable crown, the diameter of this watch reaches 57mm.

Watch straps are composed of polyurethane resin, a form of synthetic rubber that resists abrasions and will not easily tear. Direct sunlight will shorten its lifespan so, if you consistently work outside all day, you might consider another brand of watch. Bandwidth measures 22 mm.

In normal mode, both watches display a complete calendar, including the day of the week. A round gizmo, positioned at the dial’s top left-hand-side, provides a continuously changing geometric pattern.

The 1029 is fitted with four pushbuttons, which are used to perform adjustments and illuminate the digital display. The 1019 provides a fifth pushbutton, effectively and unnecessarily doubling the wearer’s backlight activation options. The 1029 S-Shock’s crown is used to adjust its analog clock. Both watches feature a stopwatch and an alarm.

The 1019 is powered by a CR2032 battery. The 1029’s digital movement is fitted with a CR2016, and a SR626SW cell powers its analog section.

These Skmei timepieces are rated 5ATM. They can be used for occasional swimming—but not snorkeling. Pushbuttons should not be depressed during this activity.

Skmei 1029 S-Shock

The Manufacturer

Skmei is a brand name of the Guangzhou SKMEI Watch Company which is located in Guangdong, China. Unlike many Chinese watch producers, Skmei actually designs and manufactures their timepieces.

The brand first appeared in 2010, featuring imitations of Casio’s G-Shock model. Since then Skmei has introduced a wide variety of inexpensive digital and quartz-based timepieces.

Umeishi is another brand owned by Guangzhou, specializing in automatic timepieces. They tend to be expensive when compared with their sister brand. Quite possibly, these devices are manufactured by a different company.

Visual Appeal

These models have a distinctive military appearance. They are chunky, their cases divided into a number of sharply angled sections. Four oversized, slot-headed screws convey the impression that they are holding the watch together. Black is the primary color, offset by touches of red, white, and silver. These watches are equipped with a profusion of pushbuttons.

The Skmei 1019 Super Sport provides digital information in a conservative, straightforward fashion, the subdial-like gizmo unit adding a touch of flair. Tapping the proper pushbutton will cause both the LCD display and the gismo to glow pleasingly green.

The 1029 S-Shock is similar but also includes an analog movement supported by a large silver crown and a set of nicely designed pointers.

Skmei 1019 Sport Watch

Durability

Chinese watch companies, as a general rule, do not prioritize quality control. They focus on providing multifunctional timepieces which can be purchased inexpensively.

Throughout the past year, I have purchased approximately forty watches. Four of them proved defective, their problems ranging from pointers which had become detached, to an automatic mechanism that failed to operate. This works out to an abysmal failure rate of ten percent.

Skmei, recognizing that every defective watch they sell represents a lost customer, has taken a better approach. Their quality control system—already second to none in the Chinese manufacturing sector—has been further refined. Every watch they sell now includes a QC sticker, which indicates the timepiece has been inspected for functionality before leaving the factory.

Both watches are housed inside plastic cases. I prefer metal, but these do appear reasonably sturdy. Pushbuttons are well designed and will provide good service. Crystals are plastic but should be relatively protected because they are placed well below the upper rim of their cases.

While I would not consider polyurethane resin watchbands to be particularly stylish, the included straps appear robust and should not present a problem.

Batteries are replaceable; however, more effort is required to perform this service than experienced with competing brands.

Although these watches are rated 5ATM, I would take this appraisal with a grain of salt. Casebacks are tightly held by four screws, but gaskets, designed to prevent water ingress, are not present. A large number of pushbuttons also provide a method through which moisture could intrude. I recommend that you play safe, treating these timepieces as splash-proof.

Skmei Polyurethane Resin Watch Strap

Overall Impression

Both of these watches are highly functional and should provide yeoman service for a least a year. If you like their design, the Skmei 1019 Super Sport and its cousin, the 1029 S-Shock, are worthy of serious consideration.

Those that wear watches generally align themselves with one of two camps. Either they prefer digital displays or they won’t settle for anything less than an analog timepiece. The following poll is intended to determine which group has the greater following.

Questions & Answers

Question: Is the Skemi or S-Shock a better watch?

Answer: S-Shock watches are manufactured by Skmei. If you are comparing the S Shock to Casio's G-Shock, I expect Casio's offering to be the better watch. I don't own one but, because the G-Shock line is more expensive, Casio can use better quality parts to construct their timepieces.

Comments

hoyzay on January 05, 2019:

Very refreshing to find a collector of Chinese watches, particularly the SKMEI Brand. Thanks Walter for the clear and honest opinion.

Yuvraj on December 01, 2018:

It is very good watch

Raaaa on September 07, 2018:

Skmei S-Shock Multi-Functional Black Dial Sports Watch for Men's & Boys (1270 Black) kasa hai?

Walter Shillington is an avid collector of mechanical watches. His reviews focus on inexpensive but often intriguing Chinese timepieces.

Cheap Watches From Wish

Late last year, I made a series of purchases from Wish, focusing on watches that could be acquired and shipped for five dollars or less. The following review covers two men’s watches, a woman’s timepiece, and one that is aimed at the young girl who yearns for a touch of glamor. While these are basically 'throwaway' watches, three of them do provide good value for your money.

1. XINEW Calendar Watch

This watch arrived on schedule and was adequately packed. It weighs in at 40 grams (1.4 ounces) and comes equipped with a nicely designed black PU leather strap. The timepiece, including crown, spans 43mm and is 10.8mm thick. The caseback is composed of stainless steel.

Both the XINEW’s metal case and dial are painted black. I find the combination of an exceptionally chunky hour indicator and a diminutive minute hand to be an awkward styling choice, but the time can be easily determined. Reasonably effective luminous paint covers both indicators.

This timepiece features two fake subdials and a working ‘day of the month’ function. That’s cool. You don’t often find an analog date complication in the five-dollar watch category.

There was no evident sloppiness when adjusting the time and date, suggesting the movement is of decent quality.

The 22mm PU leather band goes well with this timepiece. It is thicker than the other faux leather straps included in this review and should last for several months.

While the strap will eventually require replacement, the XINEW provides good value for your dollar.

2. Dgjud 47Q Quartz Watch

This watch arrived adequately packed and—despite the Christmas rush—on time. It measures 44mm across and is 11mm thick. The metal case and caseback are silver in color. This timepiece weighs 39 grams (1.4 ounces).

The 47Q’s mediocre quality, PU leather strap is black with an attractive crocodile pattern. It’s width measures 20mm. If worn daily, this strap will provide up to two months of service.

This timepiece’s dial features a white background with black lettering to assure readability. The orientation of hour indicators remains constant as they circle the dial. This concept is interesting but disconcerting because the five, six, and seven o’clock numbers are presented upside down.

I found the movement to be very stiff, and the crown’s protective ridges increased my difficulty in adjusting the time.

The Dgjud 47Q arrived with one section of its strap pulled away from the case. This probably occurred during packing, and either went unnoticed, or the shipper felt it wasn’t worth the effort to reattach the band. It’s not worth your effort either.

3. Gogoey Quartz Watch

What little girl could fail to love a Gogoey? Its huge, golden case is plastered with the finest of plastic diamonds and I counted over one hundred tiny beads housed within the outer dial. Shiny gold numbers highlight a dial which is almost certainly composed of mother-of-pearl. This timepiece screams sophistication and glamour.

Time is easily adjustable without noticeable sloppiness, and like all quartz timepieces, this watch is very accurate. It weighs 43 grams (1.54 ounces), measures 46mm across, and is 11.5mm thick. Band width is 20mm, and the caseback is composed of stainless steel.

The mediocre quality white PU leather band is Gogoey’s weak spot. If your little princess really loves this watch, you will eventually need to purchase a quality leather replacement strap.

4. Unbranded Women’s Flower Watch

This timepiece includes a shiny metal gold-colored case and silver caseback. It weighs in at 41 grams (1.44 ounces). The watch’s diameter measures 41.5mm, and it is 9.8mm thick. Bandwidth is 19mm.

Hands are gold-rimmed and covered with an ineffective coat of luminous paint. Time is easily adjustable without noticeable lag. I feel that its white dial, gold numbering, and pink flower design literally radiates cheerfulness.

A silicon strap is provided. It features a pattern that continues the dial’s flower motif. Although I really like this style, I should note that my female friends consider my taste in fashion accessories to be suspect. The strap is comfortable and should be tough enough to last the lifespan of this watch.

Overall Impression

With the exception of Dgjud’s 47Q, these watches offer decent quality for their price. Gogoey put credible effort into the design of their timepiece, and XINEW’s date feature is much appreciated. If I have to declare a winner, however, it would be the unbranded Flower Watch. It comes equipped with the only band capable of surviving the anticipated lifespan of these timepieces.

© 2017 Walter Shillington

Walter Shillington is an avid collector of mechanical watches. His reviews focus on inexpensive but often intriguing Chinese timepieces.

To house my ever-increasing collection of inexpensive watches, I needed to purchase a new display case. Money was tight, so I focused on units that could deliver the most bang for the buck. The RW0000701E appeared to be the best deal.

Those with a slightly more generous budget and a need to accommodate a collection of large timepieces will be interested in my review of the Tech Swiss TS5850BRN.

Description

The watch box arrived on schedule. The unit was well packed and cost a total of $39.99.

This display case is composed of faux leather reinforced by what seems to be medium-density fiberboard. It weighs 1.4 kilograms (49 ounces). The box is 25.5 cm (10 inches) wide, 17 cm (7 inches) deep, and 15 cm (6 inches) high.

Grid dimensions are 45 mm by 75 mm by 45 mm. Ten compartments are fitted to each of its two layers, and the interior covering is composed of faux suede.

The grid dividers are removable to allow storage of a combination of watches and other items. However, because these dividers are composed of faux suede covered cardboard and require support from every direction, I recommend you leave them in place.

The observation window is glass, allowing a clear view of the items stored within. The two front-mounted latches are silver toned. As far as I can tell, this case does not utilize conventional hinges. Although the actual mechanism is hidden from sight, I believe a strip of faux leather, running along the back of the unit, simply folds when the box is opened.

The Manufacturer

This display case originates from mainland China. It is unbranded, and I was unable to pinpoint the originating factory.

Specifications

Brand: Unbranded

Model: RW0000701E

Place of origin: China

Gender: Male

Purchase price: $39.99

Weight: 1.4 Kilo (49 ounces)

Width: 25.5 cm (10 inches)

Depth: 17 cm (7 inches)

Height: 15 cm (6 inches)

Grid dimensions: 45 mm by 75 mm by 45 mm

Number of compartments: Twenty

Main construction material: Faux leather reinforced by what is probably medium density fiberboard

Exterior coat: Black faux leather with white stitching

Interior trim: Plush beige faux suede fabric

Composition of display window: Glass

Hardware provided: Two metal latches

Visual Appeal

This watch box is small, compact, and neatly covered with faux leather. Two shiny metal latches add a touch of flare. The faux suede fabric is well fitted, and the glass display window allows an excellent view of items stored within.

The cushions are of good quality and, because they fit tightly into their individual grids, timepieces attached to them are held securely. While you cannot fit oversized watches into adjoining grids, there is normally enough space to fit a small or medium-sized watch between two large timepieces.

Durability

The combination of thick faux leather and medium-density fiberboard should prove reasonably sturdy.

This box is fitted with cardboard dividers. Because this material is flexible and softens over time, I would normally disapprove. In this particular instance, however, clever design work has minimized this drawback. The grids are occupied by cushions that exactly fit the space they are provided. Each grid reinforces the next, relieving the dividers of the necessity to provide physical support. Please note that, because the space provided to accommodate each watch is cramped, timepieces must be tightly strapped to their cushions.

The latches are of mediocre but sufficient quality. The display window is glass and will not be easily scratched.

As far as I can determine, the RW0000701E lacks proper hinges. My best guess is that a strip of faux leather runs along the back of the case. Each time the watch box is opened, this material will bend and allow access. Over time, creases will develop, eventually deepening to the point where the material will tear. If you switch to a new watch every day, the lifespan of this box can be measured in months. On the other hand, if you wear the same timepiece for a week or more, this unit could last several years.

In order to access watches stored in the bottom half of the case, the top of the unit must be tilted upward and to the rear. Ensure you place this display case in a location that provides sufficient space.

Headroom is limited in the bottom half of this watch box. Thick timepieces or those with heavy straps cannot be accommodated. The upper level does provide sufficient headroom for bulkier watches.

Overall Impression

If you are searching for an attractive display case at an affordable price, the RW0000701E is worthy of consideration. Note, however, that if accessed on a daily basis, this watch box's lack of proper hinges will ensure a short lifespan.

In order to produce goods competitively, manufacturers will sometimes utilize parts and techniques that reduce the quality of their items. In the poll below, please chose the option that you would be most inclined to accept in order to purchase a watch box at a bargain price.

Walter Shillington is an avid collector of mechanical watches. His reviews focus on inexpensive but often intriguing Chinese timepieces.

I collect watches, and, over the past year, I have accumulated far more than could be accommodated in my original display case.

While searching through Amazon, I came across the Tech Swiss TSAA31-577BUR. The cramped and contorted grain of its burlwood finish immediately caught my eye.

I really liked the effect but had no idea what the term "burlwood" meant. Searching through Google, I discovered that those ugly humps that sometimes grow on the sides of trees are burls. Burls can also be buried underground, attached to the tree’s root system. In this unusual type of wood, virus, fungus, bacterium, or insect infestation have forced the grain to grow in a twisted and interlocked manner. Because of this, each article composed of burlwood is completely unique.

If you would prefer as less expensive double layer watch box, please check out my review of the Twenty Grid PU Leather Display Case.

Description

The Tech Swiss display case arrived on time and was well packaged. My total cost came to sixty dollars.

This box is a heavy unit, weighing in at 3.26 kilograms (over seven pounds). It is 27 cm (10 ½ inches) wide, 22.5 cm (9 inches) deep, and 16 cm (6 ½ inches) high. Grid dimensions are 43 mm by 98 mm by 39 mm.

The upper level of this watch box is divided into ten grids, and a removable drawer, positioned below, can accommodate up to ten additional timepieces.

This case is composed of wood and finished with a burlwood grain. With the exception of the opening, which houses the drawer, the exterior of this cabinet is well coated with either varnish or a similar substance.

A sheet of glass serves as the display window. The interior is lined with a plush beige lining and, to aid in the prevention of scratches, the bottom is covered with soft velvet. Cushions are standard sized and flexible enough to accommodate straps of various lengths. All hardware is gold-toned and of good quality.

Manufacturer

Tech Swiss is owned by Paylak, a privately held company in Reseda, California. Paylak is an importer, employing between one and seven personnel. Tech Swiss’s website features watch boxes, winders, bands, and other watch-related products.

Specifications

Brand: Tech Swiss

Model: TSAA31-577BUR

Place of origin: Unknown. Imported to USA

Gender: Male

Purchase price: $60.00

Weight: 3.26 Kilo (115 ounces)

Width: 27cm (10 ½ inches)

Depth: 22.5cm (9 inches) deep

Height: 16cm (6 ½ inches)

Grid dimensions: 43mm by 98mm by 39mm

Number of grids: Twenty

Main construction material: Wood—probably medium density fiberboard—with burlwood grain finish

Exterior coat: Varnish or a similar substance

Interior trim: Plush beige faux suede fabric

Composition of display window: Glass

Hardware provided: Drawer knob, metal latch and two hinges

Visual Appeal

Varnished wood is always appealing, and the distinctive burlwood finish serves to increases this effect. The gold-colored hardware goes well with the design of the display case, and an excellent view of the enclosed timepieces is provided by a glass window.

The grid dividers are thicker than normal, providing extra space for the storage of watches. All but my largest timepieces fit comfortably without the appearance of overcrowding.

The cushions are not quite as long as required to fit snugly within their individual compartment. Over time, due to the weight and bulk of the attached timepieces, they tend to shift slightly. This causes no physical harm, but the watches will appear to be out of alignment.

The compartment occupied by the drawer is unfinished and appears to be composed of medium-density fibreboard. While I would have preferred this cubbyhole to be fully finished, it is a minor issue because the drawer completely hides this compartment from view.

Durability

This Tech Swiss display case is very solidly constructed, the sides and back far thicker than the faux leather covered units I have previously reviewed. The grid dividers are robust and will prevent the heaviest of watches from leaning into adjoining compartments.

The glass display window, unlike one composed of plastic, is scratch resistant, and the hinges are designed to—with the assistance of gravity—hold the watch box’s lid in the open position.

Tech Swiss did not equip the drawer with a set of rails. It simply slides in and out of its compartment. While this is not a major problem, care should be taken to ensure the drawer is not inadvertently pulled completely out and dropped.

Overall Impression

The Tech Swiss TSAA31-577BUR is the best of my collection of display cases. It looks great and comfortably holds all but the very largest timepieces. It is slightly pricier than my similarly sized, faux leather-covered unit, but I believe this watch box is worth the additional expense.

Manufacturers provide a wide range of watch boxes, their composition determined by selling price and what they feel the customer would most prefer. The poll below allows you to express your opinion on this matter.

Walter Shillington is an avid collector of mechanical watches. His reviews focus on inexpensive but often intriguing Chinese timepieces.

I collect watches, and, since I am very proud of these timepieces, it is important to display them in the best possible light. I decided to purchase a display case that exuded luxury and was capable of handling the largest of the watches I have accumulated.

Most watch boxes compromise. While they can accommodate large watches, often, the adjoining grids must be occupied by smaller watches in order to avoid physical contact. Sometimes these grids must be left empty. What I desired was a box with wider than normal grids.

When purchased through retailers such as Amazon or eBay, photographs of their merchandise are supplied. While these pictures are helpful, the most important information is provided in the description.

You need to know the material used to construct the box and whether the display window is composed of plastic or glass. And, as previously noted, the width of each individual grid can be vital. If this information is not provided, it is best to message the vendor.

Description

I purchased the Tech Swiss TS5850BRN from Amazon. It arrived on schedule and well packed. This display case cost me 60 dollars.

It is very heavy, weighing in at almost two kilograms (70 ounces). The case is 39 cm (15 ½ inches) wide, 21 cm (8 inches) deep, and 10 cm (4 inches) high. Grid dimensions are 58 mm by 90 mm by 35 mm.

This watch box is constructed of wood and covered with padded leather. It includes a display window made of glass. The interior is lined with a plush beige faux suede fabric and each compartment is equipped with a soft removable cushion. The lid is mounted with two silver-toned hinges and a lockable latch.

The Manufacturer

Tech Swiss is owned by Paylak, a privately held company in Reseda, California. Paylak is an importer, employing between one and seven personnel. The Tech Swiss’s website offers for sale a variety of watch boxes, winders, bands, and other watch-related products.

Specifications

Brand: Tech Swiss

Model: TS5850BRN Large Watch Box

Place of origin: Unknown. Imported to USA

Gender: Male

Purchase price: $60.00

Weight: 2 Kilo (70 ounces)

Width: 39 cm (15 ½ inches)

Depth: 21 cm (8 inches) deep

Height: 10 cm (4 inches)

Grid dimensions: 58 mm by 90 mm by 35 mm

Number of grids: Twelve

Main construction material: Wood

Exterior covering: Padded leather

Interior trim: Plush beige faux suede fabric

Composition of display window: Glass

Hardware provided: Lockable metal latch and two hinges

Visual Appeal

The espresso-colored, padded-leather covering looks and feels great, and the glass window provides a clear view of the enclosed timepieces. Interior trim is rich and luxurious. Large, soft pillows provide an excellent backdrop for the timepieces they support.

The lockable latch is larger than most, and, as does the assembly designed to hold the open lid in place, provides an aura of sophistication.

Durability

The Tech Swiss TS5850BRN is constructed of wood. The grid dividers—also composed of wood—are sturdy and will provide excellent support. The glass display window presents a scratch-resistant surface.

Pillows are large and soft enough to hold any watch, regardless of its size or the length of its band. The cushions appear to have a spring inserted within, forcing out the sides. This ensures they fit snugly inside their respective compartments.

The largest timepieces I own fit comfortably within the grids without danger of contact with an adjoining watch.

The included latch is lockable and of sufficient quality to perform well for many years. This box incorporates latches designed to hold the lid safely in the open position.

This display case is well constructed and should enjoy a lengthy lifespan.

Overall Impression

While the Tech Swiss TS5850BRN is priced higher than other watch boxes I have reviewed, it is luxuriously appointed and was built specifically to accommodate large watches. This display case is recommended.

To enhance the value of their merchandise, manufacturers will often include features which improve convenience, security, and visual appeal. In the poll below, I am attempting to determine which of these amenities are most important to potential purchasers.

Walter Shillington is an avid collector of mechanical watches. His reviews focus on inexpensive but often intriguing Chinese timepieces.

When I first began collecting watches, I purchased a large, padded leather, Tech Swiss display case for storage. I am, however, fanatical when it comes to collecting. Every day I scan the internet, searching for deals and spending far more than I can afford. Before long, it became obvious that a second box would be required.

What to Look for in a Watch Display Case

Although internet-based stores provide photographs of the items they sell, it is important to read the accompanying description. This should include the type of material used to construct the box and composition of its display window.

Also of significance is the width of each individual grid. If, for example, the grids measure forty-three centimeters across, the box can comfortably hold small and medium-sized timepieces. Larger watches can be accommodated, but the adjoining grids may not be usable. As a general rule, you should not purchase a watch box with grids smaller than this size.

Of course, rules are made to be broken, and the display case reviewed below successfully breaks this criterion.

Description

I purchased the Diplomat 31-586 from Amazon. It arrived on time and was well packed. The total cost came to fourteen dollars.

Measurements

This display case, measuring 37 cm (14 ½ inches) in length, is longer than most. It is 21 cm (8 inches) deep and 7.8 cm (3 inches) in height. Total weight is 1.1 kilos (39 ounces)

Construction

The box is constructed of wood—probably medium grade fiberboard—and includes a large glass window.

Black, faux leather covers the exterior of the case. This extends into the interior although the wooden slats reinforcing the edge of the window are simply painted. The hardware included consists of a sturdy latch and two metal hinges. Eighteen flexible inserts are provided to support the straps of watches stored inside the case.

Rather than adopting the traditional grid system, Diplomat chose to provide a 27mm (one inch) thick layer of foam, punctuated by two rows of slots. These slots are 38mm apart and can accommodate up to eighteen watches.

If you are a traditionalist, you might like to read my review of the Tech Swiss TSAA31-577BUR display case. While costlier than the Diplomat, it is a beautiful watch box.

Manufacturer

Diplomat is an exporter of Chinese manufactured watch accessories. These include display cases, watch winders and specialized toolkits. Quality ranges as high as medium and I have been impressed by their warranty support.

Specifications

• Manufacturer: Diplomat
• Model: 31-586
• Place of Origin: Mainland China
• Gender: Neutral
• Purchase Price: Fourteen dollars
• Weight: 1100 grams (39 ounces)
• Width: 37cm (14 ½ inches)
• Depth: 21cm (8 inches)
• Height: 7.8cm (3 inches)
• Slot Dimensions: 38mm slot to slot. 78mm in length. 27mm thick
• Number of Slots: Eighteen
• Main Construction Material: Wood; probably medium quality fiberboard
• Interior Trim: Faux leather and foam
• Composition of Display Window: Glass
• Hardware Provided: Metal latch and two metal hinges

Visual Appeal

A faux leather sheathing has been glued to the outside of the display case. Although this covering has been properly applied, it is quite thin and fails to conceal the bulges created by reinforcing material applied to the box’s corners. Please note that the appearance, under normal conditions, is not as noticeable as suggested by my photographs. Bright lights tend to exaggerate problems.

The screws used to attach the latch and hinges extend completely through the sides of the case. While they provide good support, visual appeal is slightly diminished.

How the Watches Look in the Case

In order to accommodate different sized watches, Diplomat has chosen to replace the traditional grid system with one incorporating slots. Normally, in less expensive display cases, grid space is minimal. Large watches will crowd into adjoining grids, forcing the owner to leave a number of these grids empty.

The problem remains with this unit but because the background is of black foam, the dreaded ‘gapped tooth’ effect is minimized. Visually, this method works well for collections that include watches of varying size.

Durability

I feel this display case has been sturdily constructed. The box is fabricated from fiberboard, and Diplomat chose to utilize a glass display window.

The top of the foam lining is coated with a thin black material. Flexible, cloth covered inserts are supplied for each of the 18 slots. Over the six months, I have owned this box, these items have not noticeably deteriorated.

Lid Issues

Most display cases are equipped with a mechanism designed to hold the box’s lid securely in the open position. This element is incorporated into the hinges of more expensive units. Other boxes utilize a strip of cloth that stretches from the bottom half of the box to the top. Diplomat failed to include this feature. This increases the danger of the lid falling backward or forward, possibly damaging the glass window.

Overall Impression

While this display case is not perfect, it is solidly constructed, and I feel its slot system is ideally suited for watches of varying size. If you are looking for a good but inexpensive watch box, the Diplomat 31-586 is worthy of strong consideration.

Watch boxes are designed to satisfy the needs of collectors. In the poll below, I am attempting to ascertain the size most commonly required.

Display Case Sizes

Walter Shillington is an avid collector of mechanical watches. His reviews focus on inexpensive but often intriguing Chinese timepieces.

A Case for Your Watches

A large variety of watch boxes exists in the marketplace today. Those that travel with their timepieces will normally choose a small metal box lined with protective foam. These are typically windowless and can handle one or two watches.

Presentation boxes are designed for one item and are often included with the purchase of a new watch. When a timepiece is given as a gift, its value will be perceived at a higher level if enclosed within a presentation box. These containers are generally composed of cardboard, plastic and PU leather, or wood.

The most common form of watch box is the display case. These are usually constructed of wood and include a window through which the timepieces can be viewed. The interior of these boxes is divided into grids, each one with a pillow to which a watch can be strapped. Display cases, depending on their size, normally accommodate between two and twenty-four items.

Although internet-based stores provide photographs of the merchandise they sell, it is important to read the accompanying description. The width of each individual grid is used to judge the size of a watch that can be accommodated. If for example, the grids measure forty-three centimeters across, the box can comfortably fit small and medium-sized timepieces. Larger watches will fit, but the adjoining grids may not be usable.

Also important is the type of material used to construct the box and display window. In cases where this information is not included in the description, it is best to message the vendor for additional information. If you neglect this step, you might purchase a display case similar to the unit reviewed below.

Description

I purchased this watch box from Wish. It arrived well packed, on schedule, and priced at twenty dollars.

The VUD61A, weighing in at 583 grams (20.6 ounces), is the lightest watch box of my collection. It is approximately 25cm (10 inches) across, 20cm (8 inches) deep, and 7.6cm (3 inches) high. Each of its ten grids is 46mm wide, 94mm deep, and 40mm in height.

Unlike other watch boxes I have purchased, the grid dividers of this unit can be removed. This allows the user to modify the interior of the case, accommodating the display of a variety of items.

This case is composed of decent quality faux leather reinforced by cardboard. The interior of the box is overlaid by a velvet-like material. It comes with ten plastic pillows covered with the same material. The display window is made from soft and flexible plastic.

A metal latch is securely mounted to the front and, while the VUD61A’s hinge is hidden from view, I feel that it is composed either of folded cardboard or a strip of faux leather.

If you are uncomfortable with this type of hinge, you might be interested in my review of the Diplomat 31-586 watch display case.

The Manufacturer

I have not been able to identify the manufacturer but boxes of this type often originate from mainland China.

Specifications

Model: VUD63A

Place of origin: China

Gender: Male

Purchase price: Twenty dollars

Weight: 583 grams (20.6 ounces)

Width: 25cm (10 inches)

Depth: 20cm (8 inches)

Height: 7.6cm (3 inches)

Grid dimensions: 46mm by 94mm by 40mm

Number of grids: 10

Main construction material: Faux leather reinforced by cardboard

Interior trim: Velvet-like material

Composition of display window: Soft flexible plastic

Hardware provided: Metal latch

Visual Appeal

The box itself looks quite good but, unfortunately, my eyes are immediately drawn to the display window. This presents a cloudy and distorted view of the watches stored within. In my opinion, the manufacturer would have been wise to have upgraded the window to one composed of hard plastic.

The velvet-like interior lining is nicely done. The grid dividers, however, are far too flexible, tending to bulge and bend along their length. This problem could have been abated if the individual compartments had been sized to exactly fit the dimensions of the cushions provided. In this case, each grid would have been supported by the surrounding compartments.

Durability

The components used in the manufacture of this display case were not chosen for their sturdiness. The flexible plastic window can be easily damaged, and I feel that cardboard has no place in the construction of a box used to display valuable items.

The pillows are of standard size but lack sufficient padding. I have thin, sticklike wrists, and my watchbands are sized to match. Because of the minimal padding, my metal strap equipped timepieces cannot fit around these pillows. Those with larger wrists will not experience this difficulty.

The grid dividers are flimsy. Heavy watches will lean to the side, overcome the resistance of the divider, and protrude into the adjoining grid. If another watch occupies this space, it could become scratched. This box is best used for small-sized timepieces.

The faux leather, interior lining, and latch appear to be of good quality. To improve visual appeal, the outer covering of the rear of the box extends from top to bottom. Every time the display case is opened, a crease appears across the faux leather covering. Over a lengthy period of time, this will cause the material to split.

Overall Impression

I feel the VUD61A has no place in today’s watch accessory ecosystem. The box’s window provides a poor view of its contents, negating its use as a display case. While this unit could be utilized as a storage container, it is not suitable for the larger watches most often worn by men.

The type of watch box chosen is often decided by the physical size of the timepieces owned by the prospective purchaser. In order to help me select display cases for my reviews, please fill in the survey below.

© 2017 Walter Shillington